Adventure of a Lifetime

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coralhorton — Fri, 9 Oct 2009 10:34:00 GMT

Back home now..and some of what I did not say while In China can now be said. The Tibetans are treated so badly by the Chinese. This time while there we observed military on the roofs around the Jokhang Palace and Barkor Square. There were police everywhere and military. When we travelled around Tibet the car had to undergo many many police checkpoints and our pasports were checked time and time again. We were not allowed to photograph any military or police and we were even told the rooms could be bugged.

Its all very sensitive out there and they are waiting for trouble. The Chinese are building roads out to the far West of Tibet, obviously to get the mineral resources out. There is no feeling for the people of the land, just pure greed.

In some of the monasteries we were taken into we were shown the destruction that the Chinese had caused when they entered Tibet. The destruction of statues and figures. The destroyed rooms with the feeling of death still lingering in them brought me to tears.

Still I will get of my high horse now...and settle back to enjoying the sunshine back here in Oz.

Thanks for reading my blog.

Coral

Flying today

coralhorton — Tue, 6 Oct 2009 09:33:00 GMT

Nothing new to report.....Flying later today....As expected the 'stuff up' with the train tickets at the begining of the 'holiday' will cost me even more money, so rather than that cost being absorbed by the organisers of the trip (who caused the 'stuff up') I have to send even more cash to USA when I return....must be part of the extensive lessons this trip has brought me. :)

xxx

Beijng Again

coralhorton — Mon, 5 Oct 2009 13:17:00 GMT

I cannot tell you the wonderment at seeing our train cabin for two nights, and the amount of baggage the four of us had...All I could do was laugh...but with me climbing on the top bunk and stashing and stowing what we could up top and some under the bunks and table and the two big duffles at the end of the two lower bunks we settled in amid much laughter. Jeff and I had two bags each and one extra food bag each, but the other two had a little more!!!! It was a cosy foursome that first day, but Jeff departing on the second day to fly from Chenin gave us a little more room. I soon became like a monkey leaping around the cabin over top bunks and down the stepping ledges! I also slept well the second night...quite a home away from home!

We got here this morning, and it was a teary goodbye to Karen as she and Carole are staying at another Hotel tonight. I will see Carole at the airport tomorrow as her plane and mine are similar times, but Karen leaves early in the day. Jeff being the tour operator stays in Beijing for a few more days to see another of his groups into Beijing.

The first day on the train was one of snow covered peaks and hills. It was across the great Tibetan Plateau, and sometimes all we could see was White out of one window and white out of the other! The second day was through agricultural land and small chinese villages. I took some pictures for you Joe.

I will have quite a bit more to write on my return from China...things I wont write now.

It has been a trip of wonderment at my energy and strength, and overall a success.

Flight tomorrow...home next day, my dear Mary meets me and I am excited to be seeing her again. Maybe Julie will come to the airport too!?

Thanks Robert, Val and Martin for comments. xxx

Coral

The Train

coralhorton — Fri, 2 Oct 2009 23:37:00 GMT

After a day of shopping and another Kora around Jokhang we are ready to depart in the morning for Beijing.

Its a two day, two night trip, so hopefully it will be full of scenic delights.

Cant wait to be home now.

Lhasa

coralhorton — Thu, 1 Oct 2009 18:30:00 GMT

We got back to Lhasa yesterday afternoon. Two of our party..Steve and Elaine left today on the two day train journey back to Beijing. The first day we are told is the most interesting across the Tibetan Plateau. Today was the 60th anniversary of the peoples Republic of China. So there were marches in Beijing which we saw on TV and a bit of a 'holiday' here in Lhasa.

Shigatse

coralhorton — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:40:00 GMT

After nearly 10 hours on the road, only 3 1/2 hours of it dirt, we arrived in Shigatse. This is a nice Hotel and its my now fourth stay here. Karen and I are sharing tonight. Steve reckons he might even risk a beer tonight and I think I will join him. We have not had any alcohol in the high altitude as it makes you feel woozy, but we all think that as we are so much lower now....around 12,000 feet now which for us lot after 18,000 feet feels really low, some of us will risk it!

Yesterday we saw snow falling on the Himalayas so the weather is begining to change, its been a lot colder in the mornings too. It will be interesting to see what Lhasa is like tomorrow as we left in HOT weather. It will be nice to be 'home' for three nights before the long train trip, and then flight home, but we are all ready now to go home.

Not much to say about today, we had a rice lunch instead of the continual energy bars we have been eating for lunch, but as we left before light this morning our breakfast was self catered! I had a Yoghurt drink and some fruit jelly I bought in the supermarket, but the thing is our diet has been rubbish really so again it will be nice to get back to Lhasa. At least here we have showers and toilets!

Talking of toilets....Paryang will live long in my memory as one of those places that only look good in the rear vision mirror!

Thanks for the feedback..and see some of you soon.

Coral

SAGA again

coralhorton — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:24:00 GMT

No Martin we did not get a well earned rest after the Kora!...it was just time and sleep that made us feel better...Every day has been jammed packed with sight seeing or driving. We left Guge Kingdom for the LONG drive back to Darchen with a sight seeing tour of Lake Manasovar on the way. This beautiful lake has a monastery on it called Chew (Bird) we were told the story of its creation back in the 9th century. I did a Kora of the Mantras...about my length of Kora now...just few minutes long!

The trip back from Darchen next day was over 7 hours of rock and roll and rough sandy rocky road. It was more like the 'Outback Bash' and my innards felt like they had been moved and replaced on arrival at Paryang last night. I never would have thought I would have felt happy to arrive at Paryang..the place of unbelievably smelly holes in the ground loos! Still after 6 more hours today we arrived back in Saga, with the luxury of hot water after 8pm awaiting us. Warm beds and internet! Tomorrow is part dirt road and mostly paved road for nearly 12 hours to Shigatse, the next day back to Lhasa. I have 3 nights in Lhasa then two on the train "Rooftop of the world" into Beijing, then one night then on the plane!!!!

Tonight will be the first shower for over a week, and washing of hair in the shower not a bucket.

I hope all this will benefit me and my future but anyway even if it doesn't there has been a lot of laughter along the way, companionship and trust.

All for now guys....dinner is ready...more noodles no doubt!

Guge Kingdom and recovery

coralhorton — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 18:04:00 GMT

Today we all woke to better spirits and less sore limbs and bottoms. The Sun is shining we are in T shirts at lower altitude (3300???m approx)and the world looks good again. We took off this morning for Guge...Martin and Gabrielle will recall the old towns along the silk route made of mud..well it was like that only set in a canyon setting. The monastery was also build in 10th century and inside also like yesterday we could see the beauty of old marred by the destruction of these recent years here.

The whole area is sensitive and we have to be careful of what we say and think.

Tomorrow we brave the 6 or 7 hours of dirt, sand, rock road back over passes to Lake Manasovar, and we will spend the night back at Darchan hotel as it is marginally better than the one at the Lake.

Some extra random notes on the trek. The ascent to the top of the pass was 4 hours, even with the horses. So that day was almost a 12 hour day of trekking. When we got back to the Hotel after the trek I was so numb that I wanted to get clean but didn't know how to start. Nor did anyone else we walked around in circles and we were incoherent for a while. Then I decided to wash my hair, so the process began and eventually I was clean! It was a two bucket job in the front yard of the hotel.(The hair only..not the body!!)..(this term Hotel is used very loosely). We saw Yak herds on the mountain, and yesterday we saw Dyang (wild Donkey) and wild goats which are cute!

I have wondered how such a country so worried about face masks and SARS and swine flu give no thought to E-Coli from their own faeces.!!??? Like..follow that!!!!

My Porter Tic tock, or tac tic, or some such name was wonderful to me and looked after me..especially when I was on the horse. He held my arm over the scary bits and believe me screaming sorta proves I was scared!

He had two front teeth missing and smoked and looked a 'picture'. I hugged him on our return for looking after me so well.

This Kora is done by Hindus, Bonn, Jain, Buddhists, Muslims, to name a few of the religions that this mountain is sacred to....It is supposed to absolve all karma by doing the Kora..Our Tibetan guide has done it 19 times now. I have done it by car, horse and foot. I felt I cheated a bit by using the car, but would have had to walk an extra 3 hours on the last day to get back to where we started. So if I didn't absolve all my karma I sure musta earned some brownie points somewhere!

This year is the Tibetan year of the Horse a very auspicious year for doing the Kora..not that we knew that when we decided to do it. Most locals do it in one day all 53 k of it!

Well again..thanks to those who read this..and comment..much appreciated..and yes Martin pictures will get to flickr one of these days. Much love.

xxxx

My next trip will be a cruise!

coralhorton — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:02:00 GMT

I dont know if I can summarise the last few days but I will try. We left Saga on dirt roads...6 hours and no lunch later we arrived at Paryang. This was getting primitive now. Us three girls shared and used our sleeping bags on the hard Tibetan mattresses. We got a bowl of hot water delivered and sampled the community latrine...holes in the ground with a mountain of unmentionable below. Next day was on the road again for 7 hours of dirt and hellishly rough road conditions to Darchan the town beneath the Mt. Kailash. We again shared but the hotel was slightly better, and cleaner.Still outdoor latrine but actual stalls to divide the three holes. We packed the food and clothing needed for the trek and in the dark next day got ready to leave. We drove to the porter and horse pick up place and set off. I chose to walk all of that first day, the two guys (Joe and Steve) both walked also. Karen and Elaine and Jeff decided to ride and Carole started walking but resorted to the horse after a while. Elaine and Jeff returned to the hotel after about an hour and did not do the Kora. Elaine hadn't felt well and Jeff as tour operator thought he should accompany her back. We started off at 4600 metres and throughout the day went up a little and down a little and eventually finished up around 4900 metres. I must admit I was struggling at the end and ready to call for my horse, but our lovely Tibetan guide told me it was not much further to the monastery so I stuck it out, arriving, crying and shaking. After butter tea and a rest we went up to the monastery and heard legends of the area and sat in the cave which was the original monastery.

The next day was the High pass....I chose to ride the horse up hill. The two guys walked! I am full of admiration especially for Joe who did it all without the medication for Altitude Sickness that we all took as preventative. It was VERY VERY steep and rocky...the horses stumbled and as we got near the top it was snowy and icy. We stopped at the sky burial place where they chop up the dead bodies and allow the birds to consume the flesh. Onward to the top of the pass where we had to say goodbye for all of us to the horses as it is dangerous to ride downhill. We stumbled and I fell once, down the long decent from 5660 metres to 4800 metres. It was worse by far than the PYG trail in Wales on Snowdon. It took us over 3 hours and we fell into the tea house tent at the bottom expecting a rest. But as we were running late for the day our guide made us get up and move again. I chose the horse but wish I hadn't. It was 4 more hours of HELL. I was petrified. There were sheer drops and canyon edges and rocks and my ankles and knees hurt. I was ready to fall off and say I would have another baby..Yea twins sideways if they would just let me off the horse. Carole told them to let her die and pick the body up later. The Guys Walked. They took 5 hours and we took 4 to reach the next monastery for the night. This day was practically an 11 hour day for us. Our diet had been energy bars and the occasional bowl of noodles so my stomach was churning. An Immodium tablet was in order this night as keeping on running to the outdoors community loo was not on!

Next day I walked out....no more horse for me...I found out later they they all had had faith in me and knew I could make. I vowed never again to do a trek like this.

Today we drove over the mountains dirt road again hairpin bend after hairpin bend to Guge Kingdom in far West Tibet. We are now at a place calld Tsata...with a hotel with toilet...does not flush...no shower still...(forgotten what they are)..but an Internet cafe in town. Albeit with dodgy keyboard.

We went to visit the local monastery this afternoon MORE ABOUT THAT ANOTHER TIME...BUT I WAS REDUCED TO TEARS.

So Guys...keep reading and commenting please...and I assure you my next holiday will be in luxury. I have not had a drink for ages and look 20 years older..so there is an argument for alcohol if ever I heard one. My nose is constantly blocked. But I am alive and sorta well and will be happy to be home!

Coral

Saga

coralhorton — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 20:40:00 GMT

Saga is the name of the town we are in tonight. Surprisingly there is internet here! And hot water between 8pm and 12.!! We took 12 hours to reach here. The first part was on sealed road through the valley with farmers reaping their barley and keeping their doh (Cross between a cow and yak), horses and sheep. Later the scenery changed as the Himalayas came into view. The scenery was stunning with snow capped peaks, and a glimpse of Everest. He/She was a bit cloud covered but we got a look. Later again the road became dirt and we did two passes on precipitous narrow one lane roads made of sand. We have been as high as 5280 metres today, and as Carole and I hung a prayer flag at the top of one of the passes we did not feel any effects from the altitude at all! We passed a stunning turquoise coloured lake with the backdrop of the snow and glacier mountains behind. Incongruously we saw Cells for collecting electricity out here in this wilderness! (Voltaric?).

Our Tibetan guide said "This is Shangrila"...and I agree. We all felt so well today at this extreme height we feel more optimistic about the trek now.

We have two more days on the road before arriving at the trail head. but not as long as today.

Thanks for the comments...its nice to have them..love to Julie please Mary.

Shigatse

coralhorton — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:15:00 GMT

We left this morning and followed the path of the mighty Brahmaputra River as the Indians call it. It has another name here in Tibet and rises in the Kailash area where we are going. The journey took us 7 hours, but our journey tomorrow will be much longer so we must leave early. We have risen slightly in height to 3826 mtrs, or 12,550 feet. I am slightly headachy tonight, not enough water I think. It has been much hotter than I thought too, and so have to make my 3 T-shirts last as long as possible. There will be no chances for washing them for a while. When we leave here tomorrow the town we stay in next is very small with only one shop...so I dont expect internet from now on. After that the area gets even more remote. The trek is in 4 sleeps from now, we spend 2 nights on the trail, then one night recovery at the trail start then into Guge Kingdom, then the long road back, so it will quite some time before I can update this again. But I am sure there will be many a tale to tell.

The Chinese presence is vast now compared to 3 years ago. far more police checks on the roads.

Thank you Mary for your comment, you dont know how much I appreciate the fact of comments on this blog. It makes it all worth while. So any comments appreciated, and also it brings 'home' to me. I dont feel alone. I am so fortunate to have this group of people with me, we are a great bunch, whether or not we are fit enough is debateable, they are fun to be with, supportive and spiritual. We know what we are about to do will be a changing experience for us all.

Much love

Coral

Jokhang

coralhorton — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:39:00 GMT

Yesterday was wonderful, we did a Kora (Circuit of a sacred building or mountain) of the Jokhang temple, with intentions of going in after..but we got to buying T shirts for the Hot weather, then hunting for a lunch place well remembered from last time we were here.

I bought prayer flags for us to leave at the highest pass on the Kora around Mt. Kailash when we get there.

Today was all I wanted and more. We went into the Jokhang temple and it worked its spell on me again, bringing me to tears with the wonderful atmosphere in these walls. People again lined the walls to pay homage to Buddha in all his images.

I prayed for any past relationships of mine to be healed and for safe passage for us all on our high altitude trek coming up. We went on the roof for a wonderful view of the Potala. We noticed armed soldiers on the roof of an adjacent building. The place is crawling with extra police and military presence. Also Lhasa has changed, there is building going on everywhere. When we reached the lovely cafe which has a roof top area for lunch the view of the Potala was obstructed by new buildings in the way.

I was told by the tour guide to take the Tibet cloth badge of my back pack as it would inflame trouble if a soldier saw it.

We went to the Tibetan arts centre, and a supermarket to top up supplies for the trek. And we now prepare to leave for Shigatse tomorrow on the long journey to Mt. Kailash and one of the most remote locations on the planet.

Lhasa

coralhorton — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 09:49:00 GMT

Hi Guys...Well after a patchy night, I am adjusting to the altitude OK. We are at 3648 metres high in Lhasa which is around 11,800 feet. We will stay here 2 more nights before we drive across Tibet to do our trek. I dont feel some of us are well prepared for this but we will give it our best shot.

Today is one of free time so I am hoping to go back into the Jokang, the place which stirred me up so much before. The atmosphere being wonderful. We will also do some essential shopping. Other than that just rest and relax as much as possible.

All for now.

Tibet

coralhorton — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 19:41:00 GMT

Well the Gangs all here....we flew into Lhasa today to heat of 28 degrees, with suitcases full of gloves, scarves, jumpers, coats, thermal underwear etc.

I am not writing much today..so tired now. Out to tea soon and just time for a shower.

Thanks to those who read this rambling.

Sunday in Beijing

coralhorton — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:12:00 GMT

We went out to tea last night ...Jeff in his wisdom chose the place...well we certainly got some walking in! Any way I ate chicken and peanuts washed down with a bottle of beer. It was great. on the way back we were herded like sheep by the police to the end of the street and so walked even more..then could not get back to the Hotel due to the military stopping us crossing the road to the Hotel! We had to catch a bus for one stop just to get back to the Hotel. It was due, we found out later, to some anniversary and therefore fireworks going to be let off. So some streets were closed to pedestrians.

Today we went to buy me a sleeping bag in the 'Pearl Markets', then 4 of us booked a tour of the old town. It was great...we climbed the 69 steps to the drum tower...legs like jelly again for a short while! walked the old town, went into a private home. The man used to be an archeaologist involved with Carbon dating in the University in Beijing and was a clever and knowledgeable man. We then went to Prince Gongs palace and gardens.

Now off to tea...lets hope Jeff picks a closer restaurant! Flight tomorrow to Lhasa..all being well!

Safe Arrival

coralhorton — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 19:13:00 GMT

Well after an hour hold up on the motorway getting to Heathrow I was very glad I had allowed myself 3 1/2 hours for check in, with picking up money at Travelex which took ages I needed every bit of it!

The flight was OK..except for the fact that Air China do not have much tilt back on their seats so trying to sleep was very uncomfortable. It is a real no frills Air line, no wet towels, no juices ecept at meal times and no drinks unless you ask. Very poor service over all.

Still they got me here, and that is the main thing. The others are wending their way here, 5 have arrived and two to come tomorrow. We have to fly to Lhasa 14th morning now as our plans got changed for us..but it might be a blessing in disguise! who knows.

Tomorrow...leaving

coralhorton — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 20:20:00 GMT

Tomorrow I get on the flight to Beijing. Things are happening already...the tickets for the train Beijing to Lhasa have 'vanished' so we have to fly to Lhasa now. Fortunately I have decided to come back from Lhasa by train so I still get to do the trip.

I wonder what else will happen! I will know more when I get there..I only just heard about the changed plans to Lhasa! It might mean a total change of dates....how interesting!!!

Last minute things

coralhorton — Tue, 8 Sep 2009 15:27:00 GMT

I went to the Sunday Night dance and got a wonderful send off. Steve played lots of 'Aussie' music and everyone was wonderful to me wishing me well. The only thing that marred it was I twisted my knee. I now have it strapped in an attempt to cure it quickly! There have been emails flying between all of us 7 who are doing this trip..Jeff hurt his arm, Carole her foot, me my knee and Karen is just generally not feeling well! The other 3 are OK so far....all in all what a motley crew! But I am sure Buddah will look after us!

Thanks Jan for the comment...yes it is with trepidation and humour I approach this challenge. As do all the other 6. Only a few more days left to do last minute preparations.

coralhorton — Wed, 2 Sep 2009 20:01:00 GMT

There wont be a daily post at present. I just wanted to see if you all could log on and see the posts. As I think I said I leave here the 11th September so will write more after that day.

Thanks for comments and feedback so far!

I think this will be an emotional trip. Altitude always makes me emotional anyway. But as the Kora around Mt. Kailash is supposed to absolve all karma I shall come back pure!

Less than 2 weeks to go.

coralhorton — Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:29:00 GMT

Well there still seems a lot to do. I am off today to buy a space blanket, and some food supplies. I dont know how I shall get everything into my bag! I am getting a little scared now..Can I do this trek!? I havent been training much apart from Snowdon and the tops of my legs were like jelly after that. And that wasn't at altitude.

No-one except me seems bothered though..There seems to be supreme confidence amongst my family and friends that I CAN do this and live to tell the tale..so they must be right!

Adventure of a Lifetime

Home

Flying today

Beijng Again

The Train

Lhasa

Shigatse

SAGA again

Guge Kingdom and recovery

My next trip will be a cruise!

Saga

Shigatse

Jokhang

Lhasa

Tibet

Sunday in Beijing

Safe Arrival

Tomorrow...leaving

Last minute things

More

Less than 2 weeks to go.