I have been waking up early pretty much the whole trip. Waking up early in a hostel is generally lame as most normal humans sleep in, and since I'm sharing close quarters with other humans I try not to be too annoying. This morning I just put on some dirty clothes and went for a stroll. Found a cafe to sit and have coffee while relaxing. Then went into the medina for a walk as they were just getting some stalls open. While less stimulating, it is a nice walk and I watched as they opened doors and transformed bare walls and tiny stalls into typical shops with colorful clothes, leather works, spices, produce and whatever.
You can smell the Trumps before you see them. I am now very familiar with the smell. It's really the only foul oder I have noticed. Usually it's spices, grilling meat, cilantro/onion/banana, hash wafting from an alley, or coffee.
After my stroll and a little breakfast at the Riad it was off to the hammam. Hammam means bath in Arabic. Every Muslim neighborhood must have 5 important things; a mosque, an oven, a fountain for hand washing, a Koran school for the kids, and a hammam.
It was a little less sauna than I had hoped for, and while they scrub you pretty good, you also lay on the floor- in what essentially is a community bath/sauna type room. So I feel kinda dirty and clean at the same time. It's one of those things I'm happy to do for the experience; people have been going to hammam for a long time.
It starts by stripping down to your underwear. Then you go into the room, which was a large room where multiple people could be washing at once... There was only one other guy in there while I was there. Men and women bathe at different times of the day. You hand the attendant your black soap which you purchase prior in the medina. He pours a few buckets of hot water on the floor and motions for you to lay on your back (the only word he used which I understood was "bien?" which he was asking <I assume> to make sure the temp was ok, he didn't say much else) and he goes to refill the buckets. Then he pours a bunch of hot water on me, first using a cup to direct it to individual areas, then a whole bucket or 2. After that he applies the black soap all over. Scrubs a bit, then fills up the buckets again and starts rinsing. Next a few little back cracks and arm stretches, then begins the scrubbing. They use a glove which is pretty coarse and rub down the whole body, scrubbing away the toxins, maybe some actual skin with it, using the same scrubber he's used on who knows how many people, but I'm more interested in the experience than worrying too much about cooties. Then I pulled out my shampoo and he proceeded to wash my hair, twice, with a lot of shampoo, like a lot a lot. Rinsing In between. Then a final rinse and we're done. Merci beacoupe i say.
I will try another in a different city to see if there are any differences.
The medina is not exactly as I pictured, I was expecting more of a flea market tent situation but this was all buildings, albeit pretty old ones, some people just had tables set up in an alley, some with an awning, but most had a space inside the buildings and sprawled out. Not a complaint, just sayin.
I cleaned up after the cleanup and then it was off to a Restaurant overlooking the blue gate. Food was ok, view was nice.
I remember that yesterday I tried something really good- sliced oranges with cinnamon.
Pretty simple and tasty. You can make it at home. Take an orange, peel it and slice it, then pour some cinnamon on it, then eat it. Come on you lazy bum, you probably have all the ingredients.
Ok There, we just shared the experience.
Communal cups. At most fountains there is a cup and it seems to be a communal cup. At a random sandwich stand in the medina last night I noticed multiple patrons and the cook drinking from one cup. I was told Moroccans are not as concerned about cooties as the westerners. I can see that.
Tonight I take the overnight bus to Merzouga where I will meet up with Ali and Sara to take me to the desert tomorrow night.
Before leaving I had a so so sandwich, then sat at a cafe enjoying coffee and great conversation with a gentleman named Ahmed and his friend a music teacher whose name I can't recall. Ahmed spoke English fairly well. His friend not so much, so we didn't talk too much about music. Ahmed spoke about how " it was difficult for Americans to travel under Bush because, well, he's Bush. Now Obama is a very smart president, a good man. But this Trump... will he win? Who do you vote for?" I say Bernie and he says, oh no, Bernie won't win, but I insist it's possible.
I mention how it is a reflection of our dwindling investment in a complete education that Trump can gain popularity, even within "a portion of a portion of the people" but he interjects, appropriately, that compared to Morocco we have an excellent education system in the US. Moroccans are taught by "superstition" he says. I took this to refer to the fact that they are taught Koran at a young age, and there is some arithmetic and what not, but generally he described it as primitive and most importantly the students are not taught to think. I believe I have an understanding of what he means.
The idea of thinking for oneself. Reading and studying in order to form one's own opinion. Not just following information by rote, but asking questions, looking it up, or going out and searching for yourself. That's a reason I am here, now.
I came to Morocco for many reasons, and as I stated previously I'm still learning why.
Yes this is a Muslim country, but it is a very unique country even in the Arabic world. They have a specific dialect and language here that differs from others. They are a very liberal country, albeit there is no doubt it is an Arabic country. While I am told there is alcohol here I have yet to see it for sale. Certainly not at restaurants. No pork of any kind that I have seen. Mosques and minarets everywhere you turn.
But women are out and about, I have seen them driving, I say hi and they say hi back ( salaam actually) they don't hide when men show up, some wear traditional headwear, some full vails, only a handful of full on burka action. teenage boys and girls are allowed to hang out, and I have not seen any instance of ill treatment. I'm sure it's not all unicorns and rainbows, but at least it ain't fire and stones, ya know?
Why come to a country and not talk to people? Reading websites and talking to family and friends I was warned to be wary of pick pockets and con artists. While I keep my wits about me, I am not gonna just keep to myself. I refuse to think every person is trying to pick my pocket or that they see me as a mark. Instead I try to say hello to everyone. If it doesn't feel right I do my best to remove myself from the situation. In reality I have met some of the kindest people here in Morocco. In the bus ride I sat next to Mohamed. Mohamed was a nice kid who gave me his number "just in case you need anything" That's the fourth Moroccan now to give me his number. Nobody in Spain or Portugal offered me their phone number. Do Moroccans offer their number cause they think something will happen? Because he has something to sell me? I don't think so. He just wanted to ensure I enjoyed my time here.
He suggested I read the Koran. I told him I actually picked up an English version in Spain so I could see what it says myself, not just go by hear say. I haven't gotten very far, but I was happy to tell him I already have a copy. We shared food, talked, it got a little political and religious but then we got to talking about music. He likes Jazz.
I am trying to be careful not to offend anyone but sometimes I'm not even sure what may be offensive.
Another observation - I am a minority here. I'm a white American Jew. It's a good thing to experience. In Spain and Portugal I did not notice it as much. I was still an outsider but I "felt" like I knew what was up all the time. Here I do not feel that way. I do not know what is up or down or all around... You know? I just go with the flow, ask questions when I can, and point and gesture when I can't.
Long bus ride. Drove through the snow covered mountains to the desert. Almost thought I was back in New Mexico. Sunrise over the desert from the bus was a nice way to start.
Ali Baba signing off
Tisba Allacha
