WEDNESDAY 30 March
Still waking early. Not sleeping that well but I never do at home anyway.
After coffee and bread at the hostel I went Back to find Dar Si Said. This time I didn't have to ask anyone, and took a different way and found it without too much turning around and doubling back. Today they were open. Unfortunately the music exhibit I thought they had was not there. Neither the Jewish history exhibit. I must have read an old review or totally switched this museum with another. Oh well. Still some cool old stuff and beautiful tile work, although like most everything in Morocco it's a bit rundown. I notice they spend a lot of time cleaning, yet everything is still dirty. Not complaining, just presenting the facts.
On my way back to the hostel I stopped for Bisara. Bisara is a dish made from fava beans, I don't know exactly the process but it seems like they cook it until it's mush. They serve it drizzled in olive oil and with cumin and salt. In the morning it's a runny breakfast soup you eat with bread. By the evening it's thicker and more like hummus. You eat that with bread too. Really you eat everything with bread here. It's good either way, but this was my first time locating it in time to try as a breakfast. I approve.
In Marrakech I'm getting Less Ali baba calls. I did make an old man with a beard and few teeth smile when, after one of the shop keepers called me Alibaba, I turned to him and asked "do they call you Ali baba too?"
For the past few days I've been eyeing this one stand that sells these leather "seats" - I think they're called poufs. Yesterday I walked in to sit and chat with the Berber guy who runs it. He told me about the different kinds and sizes, what kind of leathers they use, and even quoted me some prices, which is kind of rare. They usually hold out on the prices until you're ready to haggle.
I checked with another stand and it turns out he actually quoted me a decent price. So after the Bisara I went to meet up and see if I could get a special price, but his shop wasn't open yet.
Back at the hostel I told Zach that I was going to leave a day early and he was bummed for a second. I didn't ask for my money back. That made him less bummed. I went back out for a juice, some water and passed by the pouf guy but still he wasn't open. Back to the hostel to pack, then one last check with my pouf guy. I know there's a ton of places selling these things but I appreciated his zero pressure style and taking the time to explain stuff. He was just opening. Salaam Alachams all around "I'm glad you're open, Saha!" I say. We shook hands. He pulled a bunch of styles and sizes for me to consider, we haggled, and haggled some more, and eventually came to an agreement, although not as good of a deal as I was hoping for, but still good compared to another seller in another part of the medina. So I now own 2 small and 1 medium sized camel leather poufs with a cool design. Winning. Except I need to fit all my stuff in my bag cause I don't want to pay to check luggage on my 3 flights this week. I'll deal with that when I get to the hotel.
And I'm at the hotel. 5th floor with a balcony. Somewhat fancy but still a great deal. It's in the new city and it a much different than anything I've seen in Morocco. It looks like all new construction. Lots of big hotels, large avenues with gardens and walking paths in the middle. Kind of boring,
Another thing about new town is the women. This is by far the most "western" part of the country I've seen. I hear that Casablanca and Rabat are similar. In the medinas and smaller towns I visited there were attractive women, but not to the same degree, and they were generally in traditional clothes- which I do find attractive, but I saw more knees and elbows and even a couple of midriffs this afternoon than the past 2 weeks. What I'm trying to say is the women obviously feel freer here than the other places I visited. That is attractive.
I took a stroll around and did find lots of pretty Flowers, orange and olive trees. I can't get over the smell of the citrus blossoms everywhere.
Everywhere in Morocco you see Police and army guys with big Uzis (or whatever you call those big guns). In the new city there is also security guys that seem like real security and metal detectors at the entrance to hotels, restaurants and the mall. (Yes I visited the mall) It's interesting that I feel safer because of the guys with big guns everywhere. Interesting because I don't feel safe around cops back home.
What's called Moroccan salad is different every time. Not really a big deal just thought I'd mention it.
After 5 weeks of travel I'm all of a sudden getting a bit frustrated by Language today. Maybe it is time to go home.
Tisba allahcha
