I dont know if I can summarise the last few days but I will try. We left Saga on dirt roads...6 hours and no lunch later we arrived at Paryang. This was getting primitive now. Us three girls shared and used our sleeping bags on the hard Tibetan mattresses. We got a bowl of hot water delivered and sampled the community latrine...holes in the ground with a mountain of unmentionable below. Next day was on the road again for 7 hours of dirt and hellishly rough road conditions to Darchan the town beneath the Mt. Kailash. We again shared but the hotel was slightly better, and cleaner.Still outdoor latrine but actual stalls to divide the three holes. We packed the food and clothing needed for the trek and in the dark next day got ready to leave. We drove to the porter and horse pick up place and set off. I chose to walk all of that first day, the two guys (Joe and Steve) both walked also. Karen and Elaine and Jeff decided to ride and Carole started walking but resorted to the horse after a while. Elaine and Jeff returned to the hotel after about an hour and did not do the Kora. Elaine hadn't felt well and Jeff as tour operator thought he should accompany her back. We started off at 4600 metres and throughout the day went up a little and down a little and eventually finished up around 4900 metres. I must admit I was struggling at the end and ready to call for my horse, but our lovely Tibetan guide told me it was not much further to the monastery so I stuck it out, arriving, crying and shaking. After butter tea and a rest we went up to the monastery and heard legends of the area and sat in the cave which was the original monastery.
The next day was the High pass....I chose to ride the horse up hill. The two guys walked! I am full of admiration especially for Joe who did it all without the medication for Altitude Sickness that we all took as preventative. It was VERY VERY steep and rocky...the horses stumbled and as we got near the top it was snowy and icy. We stopped at the sky burial place where they chop up the dead bodies and allow the birds to consume the flesh. Onward to the top of the pass where we had to say goodbye for all of us to the horses as it is dangerous to ride downhill. We stumbled and I fell once, down the long decent from 5660 metres to 4800 metres. It was worse by far than the PYG trail in Wales on Snowdon. It took us over 3 hours and we fell into the tea house tent at the bottom expecting a rest. But as we were running late for the day our guide made us get up and move again. I chose the horse but wish I hadn't. It was 4 more hours of HELL. I was petrified. There were sheer drops and canyon edges and rocks and my ankles and knees hurt. I was ready to fall off and say I would have another baby..Yea twins sideways if they would just let me off the horse. Carole told them to let her die and pick the body up later. The Guys Walked. They took 5 hours and we took 4 to reach the next monastery for the night. This day was practically an 11 hour day for us. Our diet had been energy bars and the occasional bowl of noodles so my stomach was churning. An Immodium tablet was in order this night as keeping on running to the outdoors community loo was not on!
Next day I walked out....no more horse for me...I found out later they they all had had faith in me and knew I could make. I vowed never again to do a trek like this.
Today we drove over the mountains dirt road again hairpin bend after hairpin bend to Guge Kingdom in far West Tibet. We are now at a place calld Tsata...with a hotel with toilet...does not flush...no shower still...(forgotten what they are)..but an Internet cafe in town. Albeit with dodgy keyboard.
We went to visit the local monastery this afternoon MORE ABOUT THAT ANOTHER TIME...BUT I WAS REDUCED TO TEARS.
So Guys...keep reading and commenting please...and I assure you my next holiday will be in luxury. I have not had a drink for ages and look 20 years older..so there is an argument for alcohol if ever I heard one. My nose is constantly blocked. But I am alive and sorta well and will be happy to be home!
Coral
