Granada to Ronda to Tarifa March 15;
My intention starting the trip to Morocco by way of Europe was I didn't want to fly straight to morocco and deal with jet lag and any of the other normal travel issues in a completely foreign land. I started by inching my way east in the states, then London where I can speak the language. Then Lisbon, a city I'm somewhat familiar with, onto Spain where I'm less competent than a child with the language but it's also not completely foreign.
I hope that was the right idea and that I feel completely better before disembarking from Tarifa to Tangiers on Friday. I'm definitely feeling better than when I woke yesterday, but I'm not a 100% yet.
The train to Ronda was pretty cool. Lots of rocky cliffs, more olive trees, fields of sheep, horses and cows. And gorges. It was a little overcast, and pictures from a moving train can only show so much. I had a whole train car to myself.
I took a brief stroll through Ronda. Stopped at a vista point and relaxed for a moment, then found a cafe for some coffee and croissant. The city center is cute and all, but after the cafe I started walking again and realized my nose and throat were burning, the car exhaust in the air is overwhelming. And I had to look at the ground to ensure I didn't step in the plethora of dog poo on the sidewalks. I can see coming back but staying away from the center. For those who enjoy hiking and camping this would be a wonderful destination.
Now I'm taking the train to Algeciras where I pick up a bus to Tarifa, my next destination. I have 3 nights booked so I have time to take a trip to the Rock of Gibraltar, and maybe another day trip. Also this will be my time to prepare for Morocco, pick up a ticket for the ferry, download some maps, and practice my Arabic. I know how to say thank you, you're welcome, lover, and good job ( Thanks Laura Korey)
The train ride from Ronda to Algeciras is over the top, breathtaking, majestic, use whatever words you want. Epic is accurate an accurate way to describe the todays travels. I was going back and forth one side of the train to the other, like a kid, in awe of the beauty. Trees, water, mountains, rocks, farms, animals, waterfalls.... Easily matches the beauty of driving through the sawtooth mts in Idaho, wind river reservation in Wyoming and the PCH in Cali. I could ride the train back and forth 10 times. I think this area deserves a car rental and some time if I get the chance in the future.
People actually hike this route and I think it takes 10-12 days which isn't crazy for some, but more than I could handle. I could see some hikers from the train. There's a couple guys who can't be much younger than me on the train staring at their laptops. I guess reruns of the Big Bang theory saved in the hard drive are more important than these views.
So I ran from the train to the bus just in time. The bus ride was along winding roads down a mountain full of green and gorges to the coast. We could see Africa across the Atlantic. Ain't gonna lie, I was pretty giddy. What an awesome travel day.
Then I arrived at the hostel. Fairly standard. Even a little rundown, but not bad. It's right near the beach, in a surfing town, so it's about what I would expect. From the roof terrace I get a pretty good view of the mountains of Africa. The wifi is terrible hence less updates while I've been here. Gonna go check out the beach at sunset.
I was offered hash 2 times in the hour or so I've been here.
Now I'm at a tapas spot. Good food and so cheap. Less than 10euro for 3 dishes and a glass of wine. I think my excitement is helping my stomach and energy, although I don't want to push it. I'm gonna take it easy tonight.
I don't understand why I get astonished stares all the time. Is it the beard? The hat? The hoody? Do they think I'm a refugee? I'm not gonna change anything, and I'm not interested in being an asshole while traveling, but I'm getting close to just asking someone "what?" next time I get stared at.
Tarifa is a typical beach town, right on the coast. It's not mobbed by tourists which I like. The beach is a 2 minute walk from the hostel. However it does differ from the standard US beach town a little. There's a small old town (like 1000 years old) with narrow alleys, and a couple cool old fortress/castles on the cliffs overlooking the water. I'm gonna see if I can climb one for the view.
I went to a "nice" restaurant for dinner, it was good, but not worth the money. I should have went back to the tapas spot.
March 16
Thought I was doing better. Then I wasn't. Not puking again, but stomach is definitely off and I'm pretty low energy. Decided to take a walk to the castle, get some sun and fresh air. It was originally a Roman settlement, then the Arabs came from Africa in 960 and built a tower. In the mid 1200's the Christians came and did their thing, turning it into a castle and fortress. It has great views from the top, and a museum, with lots of info about the history. This is the southernmost point of Europe (as opposed to Sagres which was the southWestern most point) so it has been an important location for whoever occupied the area.
I came back to the hostel afterwards cause I was feeling pretty off. Came to the conclusion I needed to lay off the "local" foods for a day and find something healthy.
Did a quick Google search and found an Eco health center just 3 blocks away. They have a small health food store, and a restaurant. Usually when I find a place I really want to hit they are closed, but I got here in time. I loaded up on some supplies and stayed for lunch. I ordered an Indian dish, Daal, which is like a thick whole lentil soup/stew with veggies and Indian spice. It was mild, and I know that it is a good choice when one's stomach is off. They served their dishes in stones with herb sprigs. Major points for presentation.
While eating I met a German couple Andre and Andrea (which made me think of Victor/Vitoria... ) who walked in and were interested in what I was eating. They sat down to eat and we chatted. They are kundalini yoga teachers (like my friend Naomi) who were in Sagres teaching classes. We had a nice chat sharing in the love of Sagres (they get to go 3 times a year to teach, I told them how jealous I am), talked about Santa Cruz, and I told them about where I had been and where I'm off to. Also suggested they eat at Chiccas next time they go to Sagres. They were also feeling a little sick. Andrea said something about how it's no fun to be sick while traveling, but I said "if I wasn't feeling ill I would not have searched out this spot, and we would not have met. It's not the destination, it's the journey".
Eventually made it back to the beach. Spent the afternoon watching kite surfers, then a little late siesta. The kite surfers where all over, it looked like the Albuquerque hot air balloon fiesta. I can't believe they didn't all mash into each other.
After that started talking about the healthy spot to some folks at the hostel and a couple of Americans came to join me for a second round. We had a decent meal and great conversation. One of the guys works in software development and is doing work while on his first trip overseas. He fell in love with Lisbon, specifically with Brazilian Farro dancing, and a girl who dances, which he wasn't expecting. But that's part of the fun of travel. Sometimes you don't know why until you get there. The other just turned 20, he's from Sacramento, and he's on his first trip overseas, trying to get into working on a farm in Spain, but got a job in Portugal.
I not one to take notes while having interesting conversations like we had that evening so this may be a little disjointed. We talked about Historical sites and why they are special. Did the ancient Greeks have a "unesco" kind of organization to preserve historical buildings during their time? One of the reasons I appreciate that these buildings are being preserved is we can really see and feel history in a way books or stories would never match. My mom says you can feel the ghosts. I told them how the museum in Belem outside of Lisbon had a lot of the archeological finds with signs that said "they might have used this tool for _____. They may have done _____ with _____." Basically, we're always guessing. What will people think in 1000 years when they find a cell phone, or a computer? Our paper and paintings may not last, hard drives won't matter.
Did they have technology we don't know about thousands of years ago? Then the conversation went into How have borders changed over the years? I kept having answers to questions (there's a video you can google -Europe borders 1000 years 3 minutes, fascinating) albeit sometimes with more questions. Made me realize I do more research than I thought. And I have some good experiences under my belt in the time I have spent traveling, reading, and watching documentaries.
Thursday- March 17
Tarifa has been fun, and a great town to relax in before leaving for Morocco.
This next part involves a little more complaining, but I want to stress that I came back to the hostel so happy I made the trip today.
Let's skip right to Gibraltar. Because as soon as I crossed the airstrip, just passed border control, I wished I HAD skipped Gibraltar.
Let me start at the beginning. On this journey through southern most points, and seeing Africa from Spain, I was excited to go to Gibraltar. It's technically in England. Although it's at the tip of southern Spain and jutting into the Mediterranean, it is a British territory. It's another spot you can "see Africa from". It's got mad history linking it to Northern Africa and yeah, I like that shit. The 20 year old named Adam from Sacramento joined me on the bus ride there. That bus ride involved going back to Algeciras which was one highlight of day to me cause I loved the ride down the other day.
You must go through border control to get to the Rock of Gibraltar since you're leaving Europe and entering Great Britain . And for my second time entering England I was given the third degree. This time they wanted to check me and my stuff. I think they were looking for drugs. I have some lavender pouches to keep my bags from smelling. They were curious about that. Screw you England. I had nothing.
After the border you cross an active airport runway. I didn't have to dodge any planes. Then you pass through the first entrance arch and I realized I made a terrible mistake. (Yo Speas, It's a trap!) the place is mobbed with tourists. I didn't do enough research about what goes on there. I just did a lot of walking in the sun, dodging people, (I also neglected to consider it is St Patties day in a British territory). I knew I didn't want to climb the rock, I was already hot and tired, and I didn't want to wait in a line to pay to get to the top. Adam was stoked to ride the gondola up to the monkeys (I think they are technically apes) so we parted ways. I found out later he didn't end up taking the gondola cause it turned out that was lame and expensive.
I saw the rock, I bought a magnet, I decided to leave.
Before leaving "England" I decided to get fish and chips since I didn't do it in London. Why? I have no idea, I've had plenty of mediocre fried fish and French fries before. There is nothing they could do to make it more exciting. I don't know what I was expecting. And due to the fact that they charge you in British pounds, it was pricey.
Due to this unnecessary step I missed the early direct bus back to Tarifa, so took a local bus to Algeciras and hung out at an Arabic cafe and had some mint tea and a snack waiting for the next bus to Tarifa. While drinking tea they were showing a nature special in the tv with the monkeys on it, so I saw the monkeys... Mission accomplished. Screw you England!
Then I had one last chance to ride the bus from Algeciras to Tarifa, and this time I had the clearest view of the African coast since I've been here. All in all it was a good trip, and I learned a little more about what I like and don't like. And I made good on my previous statement that I could do that bus ride multiple times.
After a few relaxing moments at the hostel I went out for some more awesome tapas, since this is my last chance for tapas in Spain for now. And again they were great, cheap, and I was able to speak Spanish the whole time. I am told there's a lot of Spanish spoken in Morocco, so I'll keep trying to improve.
Tomorrow I take the ferry to Morocco! I'm feeling a lot better, and I'm ready for this. Except I tried to get an idea of how to read Arabic today, and that shits insane. Hopefully there won't be too much in tangier and I can ease my way in.
Ciao
PS- I will try to edit this and other posts when I get to New York/Santa Cruz and can work from a computer and not feel like I'm "wasting" travel time. This includes adding more pics and links to videos and music.
