Expect The Unexpected

Photos: Back to Auckland

courtneycarmen — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:30:00 GMT

The Northland/Bay of Islands – Ninety Mile Beach, Sand Boarding, Cape Reinga, and SKYDIVING!

courtneycarmen — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:11:00 GMT

What I really wanted at this point was to travel to the north via any other method than bus – I am soo sick of coaches – so a car or campervan would have been ideal. In the end I booked another bus but this time I decided to go Naked. What I mean is rather than buying a connection through my tour company I booked the Naked Bus which is a low cost bus service without all the extras the backpacker buses offer – no commentary, or activity and hostel bookings. I didn’t need assistance in booking things and I was quite happy to sit and enjoy the view without commentary for once. Leaving the retreat center with the sunrise I boarded the coach and took the last seat available. To my surprise the coach was really luxurious with one leather reclining captain’s chair on either side of the bus (it wasn’t the regular bus they use). In Paihia the first day was spent exploring and enjoying the beach in the stunning Bay of Islands. The second day was an amazing trip to the top of NZ also the most sacred place for the Maori people. It was an action packed 12 hour trip starting at 7am with the best driver I have had here in NZ. He was soo energetic and you could really tell he truly enjoyed his job as his excitement was contagious. Leaving Paihia we headed to the Kauri forest for a morning walk learning of the Maori spiritualism and creation beliefs. Onwards from here we drove along the famous Ninety Mile Beach, got out and played around the beach and taking beautiful photos of the Tasman Sea and surroundings. After the beach we headed to the sand dunes and went sand boarding down the 82meter dunes – what a rush! It felt like we were in the desert somewhere far away from NZ. Thankfully it wasn’t too hot or I am sure the trek up to the top of the dunes would have been much more difficult. Of course the views were stunning! From here we headed to a secluded beach on the Pacific Ocean side for a swim to wash off the sand and have lunch before reaching the sacred ground. Cape Reinga itself is a very special place, you can feel it when you enter the walkway and wander along the pathway to the lighthouse. It is here the Maori believe the spirit goes when they pass away. You can also clearly see the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean from this viewpoint. On the way back to Paihia we drove along Ninety Mile Beach for a second time (only two days a year where the tides are such that it is possible) and enjoyed the best "fush and chups" in NZ from a little shop in Mangonui!

My final day in the Bay of Islands was spent looking around the little shops, and the morning market then I headed to the information center knowing I wanted to either paraglide or skydive. The paragliding was not available so that made my decision very easy and within 5 minutes I was in the skydiving shuttle signing my life away. It is hard to explain the way it feels to skydive - I was filled with excitement and nervous anticipation of what was to come. After getting all suited up I got in the small plane with just enough space for the pilot, camera diver, myself and my tandem jumper. We flew for about 15 minutes over the stunning Bay of Islands. They say the only way to see the area is by sailboat but I would have to say from the air was amazing. The first moment as we were jumping out of the plane and facing towards the earth I was absolutely terrified – but this only lasted a second or two -before I knew it we were upright and doing a few spins freefalling from 12 000 feet. The camera guy was in my face trying to get me to blow kisses to the camera and make faces but I was more interested in checking out the view. Before I knew it the parachute was open, there was a sudden calm and silence as we floated slowly to the ground. I was soo excited after jumping it was such a rush but at the same time it put me in this weird altered stated – maybe just shock or disbelief of what I had just done. It really wasn’t scary at all and I would love to do it again someday. I met a girl in Queenstown who kept saying that the photos and dvd’s were really necessary since it is such a surreal experience it is hard to believe you actually did it. So true! My trip to the Northland was absolutely memorable and a great way to spend some of my last days here in NZ. That’s right….I am coming back to Canada on March 16^th!!! It’s like they say when you are done – you know you are done. Of course there are things I haven’t seen but you can never see everything – it also leaves me more to explore when/if I return. I am looking forward to the comforts of home again, a routine and not living out of a backpack for a while. I know I will travel again – this is only the beginning – but for now there is no place like home :)

WWOOFing in Albany – Wellpark

courtneycarmen — Tue, 9 Mar 2010 21:10:00 GMT

My second visit to Auckland marked the finishing point of my bus loop with Magic. On the way from Mt. Maunganui we stopped along the way for a walk in the woods and lastly at the Rose Gardens in Parnell before reaching the downtown core. I didn’t stay long as quickly boarded the Northern Express Bus to travel to Albany (a northern suburb of Auckland). A short walk down the hill and through the bushes I found reception and was shown around property and wellness center. As I arrived they were in the process of moving the WWOOFer’s to different accommodation due to an in-session retreat arriving over the next few days. I ended up sharing a shed with two other girls down at the bottom of the hill. It was very basic but not so bad; the bed itself was quite comfortable and after grabbing extra blankets for the second night I was enjoying our little hideaway. My work here was laidback and different each day ranging from cleaning retreat rooms, public areas, event planning and helping out in the kitchen. In my free time I attended a yoga class, swam in the pool, watched Alice in Wonderland in 3D, and joined the community events including Hare Krisha night, pizza night, documentary movie nights, and WWOOFer appreciation night (Thank you Tony!). It was a nice and easy place to WWOOF and a great sorted for my last big trip – The Northland.

Photos: Mount Maunganui

courtneycarmen — Mon, 8 Mar 2010 23:01:00 GMT

If I were to settle in NZ long term it would be in Mt. Maunganui :)

courtneycarmen — Mon, 8 Mar 2010 16:12:00 GMT

When a place just feels right you – you know it. I didn’t specifically seek out visiting Mt. Maunganui but I am so glad I did! It was the final required stop on my bus loop back to Auckland and due to the schedule I could spend just one night here or at least three – so I opted for three nights so I could explore the area for more than just one evening. By the second day I had extended my stay for one more night forgoing one night in Auckland before my next prearranged WWOOFing position arrival date. It all comes down to lifestyle – each morning I climbed to the summit of Mount – WHAT AN AMAZING VIEW!!!!

Long stretches of white sand beaches, lush green forest, extensive trails, sailing boats, parasailers, surfing, cafes, and boutique shops - to make this even more live-able located within minutes of the neighboring city of Tauranga (the 5^th largest urban area in NZ). In addition this very popular tourist and premier surfing destination would be an excellent choice for a Hospitality Professional. A number of times I have found myself thinking about Tofino as it has a lot of similarities to this area. The view for one, the laid back feel, the beaches, water shortage, tsunami warning, beach-fires, and one night having pizza on the beach reminded me of the good old days when I would have Surf-Side Pizza delivered to Chesterman Beach. I could even picture old friends and colleagues bringing pizza down the beach to locals and guests alike. Oh the memories!!! I always said I would enjoy Tuff City more if it were only a little closer to a city. So there you have it – Mt. Maunganui an unexpected delight and enjoyable stopover on my way north.

Photos: Hastings

courtneycarmen — Mon, 1 Mar 2010 23:14:00 GMT

WWOOFing in Hastings – The Chef’s Garden

courtneycarmen — Mon, 1 Mar 2010 15:03:00 GMT

Arriving in Hastings after my last bus day for a while I was picked up by my host Clyde and driven to the farm just on the edge of the city. The morning was spent driving through familiar North Island scenery stopping at Mt. Bruce along the way (a conservation center for Kiwi birds).

Upon reaching the farm, or more specifically The Chef’s Garden at Epicurean, I was introduced to some of the employees and “The French Invasion” – the other 12 WWOOFer’s who happened to all be from France. WWOOFing International is an organization throughout the world where organic farming experience, along with room and board are provided to volunteers in exchange for their help. I had heard about it before arriving in NZ and then along the way heard good stories from numerous travelers along the way. Excited to get off the tourist route I was given the choice between the different on-site trailers and tents and actually able to unpack my backpack for more than a few nights. I shared my trailer with one of the French guys and another girl from Canada. I arrived around 3pm and spent the afternoon exploring around the farm with a quick walk into Hastings only minutes away. Dinner was a group effort where those who didn’t cook were then on cleanup duty. What a luxury to have a large chiller full of freshly picked veggies and a garden surrounding you ready to be picked if you wanted more. Moreover, a pantry full of all sorts of organic dry goods. There were of course a few things needed from the grocery store which rounded out our nicely stocked kitchen. Needless to say I ate well during my stay.

My first day working began with irrigating the greenhouses, weeding areas with a knife (weed by weed) and picking, cleaning and packing veggies for the Sunday Farmer’s Market (turnips, green beans, beets, and onions).

Sunday began the same as it would for the following three by heading off to Hawke’s Bay Farmer Market (literally across the road from the farm). It was a beautiful sunny day and after strolling around to each vendor we spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon sitting in the shade in the center of the market and listening to the live music. In the afternoon we all headed off to Havelock North to climb Te Mata Peak. The stunning views from the peak stretched the entire peninsula from Napier Bluff to south of Cape Kidnappers overlooking out over the Pacific Ocean and the inland farmland and rivers to the west.

As a WWOOFer I worked three and a half work days with three and a half off for exploring. My second day of work I began harvesting, washing and packaging organic salad for restaurants and groceries stores throughout Hawke’s Bay and as far away as Wellington. I didn’t do much else for my remaining time at the farm but that was fine with me. At first it was difficult to keep up with the orders due to a big event at one of the wineries on one of my first days brought large demand and I was working alone that day – thankfully other staff members were often willing to lend a hand to make the deadlines for the courier. Being thrown in the fire or so they say was a good experience - I felt the satisfaction of working with a team to get things done and in seeing the behind the scenes of what happens to produce before it reaches a restaurant. More than anything I felt my time at the farm was an excellent opportunity to learn how to learn again. I was emerged in a completely different workplace, met new people and new skills (quite a departure from working at the same place for several years knowing it inside and out). Although harvesting did get a little bit tedious, I was able to spend parts of the day in the beautiful sun, cool off in the shelter while I cleaned and treated the lettuce and mesculin in the three outdoor bathtubs and finally package the finished produce in the warehouse. I started to get into a flow by the middle of the second week and felt it was a shame I was about to leave so I extended my time to a three week term.

My free time was spent hanging out at the farm, playing the NINJA game, cooking, heading to the river and ocean for a swim, biking and jogging.

One of my favorite days was biking from Hastings to Napier and back through the countryside past vineyards and orchards. We stopped at one fresh fruit store along the way which was sooo refreshing. We explored Napier wandering along the Marine Parade and had lunch in Clive Square. Before heading back to Hastings we went to the Wine Center were you can go on a virtual tour of regional wineries.

The Art Deco Festival was another highlight. I attended one event in Hastings were they did a fashion show of different deco “frocks” and then on the Saturday went to Napier where I met up with some former WWOOFer’s in Napier where we took in the costume completion, roamed the busy streets, and sat at the bar cooling down in style away from the sun.

Farm life has been fun and relaxing now I am off to Mt. Maunganui for a few days then off to the North Shore of Auckland where I will be WWOOFing again. This time I will be working on the gardens at a yoga retreat. Pictures to follow soon! I promise J

Photos: Welly - 2nd Time Thru

courtneycarmen — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:11:00 GMT

Due North – (Christchurch to Wellington)

courtneycarmen — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:11:00 GMT

Heading north to get my hands dirty and become more of a traveler than an tourist. I really want to experience more authentic Kiwi culture. Although the tourist track has been lovely and the infrastructure is certainly in place for tourism I need to do something different for a while. I have only met a handful of New Zealanders as most people I meet at the hostels are travelers themselves. Not a day goes by I have not met and wished a new group of German travelers on their way. No offense to you Germans out there - you know there are millions of you exploring the world – which is thanks in large part to the relatively long vacation time allotted by their government among other factors.

Anyways, we drove from Christchurch to Kaikoura (known for dusky dolphins and whales). It was a really overcast cold day in Kaikoura so I don’t have much to report. I already had my dolphin experience in Akaroa so I wasn’t overly excited to get out and explore. I did walk along the coast and along the main street. Small tourist hub full of tours – yes I am getting tired of this.

Onwards to Wellington we stopped at a seal colony just outside of Kaikoura and continued on along the coast and the beautiful Marlborough Sounds. A truly stunning landscape just as beautiful as the first time I saw in en-route Nelson. I will definitely return at a later date. The ferry from Picton offered beautiful blue skies which met us on the other side upon arrival in Wellington.

Now my first time through Wellington I was not overly impressed. This time for some reason (blame it on the weather since I was able to see the sun and it was not really that windy) I really enjoyed it. It was by all means more familiar which meant I was not lost every minute navigating through a new place. I also spent some time shopping and enjoying the cafes. Cuba Street in particular I enjoyed along with Lambston Quay and the Civic Center which are becoming party central with the NZ Seven’s Rugby Tournament over the next few days. That’s all for now and It might be a while before next update. I have a ton of pictures and will post when I can (it might be a while though). I hope these last few recent posts should keep you occupied for a bit. Cheers!

Out on Onuku Farm, Dolphins and a Taste of a French Seaside Settlement (Akaroa)

courtneycarmen — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:10:00 GMT

I decided to take a side trip on the Banks Peninsula an hour and a half drive from Christchurch to Akaroa. We stopped a few times on the way first at Kaitorete Spit and then at the Hilltop Café for a birds-eye view of Akaroa. I was picked up in the farm truck shortly after arriving in the town and continued the winding drive for 30 minutes before reaching the farm. One of the most beautiful places in NZ and extremely secluded I settled my home for the next two nights; a small rustic hut. Breaking from my routine of large busy hostels and regular tourist activities spent the afternoon with a group of other travelers as we headed down (and I mean almost straight down) to a private beach. Spent a hours lounging, reading and chatting. Check out the picture of the Paua caught by another farm stay guest – it is a specialty in the area. As it got chilly we started the trek back to the huts as a strong southerly came in. The clouds were moving so quickly (my pictures show the before and after quite clearly).

Bright and early six of us set out for Dolphin swimming with the farmer. I have wanted to swim with dolphins for years and when I was planning to come to NZ knew I would do it at some point but wasn’t sure when. When I discovered Akaroa I knew it was where I wanted to do it especially after learning it is home to the Hectors (smallest, rarest in the world and only found in NZ). With wetsuit on, gear, water and camera in tow we headed in the back of the farm truck down the hill to the water. We spent the entire morning, from 8am until noon, searching the waters for pods of dolphins in the wild. At first we saw several dolphins for a few minutes then they headed off until there were about 10 surrounding the boat ready to play. We jumped in and let the dolphins surround us and swim around. After a while the dolphins all headed off and we went back searching for another pod. Mid-way through we made our way along the coastline and stopped at some caves for a quick snack and cup of tea to warm up. Back to the waters we swam with dolphins another few times before heading back to the farm. I absolutely loved this experience and doing it off the beaten path made it that much more special! The afternoon was spent going from hammock to hammock, relaxing and taking in the farm’s million dollar views with sheep grazing on the grass around me.

After two days on the farm I was given a ride back to Akaroa to explore for a few hours before my bus arrived to take me back to Christchurch. A nice little seaside town originally settled by the French. I wandered around the town and shops before sitting on the harbor to have fresh blue cod fish and chips for lunch. The return to Christchurch was scenic with a stop at a cheese factory followed by a fruit and veggie roadside stand. Back in Christchurch I have arranged a WWOOFing project on the north island and will be heading there soon to get further off the tourist track. It might be a while before next update – but these last few recent posts should keep you occupied for a bit. Cheers!

Southern Loop of Architecture and Alps (Dunedin to Christchurch)

courtneycarmen — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:08:00 GMT

Edinburgh of the South = the place I caught up on much needed sleep! (Dunedin)

I don’t even remember the drive from Queenstown. From the moment I boarded the coach until we reached Dunedin I was dead asleep. Waking up nicely refreshed I headed into my hostel in the rainy city center. The highlights of Dunedin included the architecture brought to NZ by the large number of Scottish immigrants. I managed to capture a few photos and get back into the picture taking mode. Before leaving Dunedin our tour topped at Baldwin Street (famed as the steepest urban street in the world). A nice change from the generally lazy coach rides I got a bit of exercise climbing to the top and then quickly descending to the bottom. Our next stop was at the Moeraki Boulders along the coast before I jumped off in Oamaru and the coach continued onto Lake Tekapo.

Penguin Capital and Whitestone Buildings (Oamaru)

I really didn’t know what to expect here but hearing it was known for a penguin colony I had to stop here for my dear friend (they even had a cheese factory here Cathy you would have been in heaven). Oamaru did not disappoint and the buildings were a striking contrast to the dark materials used throughout Dunedin. Local to the area, and now known as Oamaru Stone, the streets of this quaint town are lined with dramatic white buildings accented by colorful flower beds. A thriving town in the Victorian Era – Oamaru reminded me of summers spent at Klondike Days back in Edmonton. By Queenstown I was getting tired of the tourist traps and packaged tours and did not bother to arrange a tour at the seal colony. Turns out it wasn’t really necessary as I was able to view a few Blue Penguins on the beach down just down the street from my hostel at dusk as they came in for the night. They were sooo incredibly tiny and cute making their way up the much larger rocks (in comparison to their size) after a long day of swimming in the ocean.

BBQ Time (Lake Tekapo)

From Oamaru the next day we headed to Lake Tekapo with a few picture stops on the way to catch images of Mt. Cook (highest mountain in Australasia). Our driver organized a group BBQ and everyone got together to prepare and enjoy a traditional Kiwi BBQ at the lakefront (complete with Hokey Pokey Ice Cream – vanilla with toffee). A fun filled night playing games (one with an empty wine box), views of the lake, mountains, red sunset and the stars. Next time I would stay longer in this spot.

The Most English City Outside of England (Christchurch)

From Lake Tekapo we drove through the plains of Canterbury Plains (flattest part of NZ) into the bustling city of Christchurch. It took quite awhile to reach our hostels due to The World Buskers Festival going on in the city center. Alive and busy with festival goers the city center is easy explored on foot, on the bus or tram loops. The prominent Cathedral stands in the center of the activity surrounded by cafes, restaurants and shops. Steps out of the center are numerous parks and gardens and the Avon river which you can hire a punt to travel along the seaway. A change from the many small towns on the south island and it could be a nice very place to live. For some reason I was not overly excited to be in the city again. Strange I know but the beauty of the rural scenery seemed to be missing. I didn’t spend much time in Christchurch (or “Chch” as the locals call it) but used it as a base to plan a trip to the Banks Peninsula, arrange a WWOOFIng placement on the north island, and catch up on laundry.

Believe the Hype (Queenstown)

courtneycarmen — Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:07:00 GMT

For those who are on a tight schedule Queenstown is the one place many are planning to spend a longer time in. Anyone I know who has been to NZ before as raved about Queenstown so my expectations about my time there were very high. Getting in the first night I arrived at my hostel (apparently rated number one hostel in Australasia last year) and was escorted to my room and shown the facilities. Yes to all you “Wick” people reading this – I was roomed at a hostel! Now I know not everyone was roomed (probably only 45% were) but I was certainly not expecting it. A big industrious hostel it was and a buzz with the Queenstown party vibe (I would have loved this when I was 19 but although fun for a night it was not exactly my scene). I wandered around the town for the first night then settled in for the night chatting with the many people who gravitated to my dorm. Since it was raining the day I arrived I didn’t explore much of the town so the next day I spent wandering around. Queenstown is really not very big but it does have tons of little shops and cafes. I found that although there are loads of activities you can do in Queenstown it didn’t feel as pushed on you as other places like Rotorua. The main streets were alternating between tour operators and souvenir shops but it was fairly easy to avoid being pulled into the overly commercial side by simply not entering the stores. In Rotorua I felt there were people out everywhere advertising loudly the activities you could do along with large signs every few meters of tourist attractions. Queenstown itself in this sense was more my style. I indulged in a lavender hot chocolate in a harbor view café and spent the afternoon using their free wifi. By early evening I finally caught up with the ladies I had met in Greymouth at the brewery tour and we went out for drinks and dinner. What a nice evening of making our way from place to place around town, good company, good pizza and good wine. After heading back to my dorm I discovered around 20 people on my balcony and more scattered throughout my room. It was about 11:30pm by now and they were all heading out to the bar. I decided to join them and we went to the seemingly only nightclub according to the long term residents of my room and danced for hours.

The next few days were spent wandering around with every corner revealing a new treasure (lounging areas by the lake, the mountain range in the background, and numerous secluded parks everywhere I looked). There was a summer festival, market and live music on the harbor so I wandered through and took in the show. For lunch one day I headed to the infamous “Fergburger” and although I waited until 2pm in hopes it wouldn’t be too busy I still was told there would be a 30 min wait after ordering it. This place is uber busy and it is not like they need to have longer hours as they are open daily from 9AM all the way through until 5AM so they are almost never closed. The wait was worth it though – I didn’t order fries as I heard many people don’t even touch them since the burgers are so big. Big and filling I had the Southern Swine – mmm mmm good. If I go back there I want to try the Thai Burger. At one point I was hoping to organize a trip to Milford Sound since this was not included in my bus pass. Every tour operator in Queenstown markets their slightly better trip than the next guy to Milford. After hearing the day trip was quite an exhausting day and almost to the point it was not enjoyable I was intrigued by the overnight cruise option. Yes it was pricy but this is one of the wonders of the modern world and a heritage sight. I wanted to do it right. Unfortunately the trips were full by the time had inquired about booking and I no longer wanted to half do Milford with a day trip so I decided I would skip it for now and return in April. At that point it should be more enjoyable and less crowded. So no Milford for me this time around – it’s all good – just gives me something to look forward to later! The final day I explored along the lake and walked to the nearby town of Frankton. It was an hour and a half stroll along the water with view of the Remarkables Mountain Range on a nice sunny morning. Ahh how relaxing!!

The four nights I stayed in Queenstown were sleepless. Now I understand it is a party town but I do like to be able crawl into bed before 3am and get a good night sleep (on at least one of the nights). Next time I will book a smaller hostel out of the main area. I took a bit of an unintentional break from my camera in Queenstown. The only shots I have are on the final night as the sun was setting. For some reason I never seemed to have my camera on me during most of my outings. Not a total loss when it all comes down to it (there are plenty of pictures of Queenstown on the internet already for anyone who wants to see what it is like). In the end a picture will never do the scenery the justice it deserves as it is one of those places that are surreal and seemingly more like a painting or backdrop than reality. Overall I really enjoyed my time in Queenstown but really noticed the difference the people you surround yourself with can change the experience. Believe the hype = Queenstown is FAB!

Photos: Queenstown to Picton

courtneycarmen — Tue, 2 Feb 2010 18:45:00 GMT

Photos: Greymouth to Queenstown

courtneycarmen — Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:23:00 GMT

The View Is Always Better When YOU Climb For It! (Greymouth to Wanaka)

courtneycarmen — Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:20:00 GMT

After leaving Greymouth we stopped over in the gold mining town of Ross. Got a little demonstration at the information center on how to pan for gold (it reminded me of when there was the Klondike Days festival in Edmonton). Another stop en-route was in the middle of the Wild West in a “town” consisting of the Bushman Center called Pukekura. The Bushmen Center consisted of a café (called Puke Pub), gift shop and museum. The museum tour started with a movie about the bushmen titled “When Bambi was the Terrorist” which covered the history of living off the land in the area, the over population of deer in the past and the evolution of kiwi hunting. Not your average tourist attraction, you could tell it was grassroots, but it did have a humorous sense throughout. Check out my pictures and you will see what I mean.

Onwards to Franz Josef we arrived reasonably early in the day in order to make it for the half day glacier hike. From the time I booked my NZ bus pass I knew the glacier hike was one of the things I really wanted to do. I had heard mixed reviews about the half day hike (many saying it was not worth it and to go for the full day) but it turned out to be, in my eyes, a great option. Just barely making it to the hostel I ran around getting my things together for the tour. We were instructed to bring water, a snack, sunscreen and movable/breathable/water resistant pants. I also wrapped my passport and other contents of my purse in a plastic bag to keep them watertight on the hike. At the tour shop we were given jackets, pants, hiking boots, and crampons (metal extensions which go on top of the boots to dig into the snow). Ready and set to go I stopped for a quick photo opportunity at outside the tour bus with two other Canadians. The three of us joked about our fascination with hiking the glacier – obviously we had all seen snow before (pne girl was from Winnipeg the other from Toronto). Anyhow, the tour took us on a short drive to the park then down a rain forested paved path until the glacier came into view (it started raining quite heavily and I was thankful I had decided to bring warm waterproof pants with me from the tour company. Another 45 minute walk through the rocky terrain was stunning with full view of the glacier formations and waterfalls. We finally reached the foot of the glacier (terminal) and crossed the safety zone where people are only permitted with a guide and learned how to attach our crampons to our boots. The hike was fairly steep at first and I as I paused to take in the view I realized just how dangerous this could potentially be with the cliffs and rocks below. Turns out this was the most difficult/dangerous part of the hike to which we were informed after we reached the top of it. The rain started to let up as we meandered through the accumulation zone past sections of vivid blue ice and through the deep crevasses. We hiked further in and around the snow caves and up the snowy staircases. There were points of time we were instructed to put our cameras away and hold onto ropes with both hands as we scaled carefully around the side of the glacier. Reaching three quarters of the way up at the summit we took in the view and took a moment to appreciate the climb itself. Although the climb itself was enjoyable, it was in this moment that the view became even more spectacular. Suddenly the wind came up and rain started down heavily and we began our decent. The way down seemed quicker that the way up (probably due to less picture stops and the rain). I could not have been more excited to jump onto an old tour bus out of the rain to refuel with water and a chocolate and apricot muesli bar.

After returning to the town of Franz Josef, and stripping off the wet gear we headed straight for a quick bite to eat and then off to the hot pools before they closed for the evening. What a nice way to end the evening – I would highly recommend indulging in the hot pools after a day on the glacier. All warm and cozy I slipped under the covers in my bunk and drifted off to sleep.

The next day at 7:30 AM I boarded the bus for Wanaka. Although not a required top en-route with the bus schedule I had the choice of either three nights in Franz Josef or two in Wanaka on my way to Queenstown. The two days in Wanaka were really nice and I am so glad I stopped there. There were two buses departing Franz Josef travelling together until the Wanaka turnoff. Our driver had no idea what was going on (he claimed it was his first time but since this trip I have spoken with a few others who travelled on different days) but it was fine we just followed the Queenstown driver and on and off the bus whenever they did. We stopped just outside of the Fox Glacier at Lake Matheson for a breakfast stop. The lake is one of the most photographed places in New Zealand known as “Mirror Lakes.” The Southern Alps (including Mt. Tasman, Mt. Cook and Fox Glacier) are perfected reflected in the lake below and frame the view from the rain forested walk and café. This is one place I could have spent hours just looking out at but with no accommodation nearby and no car of my own it was onward to the next stops (first at a coastal beach with figures resembling Inusik but with apparently no meaning and secondly at Knight’s Point for a look out at a seal colony). The views through this region were absolutely incredible with the Southern Alps framing the final decent into Wanaka surrounded by both Lake Hawea on the left then Lake Wanaka on the right.

After checking into the hostel I headed to the lake front to take in the beautiful day as the forecast was not looking sunny or overly warm for the next day. I was amazed at how few people were out on the shores. I had images of the backed shoreline of Sylvan Lake each summer and Sylvan doesn’t even begin to compare with Wanaka. It was nice and serene to walk along the water and take in the afternoon. My allergies had other plans though (sadly) so I headed back to the hostel for a shower and clean clothes and then off to the grocery store for a much craved helping of veggies. I spend the evening making in the bright and spacious kitchen preparing a towering salad and then retiring to the movie room to watch “Nacho Libre” as I recovered from the outdoors. The next days I spent many hours exploring Wanaka on foot. All along the main street I stumbled upon “The Millennium Project” a series of stones noting dates significant dates throughout history. Something unexpected and refreshing: note in the pictures the amount of history about Scotland as the Otago region has a strong population of immigrants from Scotland. You could spend the entire afternoon taking in the Millennium walk and a moment to pause every few stones to take in the view. Beyond this I wandered past the main beach along the Waterfall Walkway and onto the Ironman Track following the shores of Lake Wanaka. I cannot say enough to describe the view and the peace and tranquility of the 4 hour walk. Although not a difficult walk the numerous hills and cliffs did offer provide good exercise and yes the view was improved by climbing for it. After making it back into Wanaka I decided to treat myself to a refreshing glass of Otago Rose and a chocolate croissant from the Ardmore Café before heading off to Queenstown. An off the beaten path destination that was truly rewarding and one of my favorite places so far; as the many T-Shirts and the tourist shops say “I Heart Wanaka.”

Photos: Wellington to Greymouth

courtneycarmen — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 11:43:00 GMT

Do the South! (Wellington to Greymouth)

courtneycarmen — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 11:39:00 GMT

After chilling out in Wellington I set out on the ferry to Picton. I had been told the ferry is much rougher than BC Ferries due to the nature of the Cook Strait so I was expecting a bumpy ride. It turned out to be quite calm (in fact much more so than my last ferry from Vancouver to Nanaimo in a November storm). The scenery was absolutely gorgeous passing through a maze of deep channels, sheltered waterways and secluded bays surrounded by luscious vegetation on the hillsides. Many of the people I have met are doing whirlwind trips of NZ (buying a cheap bus pass and stopping for one night in each place). I however have been taking my time in each place so have tended to be travelling with different people every day. Arriving on the South Island has been even more so this way and for people on tighter schedules who have chosen to just “do the south.” I have to agree - although the North was lovely – the south is spectacular and really has much of what the north had to offer plus some.

Upon arrival in Picton we boarded the bus bound for Nelson. A few stops along the way to view the scenery of Marlborough Sounds and to taste the regional wines and culinary specialties (olive oils, fudge, ice cream and candy). Now the hostel in Nelson, Accents on the Park, was something else (much more like a guesthouse than a hostel – very very nice). I have tried to abstain from looking at each property from an industry perspective but I felt so strongly about this place that I am certain it played a significant part in the enjoyment of my stay in Nelson. It was the cleanest hostel I have stayed in to date and extremely helpful reception staff (the owners). Beyond that it was a character house which felt more like a home away from home with comfortable beds, completely user friendly facilities and extra touches I would expect in a hotel and a balcony overlooking the park. The park itself was centered around a beautiful Cathedral; the fact that a Cathedral was built in Nelson changed it status from a town to a city although all other aspects of Nelson resemble a town. A group of us decided to venture up the hill to the “Centre of NZ” a beautiful lookout point at the geographical center of NZ only steps away from the hostel.

Wine tasting the next day through the Richmond Plains on a tour made the most of a gloriously sunny day. A day filled with stunning views of beaches, vineyards and hills; tasting of grassroots wineries, NZ fruit and viewing crafts from the area was concluded with a cozy movie night back at the hostel.

My final day in Nelson started with a visit to the farmers market, wandering around the town and retiring to the hostel to escape the rain in the afternoon and evening to curl up to my newly purchased secondhand book(books are expensive here generally around $30).

Onward to Greymouth, there were quite a few lookouts along the way. Getting to the wet west coast the backdrop subtly changed to a more rugged coastline. Stunning beaches and rivers along the route with a final stop at the famous “Pancake Rocks.” I did manage to get a few nice shots before my camera battery died. The evening concluded with a tour of Monteith’s Brewery and dinner a local pub. Not much more to do in this sleepy town. I got a few snapshots of one of the few streets while I waited to board my bus en route Franz Josef. I will post more soon on my trip from Greymouth to Wanaka.

The “MAGIC” has begun...(Auckland to Wellington)

courtneycarmen — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:51:00 GMT

Auckland to Rotorua:

On January 6^thI started my Magic Bus adventure; we began with a quick picture stop at the top of Mt. Eden then headed onwards to Rotorua. The trip continued through The Bay of Islands for a drop off point in Thames for connecting passengers to the Coromandel. It was only a quick stop and I grabbed a latte and sandwich from a café for the road. Another photo stop in Paeroa for a chance to have my picture taken beside the “world famous in New Zealand” L&P Bottle (stands for Lemon and Paeroa – a popular NZ soft drink). Next stop we let all the Lord of the Rings fans get dropped off for the “Hobbiton Tour.” The drive reminded me of the Okanagan Valley, with rolling hills and lush green farmland, but it was very distinctive in color green everywhere with beautiful purple flowers. This was similar to what I found in Auckland too; the suburbs with historic white bungalow houses, large fences, green shrubbery and large purple flowers. Back to the tour…we arrived in Rotorua late afternoon the last stop before the hostels being a Maori historical center where we were given a short history of the aboriginal people of NZ. While in Rotorua for a few days I explored the lakefront, Government Gardens, The Polynesia Spa, The Redwood Forest and Kuirau Park. The latter two were the standouts for me and both were free activities! The Redwood Forest was about a 40 minute walk from my hostel along a geothermal pathway. Geysers, boiling mud and the strong scent of sulphur accompanied my walk until I reached the entrance to the park. A fresh air haven full of California Redwood trees towered above as I set out on a 2 hour trek up the mountainside. Meandering in and out of the forest on the sandy white path there were beautiful native trees and vegetation along the way. The view point looked down at Rotorua with a bird’s eye view of the town center and volcanic action below. Though the forest was beautiful and it did remind me of the many forest walks I took on random days in Tofino…I must admit it was not as impressive (old/large) as Cathedral Grove, Lonecone or Meares.

A walk through Kuairu Park was also a unique experience. It is a public park in Rotorua filled with more Geysers, boiling mud and hot pools. I ended up there a few times during my time there. The hostel I stayed at was a lot nicer than in Auckland; it was like a big comfy house and the staff there were great. The bed was even comfortable!!! Crash Palace proved to be a great a place to crash for a couple nights.

Rotorua to Taupo:

Leaving Rotorua we had an impromptu stop at our driver’s mother’s Angora Rabbit Shearing Shed. The thing to remember about this: it doesn’t hurt them and if they aren’t sheared they will die. An interesting experience all in all. Next we stopped in Waitomo for a few hours. I toured the glowworm cave by foot and boat. Although learning that these glowing green creatures were not in fact worms but maggots was not exactly comforting as I walked beneath them in the dark cave, it was a very cool experience – they even pointed out their abstract interpretations of the caves (a family, elephant, bird upside down, choir and cathedral. Heading along the backroads into Taupo through numerous switchbacks we reached the Huka Falls viewpoint for a few pictures. This was a highlight for me since I can’t get enough of waterfalls and the aqua color of the water. Arriving in Taupo we could see the lake for miles, vit is larger than Singapore, and before it erupted over 26 500 years ago it was taller than Mt. Everest. I didn’t partake in too much action here in Taupo (although known as the Sky Dive Capital of the World) just relaxed and took in the beauty of the area. I did the walk back up to Huka Falls and area for an afternoon. Sadly my lovely allergies decided to come back with a vengeance and I was forced to head back to the hostel. Not the end of the world…..I then ended up at the hostel lounge chatting with peeps on other tours and those who partook in the Tongariro Alpine Crossing(one of the best day hikes in NZ). I will do this on my way back though (unfortunately the weather did not cooperate and I was not able to go the next day).

Taupo to Wellington:

Not an overly exciting trip. This portion covered half the north island in one day so it was predominantly a full day on the bus (not so bad since it was rainy and cool). The landscape did change as we drove long Desert Road (although not an actual desert – this area was covered in an abundance of volcanic ash which rendered the soil infertile). We did have a photo stop to see Mt. Doom (LOTR), a lunch stop at Flat Hills Café (yummy lamb burger) and finally at the top of Mt. Victoria in Wellington before being dropped at the hostel. The views from the top of Mt. Victoria were nice, everything there in Welly is build on the hills reminiscent of San Francisco due to historical flooding. Back in the city there is not too much on the itinerary except visiting the national museum (Te Papa) and planning the next part of my trip. It is getting really busy on the south island so it seems I will be forced to put a little advance planning and bookings in place.

Photos: Auckland to Wellington

courtneycarmen — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:11:00 GMT

Photos: Edmonton to Auckland

courtneycarmen — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:58:00 GMT