Our train was due for departure at 10.30pm. Having originated in Moscow, it had a 1 hour stop in Perm. We boarded the train shortly after 9.30pm, organised our gear, made up our beds and settled in for the night. A relatively uneventful night ensued. There is something cosy and comforting, being in tucked up in a bunk bed and falling asleep to the sway of the train. Brief semi-wakeful moments during the night and you are lulled back into dreams. A unique and pleasant experience.
Life on the rails is actually not too bad. The Russians have got most things covered. We are travelling second class. The carriage is made up of 9 compartments, each with 4 beds. If you're in third class, it is a 54 bed dormitory style arrangement. There is a toilet at each end of the carriage. There is also a cabin for the Provodnista.
There are no showers onboard, however, there is a staff carriage with showering and ironing facilities. In theory, the Provodnitsa can arrange a visit to this carriage for a few dollars. The Provodnista is the one in charge. Apart from checking tickets, handing out the bed linen, warning you when your stop is close, including waking you in the middle of the night, their main job is to keep the carriage slick and span and keep the samovar/urn full of water. Most are very diligent about this and you'll see them cleaning the toilets, moping the floor by hand, vacuuming and straightening the carpet. Very few will speak any language other than Russian and some sport the most distinctive hairdos you've seen outside a drag queen convention. All look as smart as sergeants in their RZD uniforms and are just as ready to knock you into shape if you step out of line. But being polite, respectful and showing a smile and the Provodnista will do her best to make your journey a pleasant one.
FYI - this is a traditionally female role, however, there are sometimes men, they are Provodnik.
Fresh sheets and pillowcases are handed out after boarding. Depending on what is included in your ticket, you may also receive one meal, shortly after departure. Powerpoints are located in the passage of the carriage, usually 3-4, where you can give electronic goods a splurge of life. There are restaurant carriages where you can buy simple meals and a whole assortment of alcoholic beverages. At every stop there is also plenty of opportunity to shop for food from the platform vendors. The choice of items can be excellent with bread, fresh dairy products, ice cream, grilled chicken, boiled potatoes, local fruit and an assortment of home cooking. Compartment picnics with fellow travellers is common. They start with a fresh cloth being laid across the table and the sum of each persons gathering laid out to share.
In terms of clothing, loose fitting and layered is best. Russian train attire often consists of ultra-loud synthetic track suits, a t-shirt and sandals/flip-flops. We witnessed fully suited businessmen get on the train and minutes later are in their bright tracksuit and slippers. It is considered bad manners to have suits indoors, even in the train. So if you've forgotten your house shoes/slippers, there are disposable ones conveniently provided.
We wake in the morning with enough time for a basic breakfast from our food bag. And while a good portion of the train are still sleeping, we disembark into another Russian city and now officially in Siberia. Good morning Tyumen!
