FRIDAY 25 March
Arrived at the bus station around 7am. Caught the sun rise over the desert. You could see the mountains of Algeria. Waited for the cab driver asking for James Bond, my code name per Sara my host. The road was a normal paved road with desert on either side. We stopped at a hotel where I was picked up by Ali. Then we drove through the desert, unpaved roads, no markings, just make a left at that bush and bear right following a set of tracks already laid by a previous vehicle. No signs, no buildings. Just some tents along the way. It's crazy to think people know their way around here when the landscape changes.
I am in the Sahara. Dunes, sand, random palms, flies, lots of them, and a lot of spaniards. They are all here in Morocco escaping Semana Santa.
Moroccan time is like Santa Cruz time. "Soon come" as the Jamaicans say. I have done some waiting since I've been here. "Right away" isn't exactly right away. But no worries mon, I'm on vacation.
I was served breakfast when we arrived. Berber omelette which is eggs stewed in tomatoes in a tagine pot. Yogurt, bread, French toast, coffee and juice, then shown to my tent. I relaxed a little while the sun wasn't blaring yet. Then moved into the shade tent for more relaxing. I took a few strolls through the sand up and down dunes and back again. Drank some Tea in the Sahara. Relaxed some more. Ate lunch- canned sardines warmed over sliced tomato and onion in a tagine, bread, and mashed potatoes. Relaxed some more. I'm going to wait until later to ride the camels since it is pretty sunny right now and I'd rather do a sunset ride. Not sure of the temp but it is hot, not unbearable.
It's nice here at the spot I'm staying. There's only a few other tents occupied, and it feels like I have the place to myself for the most part. I've gone for a few walks through the sand to look at more sand, a few plants, a random bird or bird print in the sand, and these little black beetle looking bugs. One tried to get fresh with my toe but I declined.
And relaxed on the hammock, in the shade tents, and in the sun a little. Smoking the last of the Chefchaouen stash. Listening to music sometimes; Fela Kuti, Oumou Sangare, and Hiatus Kaiyote mainly. Great soundtrack. Also took a nap to Ahmad Jamal "Live at the Pershing" That just sounds good on any speakers, anywhere.
Ali and Saras Desert Palace is a collection of permanent large tents, maybe 12' by 12' or even larger. Nice big comfy bed, electricity, rugs and blankets lining the walls.
There are separate little straw shacks on permanent foundations each with a toilet, shower, and sink- electricity and running water. There are a number of shade tents and a recreation tent with books, games, and a few instruments.
The temp changed drastically throughout the day. The morning heated up quick, then stayed hot for a few hours. By early afternoon
the winds picked up and it was too cool in the shade. Before sunset the winds died down and it was really comfortable out in the sun. Then after sundown it was cold. I didn't have to wear everything I packed, so it wasn't too bad, but I was pretty layered up.
Taking good pictures here has been super easy. At least I think it is. Who needs all that fancy equipment. National Geographic should send me around the world to take photos.
Took an evening camel ride to the watch the sunset. Technically it's a dromedary not a camel since it had one hump. His name was Bob Marley, and I'm calling him a camel cause it's easier to type. It was a good experience. It wasn't the best thing I've ever done, but it was worth it for the bragging rights and some pictures (and not having to walk all the way to the spot) I liked watching the sand and sky change color as the sun moved. The mountain range that forms the border between Morocco and Algeria, only 30 km away, got lit up by the sun, so it was clearer and more defined than any other time of day. So I can say I've "seen" Algeria. Also the sunset caused shadows to appear on the sand because of the dunes, which was cool to watch. We listened to Fela Kuti, Quantic Soul Orchestra, and Bob Marley on my speaker. The camels didn't seem to mind. The ride was a little bumpy but totally bearable. Some people complain that they end up walking with the camel cause of their ass hurts. I could have rode for hours it seemed.
When I arrived back at the camp there was a fire going and we started jamming. There were a number of hand drums, and an electric guitar. I got a turn at both. There was a younger guy named Hassin that was working there who played some pretty good guitar- he played the right handed guitar left handed, so I called him Jimi Hendrix. He played a style that involved lots of single note lines, with lots of trills. Time signatures fluctuated between 9/8 and 12/8 for the most part. I didn't pay enough attention to the harmonic structure to describe it, but when I get home I know I can pull up examples to demonstrate the sound.
When it was my turn to play, as usual I couldn't really think of anything special, so I would play a few chords from a Fela tune and repeat them. We made up vocals, mainly repeating Africa and Sahara.
I tried my hand at some hi-life style broken chords and failed. Back to the drums, which I felt a little better about.
I have heard not to miss the stars in the desert. From where we were the stars where nice but nothing I have not experienced. I think because the moon is still mostly full the sky was a little too bright to get the full experience. I walked away from the camp a little to see if it helped, but it didn't. Also my camera doesn't do the best star pics, so you will have to take my word for it.
Is the single Italian mom who has 2 whiny girls trying to hit on me? I can't tell, but I'm really not interested. Not my kinda Milf. Nice lady though.
Onto bed, the tent is cold but it's warm under the blankets provided. Maybe I should have tried to get an Italian cuddle buddy :)
Tisba Allachay
