Train to Córdoba and a mellow night in Granada.
Before we get into this one, I should mention that I'm writing this journal on my phone. It's difficult to edit since I can't see the whole thing and I am updating my notes constantly, therefore sometimes the tenses may seem a little off.
Sunday March 13
Less than 4 hours sleep and I was up and in a taxi to the train station shortly after 6.
I had planned on waking up at 6, taking my time and walking the half hour or so to the station to catch a slightly later train. But since I was up I decided to skip the shower, grab my stuff and pay a few bucks for a taxi and I made it in time to grab coffee and a muffin at the station before boarding the 7am train. Train ride was quick and I was at the hotel by 8 am. Took a quick sink shower since they never let you check in that early. Then I left my bags with them and set out to explore.
There's a lot to see here, but there's 2 main sights, the Alcazar and the Mezquita. The mez is free tomorrow morning, so I booked it to the alcazar and got in before the crowds. I have heard lines can be crazy there so I think I made the right move. The alcazar is a huge castle with expansive gardens, Roman ruins, and a tower. Always climb the tower if you can, it's usually worth the view. I could see the castle was originally a Roman site, then Muslim, then the Christians came and turned into the huge castle that stands today. This is a common theme in this part of the world. Of course the Romans weren't the first to build, I believe they built over former "pagan" sites (I hate to use pagan to describe everybody else before the Romans, which is really what I am doing in this case, and I could be wrong about that. I welcome any corrections. I'm trying to look stuff up and educate myself about what I snoozed through in school, but I'm also trying to get out and see things and not stare at my phone)
Hung out there for a few hours, then checked out the royal baths, known as hammams in Arabic. (wish they were still in operation)
It started warming up, so I stopped back at the hotel to drop off the warm stuff and my room was ready!
This city has Roman, Arabic, and church influence all mashed up in a typical Spanish setting all around. I really like it. I am getting excited to get to Morocco now. I really love the Arabic architecture. And the closer I get to Morocco the more I see this influence.
I went for a walk on the Roman bridge, and along the river (notice a trend, I like climbing towers and walking along rivers) There's a Roman archway on this side of the river and a tower on the other side.
Then some lunch, my first sub par meal in Spain, but it's not Spain's fault it's mine. I was hungry and tired. The place I wanted to check out wasn't open. I broke my rule and ate at a place that had pictures of the food on the walls. I assumed I knew what I was ordering and I was wrong. It wasn't bad, just not what I was expecting or satisfying compared to everything else I have eaten here. after lunch I went back for a siesta.
I've been asked why I want to go to Morocco and it's a somewhat difficult question to answer but the further I get in the trip the more I think I understand. On the surface I want to travel somewhere that is not Americanized. Somewhere that doesn't have Burger King, Subway and Starbucks on every other corner. I like going places that retain their history. Also it seems like a good introduction to the African continent.
In light of recent events I am realizing that another reason is because I want to visit a Muslim country and Morocco is one that I am welcome in currently. The reason I want to visit a Muslim country is because I know, despite how they have been portrayed in the news, tv shows, movies, and even my Facebook feed, that the majority of Muslims are friendly and genuine people. Just like in other religions there are extremists and zealots, and the "sheep-le" who follow them. But I know deep down that those are the minority, no matter what we are led to believe. I'm on a journey to see for myself.
The Jews have been kicked out of almost every town they settled in at one point or another throughout history. The creation of a Jewish state was a very important and necessary step in our history. Consider just the past 200 years. The inquisition ended in 1834 and then the holocaust happened 100 years later. That's only a handful of generations ago and so many Jewish (AND Muslim) families were displaced or killed off. I lost family because of the holocaust. However no matter which side of the fence you stand on, it's fucked up that in order to create this Jewish state Muslim families were displaced and killed. I don't condone the hatred of Israel, but I understand.
By traveling to Morocco I hope to demonstrate that not all Americans are "fat, lazy, racist dicks". I know that Jews and Muslims have coexisted in Morocco for a very long time, and although I'm not a follower of the religion, I still represent the tribe.
Wow, enough of that. Where was I. Siesta. Then back at it again. This is a great city to walk around and get lost in. Tons of little alleys, old buildings, and somehow I keep ending up where I want to be with very little map reading. There is an old Jewish quarter which is basically the area I'm staying in. I will try to see the old synagogue that's here.
Today I saw a few processions of men in black robes walking really slowly . Some had a large crucifix and then there's kids following with these huge candles. Then there's families, and the tourists line the streets to take pics and videos. I snapped a shot for prosperity. Semana Santa is already taking over. Or maybe that's just normal.
After all that walking I got hungry and found a better spot to eat, right by the river, right as the sun was setting. I had the local specialty Salmorejo Cordobes, a creamy tomato soup without cream served cold and topped with bacon and pieces of hard boiled egg. Yummers. Then a salmon dish that was also really good.
Then I just strolled for a few hours and I'm going to bed early so I can get to Mez while it's free.
Monday March 14
You know the saying "“The best laid schemes o' mice an' men / Gang afta-gley." ? Me neither, but I do know "The best laid plans of mice and men always go awry".
I woke up around 4am with my stomach feeling weird, and within moments I was throwing up. And that went on for about 6 hours, I would go back to sleep for a half hour, then back to the bathroom floor. I'm assuming it was something I ate.
Hope I'm not pregnant! Ha. I wish you were here to hold back my facial hair. Ha. And dad, I saved you no chunks, big or small. Those were all the jokes I would have shared with you dear reader had you been there.
I joke because I want to assure you, as much as puking sucks, it's not the end of the world, and after struggling for a few hours I think I'm gonna be ok. The worst part was, I kept thinking "I'm gonna miss the Mez for free" And due to this I missed the Mez altogether. I'll check out some pics online or whatever. The perils of travel.
People always say "you can't miss _____ if you're in _____ " and guess what, I did. I still enjoyed Córdoba very much. What I did see was fascinating, and I had a nice room in a nice hotel for the morning I woke up sick (for instance, as I write this from Granada I am in a small room and the way the bathroom is set up it would be awkward to puke in the toilet, and if I were in a hostel that would have not been comfortable at all)
So now I'm sitting at the train station testing my limits with oj and a croissant and so far it's all good. Gonna head to Granada where I have a room booked. I'll try to get some sleep along the way in hopes I can make it out of my room today since I'm moving onto Tarifa tomorrow morning through Ronda.
Although I got to the station on time the train was sold out, so I had to wait for the next one about an hour later. I used the time to look up the schedule for the next leg so I can get tickets in advance this time. While I am waiting at the station 2 police just asked to see my passport. They were nice about it, but it was still a little stressful. Not that I'm doing anything wrong, it was just a little unnerving. I'm never comfortable around law enforcement.
The ride to Granada was a beautiful ride with rolling hills of olive trees and some fairly tall rocky mountain peaks. Those are the Sierra Nevadas.
By the time I got to the hotel I passed out for a bit. Then I forced myself to go out for a walk and look around and find some food. I found some kombucha along the way and I hope that helps my belly a little. I'm definitely low energy, and there's a tinge of nausea but I haven't felt the need to chuck anymore.
So I apologize but you won't be getting much from me regarding Granada. I've taken 3 or 4 pictures. At least this hotel has a nice rooftop balcony that I sat on for a while getting some fresh air and looking at the Alhambra.
Now its 2:30 am and I'm awake. Feeling a little better. I'll have an orange, update the blog, and try to get back to sleep.
Ciao
