After leaving Greymouth we stopped over in the gold mining
town of Ross. Got a little demonstration
at the information center on how to pan for gold (it reminded me of when there
was the Klondike Days festival in Edmonton).
Another stop en-route was in the middle of the Wild West in a “town”
consisting of the Bushman Center called Pukekura. The Bushmen Center consisted of a café
(called Puke Pub), gift shop and museum.
The museum tour started with a movie about the bushmen titled “When
Bambi was the Terrorist” which covered the history of living off the land in
the area, the over population of deer in the past and the evolution of kiwi
hunting. Not your average tourist
attraction, you could tell it was grassroots, but it did have a humorous sense
throughout. Check out my pictures and
you will see what I mean.
Onwards to Franz Josef we arrived reasonably early in the
day in order to make it for the half day glacier hike. From the time I booked my NZ bus pass I knew
the glacier hike was one of the things I really wanted to do. I had heard mixed reviews about the half day
hike (many saying it was not worth it and to go for the full day) but it turned
out to be, in my eyes, a great option.
Just barely making it to the hostel I ran around getting my things
together for the tour. We were
instructed to bring water, a snack, sunscreen and movable/breathable/water
resistant pants. I also wrapped my
passport and other contents of my purse in a plastic bag to keep them watertight
on the hike. At the tour shop we were
given jackets, pants, hiking boots, and crampons (metal extensions which go on
top of the boots to dig into the snow).
Ready and set to go I stopped for a quick photo opportunity at outside
the tour bus with two other Canadians.
The three of us joked about our fascination with hiking the glacier –
obviously we had all seen snow before (pne girl was from Winnipeg the other
from Toronto). Anyhow, the tour took us
on a short drive to the park then down a rain forested paved path until the
glacier came into view (it started raining quite heavily and I was thankful I
had decided to bring warm waterproof pants with me from the tour company. Another 45 minute walk through the rocky
terrain was stunning with full view of the glacier formations and
waterfalls. We finally reached the foot
of the glacier (terminal) and crossed the safety zone where people are only permitted
with a guide and learned how to attach our crampons to our boots. The hike was fairly steep at first and I as I
paused to take in the view I realized just how dangerous this could potentially
be with the cliffs and rocks below.
Turns out this was the most difficult/dangerous part of the hike to
which we were informed after we reached the top of it. The rain started to let up as we meandered
through the accumulation zone past sections of vivid blue ice and through the
deep crevasses. We hiked further in and
around the snow caves and up the snowy staircases. There were points of time we were instructed
to put our cameras away and hold onto ropes with both hands as we scaled
carefully around the side of the glacier.
Reaching three quarters of the way up at the summit we took in the view
and took a moment to appreciate the climb itself. Although the climb itself was enjoyable, it
was in this moment that the view became even more spectacular. Suddenly the wind came up and rain started
down heavily and we began our decent.
The way down seemed quicker that the way up (probably due to less
picture stops and the rain). I could not
have been more excited to jump onto an old tour bus out of the rain to refuel
with water and a chocolate and apricot muesli bar.
After returning to the town of Franz Josef, and stripping
off the wet gear we headed straight for a quick bite to eat and then off to the
hot pools before they closed for the evening.
What a nice way to end the evening – I would highly recommend indulging
in the hot pools after a day on the glacier.
All warm and cozy I slipped under the covers in my bunk and drifted off
to sleep.
The next day at 7:30 AM I boarded the bus for Wanaka. Although not a required top en-route with the
bus schedule I had the choice of either three nights in Franz Josef or two in
Wanaka on my way to Queenstown. The two
days in Wanaka were really nice and I am so glad I stopped there. There were two buses departing Franz Josef travelling
together until the Wanaka turnoff. Our
driver had no idea what was going on (he claimed it was his first time but
since this trip I have spoken with a few others who travelled on different
days) but it was fine we just followed the Queenstown driver and on and off the
bus whenever they did. We stopped just
outside of the Fox Glacier at Lake Matheson for a breakfast stop. The lake is one of the most photographed
places in New Zealand known as “Mirror Lakes.”
The Southern Alps (including Mt. Tasman, Mt. Cook and Fox Glacier) are
perfected reflected in the lake below and frame the view from the rain forested
walk and café. This is one place I could
have spent hours just looking out at but with no accommodation nearby and no
car of my own it was onward to the next stops (first at a coastal beach with
figures resembling Inusik but with apparently no meaning and secondly at
Knight’s Point for a look out at a seal colony). The views through this region were absolutely
incredible with the Southern Alps framing the final decent into Wanaka
surrounded by both Lake Hawea on the left then Lake Wanaka on the right.
After checking into the hostel I headed to the lake front to
take in the beautiful day as the forecast was not looking sunny or overly warm
for the next day. I was amazed at how few
people were out on the shores. I had
images of the backed shoreline of Sylvan Lake each summer and Sylvan doesn’t
even begin to compare with Wanaka. It
was nice and serene to walk along the water and take in the afternoon. My allergies had other plans though (sadly)
so I headed back to the hostel for a shower and clean clothes and then off to
the grocery store for a much craved helping of veggies. I spend the evening making in the bright and
spacious kitchen preparing a towering salad and then retiring to the movie room
to watch “Nacho Libre” as I recovered from the outdoors. The next days I spent many hours exploring
Wanaka on foot. All along the main
street I stumbled upon “The Millennium Project” a series of stones noting dates
significant dates throughout history.
Something unexpected and refreshing: note in the pictures the amount of
history about Scotland as the Otago region has a strong population of
immigrants from Scotland. You could
spend the entire afternoon taking in the Millennium walk and a moment to pause
every few stones to take in the view.
Beyond this I wandered past the main beach along the Waterfall Walkway
and onto the Ironman Track following the shores of Lake Wanaka. I cannot say enough to describe the view and
the peace and tranquility of the 4 hour walk.
Although not a difficult walk the numerous hills and cliffs did offer
provide good exercise and yes the view was improved by climbing for it. After
making it back into Wanaka I decided to treat myself to a refreshing glass of
Otago Rose and a chocolate croissant from the Ardmore Café before heading off
to Queenstown. An off the beaten path
destination that was truly rewarding and one of my favorite places so far; as
the many T-Shirts and the tourist shops say “I Heart Wanaka.”
