I will forever associate South Korea with the smell of fish. Cooked, raw, caramelised, rotten, in brine and in kimchi, in filthy and clean aquariums, in markets and in soups. And if I had to eat another seaweed I would turn into a fish myself.
And this, despite the fact that I had what were probably some of the best meat dishes I have ever had to deal with. Barbecued on coals and a hotplate right at the table. Stirred in a massive paella style flat pan with cabbage, chilly paste and eaten wrapped around lettuce and sesame leaves with plenty of assorted onions and garlic. Hungry just thinking about it and I have already had lunch.
South Korea is green, surprisingly rural and quite understated. The people seem a far cry of the image of neurotic crammers that I at least have associated them with.
In Seoul, the 1988 Olympic Green is an immense park filled with families flying kites, relaxing, playing sports and generally having a pretty normal Saturday afternoon.
The fashion in the streets is mainly grey and black with lost of “suits” walking around but then there is a coffee shop at every corner and more and the restaurants and DVD rooms are filled with people socializing.
Seoul is one open street market with street stalls selling everything from silkworm larvae to figs to hot dogs wrapped with something else and seaweed.
The most surprising thing of all though is an all pervading love of nature which manifests itself through the countless outdoor gear shops in every town, the impeccable national parks, the gorgeous coasts of the east side of the peninsula and the middle aged ladies and not a few grannies hiking up vertical paths all over the place.
South Koreans are curt, a little without expression to start with but very friendly when engaged, even with their non-existent English. In fact, the language barrier is not a barrier at all and with a few grunts and gestures we made our way with no trouble whatsoever across Chungeong, Shokso, Soreaksan, Gyengjiu (I think) and a few other unpronounceable places managing to be fed, watered and generally catered for, more than adequately. If I could only have one request ………. Next time, go a little bit easy on the seaweed!
