Tessendorf's Abroad

Photos: Gobi Desert

bstess — Wed, 27 Sep 2017 22:11:00 GMT

Photos: Ulaanbaatar

bstess — Tue, 26 Sep 2017 12:34:00 GMT

Leg 13: Ulan Ude-Ulaanbaatar, 439km

bstess — Fri, 22 Sep 2017 10:28:00 GMT

Quite an early start for this one, train departure at 6.15am. In the mostly dark, we hauled our luggage onto a sleeping train. Our carriage was easy to spot, the only Mongolian carriage amongst all the Russian carriages. It was also exclusively for white foreigners. Our cabin buddies were asleep, so we made up our beds and climbed in a few extra zzz's ourselves. It was a pretty lazy morning, the usual train activities, reading, sleeping, eating and staring out the window. Around 1pm we arrive at the Russian border. Our bags and cabin are checked by customs officials and then our passports & visas examined. After the formalities are completed, we are free to leave the train and explore. At this point we are quite a few carriages less than when we departed in Ulan Ude and our carriage is the only one that has passengers. Along with a group of young European backpackers, including our French cabin buddies, we walked the 10minutes to the village to find the 'supermarket'. And just like every other border town, there was nothing pretty about this one. We felt somewhat older than our current companions, a detail highlighted at the local store. While we purchased bananas, yogurt and biscuits, they were buying vodka and beer for the train that night. Steph brought brought an ice-cream, however, decided that the crumb on the outside looked suspiciously like biscuits and gave it to a delighted bunch of school kids. The carriage conductor had advised we had 3 hours, our little excursion lasted about an hour and when we returned our little Mongolian carriage was no where in sight. A nervous 20minutes later in trundles back onto the platform after a trip to the work-shed to have its bogies changed. We get back on and spend a further agonising 2 hours going no where. We finally crawl out of the station at 5pm, 4 hours in total at the Russian border. We then move very slowly to the Mongolian side of the border. It takes an hour to cover the 21km. We pull up in front of the station and there are a variety of official looking uniforms walking around. One of the uniforms, a lady with a large secure briefcase appears on the platform and boards the train. Our passports are collected and presumably placed in said suitcase which is then taken into the station building. Anther round of cabin and baggage checks and an hour later, the suitcase makes it's way back across the platform and onto the train. Our passports are returned, a few more stamps and we are now officially in Mongolia. And allowed to leave the carriage. We are told that we have one hour. We eagerly jump of the train and are greeted by the most bizarre sight - our little Mongolian carriage stands alone. Not a single other carriage or locomotive in sight. Our Russian train has departed back to Russian and I guess we have to wait to be connected to a Mongolian train heading south. The station has nothing to offer, so we venture off into the streets and go into the first food establishment we see. They have English translations in the menu. First on the list, beef with 5 organs. This does nothing to alleviate Bevan's anxiety about the potential diet for the next week. We opted for the safe fried potato and rice with egg. As the one hour deadline approached, we ran back to the station and onto on carriage, which now had now been connected with some friends. There was a heart-racing moment as we first entered the platform area as the train on the first track did not have our train number on it. We quickly remembered that our carriage was on the next track over, we ran around and enormous relief to see our carriage! We need not have rushed though, it was another hour before we left. 3 hours at the Mongolian border, a total of 7 hours at the two checkpoints. Almost enough time to get through War and Peace!

Again, the difference in age was highlighted when we climbed into bed and all the young ones congregated in another cabin to drink the copious amounts of vodka procured at the border. Fortunately, sleeping was not an issue and we didn't even hear our cabin buddies come into bed.

In what felt like the middle of the night, lights were turned on and the rustle of luggage ensued. We were arriving into Ulaanbaatar in the early hours. The lights of the city could be seen in the distance as we ambled along. By the time we arrived, it was 6am and the days first light was breaking over the horizon. A new day, a new city and a new country. But first, coffee!

Ulan Ude

bstess — Thu, 21 Sep 2017 22:26:00 GMT

A small and cosy town centre, a giant Lenin head and plenty of Buddhist influence, this really is quite a likeable city. Our hotel is a short walk from the train station. As customary upon arrival in a new town, we head to the local supermarket for supplies and a browse. Here, in the middle of Asian continent, we find Australian flag flip-flops

The next morning, we enjoy a dose of hotel life. Lying around in our pjs and catching up on all things internet related. By midday, we're ready to head out. First stop is the town's star attraction - a giant Lenin head in the town square. At 7.7m high, it is the largest largest and was installed in 1970 to celebrate Lenin's 100th birthday. We had lunch at a local canteen and a short wander around the town centre. The scenery, landscape and people are starting to change now and It is easy to forget we are still in Russia. There are now Mongolian faces than not and the colourful signs of Buddhism are aplenty. This town has quite a smile about it.

For the afternoon, we took a local minibus up the hill a few kilometres out of town and visited a modern Tibetan Buddhist temple - Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan. There is a 6m-high Buddha and great views over the city. There is also a circular walk around the temple grounds where we came across squirrels, dogs and lots of pigeons.

We treated ourselves to a nice restaurant dinner and a glass of red wine - and celebrated our 40th day on holiday and also our last night in Russia. Next stop Mongolia.

Photos: Ulan Ude

bstess — Thu, 21 Sep 2017 22:22:00 GMT

Photos: Irkutsk to Ulan Ude

bstess — Wed, 20 Sep 2017 12:15:00 GMT

Leg 12: Irkutsk-Ulan Ude, 460km

bstess — Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:12:00 GMT

It felt odd to be getting on the train knowing that we would not be sleeping on it. After a midday departure, we were due in at Ulan Ude at 8.15pm. We still had a sleeper cabin though, the only option for this train, as it departed from Moscow four days earlier.

We were excited, as this section is touted to be the most scenic of the whole Trans-Siberian line. Well, the guidebooks were right! We had the 4-berth cabin to ourselves and it was on the left side of the carriage, perfect for stunning lake views. After about 2 hours, we reach Slyudyanka and the lake comes into view. For the next 5 hours we trundle around the southern shores of Lake Baikal. So close to water at times you could dip your toes in, if only these windows opened! At one point, we thought that we had turned away from the lake and made our beds up for an afternoon nap. Upon waking though, the lake was still there, in all its glory. More stunning scenery, the mountain ridges framing the lake and the pebbly beaches so idyllic.

We enjoyed a quiet dinner at the dining cart as we eventually turned away from the lake and eastwards towards Ulan Ude. A lovely afternoon sightseeing from the comfort our private cabin, holiday bliss!

Irkutsk / Lake Baikal

bstess — Tue, 19 Sep 2017 07:03:00 GMT

After 50 hours, we were ready to depart the train. It was only the last few that felt longish though. Given that we were arriving at 9pm and departing again the next morning, we booked accommodation close to the train station. Go to any city in the world and the area around the central train station is always buzzing and slightly seedy and dodgy. This was a matter of convenience, 250m from the station, up a massive flight of stairs and the hotel turned out to be just fine. Standard hotel room and amenities, bed, towels, kettle and hot water shower. We were not all that tired, no physical movement or 2 days and plenty of dozing meant we had energy to burn. A short walk around the corner and we found a mini-market. I always find it so fascinating to browse the aisles of a foreign supermarket.

The next morning, Sunday, we were up somewhat early. It was surprise day. At this point Bevan had no idea what was in store. All that he knew was that a driver was collecting us at 9.20am. We had breakfast, found some drinkable coffee next door and went for a walk to the local market. Our driver, Sergei was a delightful chap. So friendly, full of life and excited to be chatting to us. He drove us to the outskirts of town, turned up a dirt road and we stopped in a clearing. Bevan asked Steph if this was where we were meant to be and Steph's reply was 'I'm not sure...' We stood gazing out over the valley and the Autumn coloured forest, so beautiful! We were a little early, but 20 minutes later, a dot appears over the ridge. Surprise, there's our ride! The helicopter approaches, growing larger and louder by the second. It comes to land in a small clearing 100m from us. Sergei advises that we can approach when the blades have stopped moving. A few moments later, our pilot, Oleg emerges and guides us to our seats. Oleg is even wearing a souvenir t-shirt from Australia. He tells us that his wife lives on the Gold Coast and he resides 6 months a year there with her.

We are going for a 90 minute scenic flight along the Angara river to Lake Baikal and then viewing from above and then returning over the vast expanse of Siberian forest. The Circum-Baikal railway crawls along the lake edge 4 times a week and is primarily a sightseeing branch line after the main trans-Siberian line was rerouted in the 1950's.

The logistics of spending a day travelling the scenic railway didn't fit into our itinerary. So Steph arranged a surprise highlight of the honeymoon unbeknownst to Bevan.

Needless to say, it was stunning!! It took about 30 minutes to follow the river out to the lake. We saw villages along the way and on the lakes edge. We saw Listvyanka, the village we would be staying at for the next 2 nights. We dropped in altitude and we spotted Port Baikal, the starting point of the the Circum-Baikal railway. We followed the twists and turns of the railroad while taking in the immense beauty this giant body of water. Upon reaching Slyudyanka, we turned inland to make our way back to Irkutsk over the dense forest.

Sergei was waiting for us when we returned. We got he obligatory photos in front of the helicopter and with Oleg. What an absolute treat! Much more costly than a trip on the train but totally worth it!

A quick lunch back at the hotel and it was time to head back to the lake, this time in a car. We booked a taxi on a ride sharing app and braced ourselves for the 70km drive on Russian roads. The car that arrives does nothing to allay Bevan's nerves. A boy-racer car that has seen better days. No room in the boot for our backpacks as the boot has a twin speaker subwoofer box crammed in, so they are piled into the backseat. Bevan takes the front seat and Steph squishes into the back, no seatbelt in sight. Thankfully, the turbocharger does not seem to be connected and the extra 200kg or so prevents any sudden movements. Things get a little sketchy when young mate gets confused with the highway roadworks diversions and turns off onto a dirt road clearly going no where. We insisted that he turn around and directed him back onto the section of highway not closed off. It takes about an hour to get out to Listvyanka. When we arrive, we are ready to pay the 1500 rubles as indicated by the app. Our driver had a different idea though, he wanted 2500 rubles. An argument is ensued, one side in Russian, the other in English. In the end we just paid it. What could we do. We were in the backstreets of the small village and not a sole to speak to the same language. If we are going to be ripped off, at least it's only for $20. And I didn't want it to ruin our day. We later learnt from our host that the going rate for a taxi between Irkutsk and Listvyanka is 2000-2500 rubles, that made us feel better.

Our apartment is wonderful. We are about 80m from the lakes edge and slightly elevated. There is a view to the lake from the lounge room and kitchen windows. Our host is friendly and welcoming and offers his assistant to take us to the bus station in a 2 days time. We spend the rest of the afternoon out walking by the lake and exploring the strung out village. By sunset we were enjoying our comfortable accommodation and cooking dinner, quite a novelty after so long.

Lake Baikal is 636km long and 60km wide, shaped like a banana. It is also the world's deepest lake at 1637m. As such, it contains nearly one-fifth of the world's fresh unfrozen water - more than North America's five Great Lakes combined. It is also a living museum of flora and fauna - 80% of which can be found no where else in the world.

We enjoy the best night sleep in a while and wake the next morning early but refreshed. We spend the morning pottering around, catching up on emails, what has been happening in the world and research on future destinations. Late morning, we head off for the walk to the market which is at the far end of the village, a 4km walk along the lake edge. After purchasing some souvenirs and gathering supplies for dinner, we stop for lunch at a cafe and shun the warm indoor seating in favour of a spot on the balcony over the lake in the sun, which is slightly windy and cool. And then the leisurely walk home. A lazy afternoon ensues and another home cooked meal.

The next morning, as promised, Sergei (a different one) arrives to take us to the bus station. He has a beautifully maintained Lada station wagon, which is also a surprisingly smooth ride. The minibuses that ply the route between Irkutsk and Listvyanka don't really have a schedule, they usually depart when close to full. We only had to wait a few minutes before a minibus turned up. We piled on along with about 8 locals and promptly departed again. Numerous stops along the way to drop people off and collect new passengers. It got a bit cramped at times and was standing room only. But an hour later we were safely deposited at the central market in Irkutsk. A cab ride across town and we were back at the train station for our midday train.

We had high expectations for Baikal and it did not disappoint. We really wished we could have stayed longer and have already been chatting about a future back to the serene and picturesque part of the world.

Photos: Lake Baikal

bstess — Mon, 18 Sep 2017 21:00:00 GMT

Photos: Tyumen to Irkutsk

bstess — Sun, 17 Sep 2017 06:50:00 GMT

Leg 11: Tyumen-Irkutsk, 3120km

bstess — Sun, 17 Sep 2017 06:09:00 GMT

This is where it gets real. 50 hours on the train. We were actually looking forward to it!

Fully laden with supplies and drinking water, we boarded the train in high spirits just before dinner time.

After organising our cabin, we waited out on the platform for departure. Here, we met Anael, a Frenchman on a 9 month adventure across Europe, Russia and Asia. End destination - Melbourne. We were jealous! After departing we ate our token included-with-ticket dinner and chatted with Anael. While Steph opted for bed and reading, Bevan and Anael headed off to the dining car for a beer. Here, they met some interesting locals. A very drunk Russian guy, Yurij and a somewhat drunk Russian girl, Svetlana. Steph visited briefly, long enough for a shot of the terrible cheap vodka Yurij insisted on sharing. And Bevan was playing classic Australian tunes for the new friends, cue Land Down Under. Steph headed back to bed and not long after Bevan and Anael also departed the dining car after things got more than a little fresh between Svetlana and Yurij Both boys were a little disturbed by what they had witnessed. Consensus was that Svetlana was actually a 'Lady of the Trans-Siberian'.

Also in our cabin for the evening were two business men, on their way home from work trips. They both spoke a little English and we had brief conversations with them, very friendly. One got off in the middle of the night at Omsk.

The next morning the train stopped in Novosibirsk for an hour. We alighted for a walk around, use of the free wifi in the station to check emails and buy some yoghurt. A good opportunity to stretch the legs. From here, we had two new cabin buddies, 2 young Russian guys, no English. Seemed nice though and there was the standard introductions were one side didn't understand the other. A whole day of nothing awaited us. Reading, sleeping, staring out the window and pondering the dilemma's of life. We ventured to the dining car for lunch. Bevan discovered the fried potatoes, hand cut pieces of goodness, so good! Steph had the eggs with vegetables and boiled potatoes. The afternoon held much of the same as the morning. We both made ourselves cosy on the bottom bunk with a blanket, cups of tea, snacks and our books. Later on it was back to the dining cart for dinner. Friend potatoes all round and Bevan had something that was meant to resemble barbecued pork.

As we were preparing for bed we said goodbye to one of our cabin buddies. At about 10.30pm, we both realised that we were wide awake and sleep was not on the agenda. We said goodbye to Anael at Krasnoyarsk around 12.30am. Our other cabin buddy also departed around 4am. We had the cabin to ourselves, what a sweet feeling! We slept late and there was no urgency to get up except the desire for coffee. We got some awesome Bodum plunger thermos mugs and they have been well worth the space in our backpacks! Coffee anywhere and not of the disgusting freeze-dried variety. The Russians love a hot drink so an urn or kettle is never far away.

Upon waking and gazing out the window from a cosy bed, the scenery has changed. The forest is thick and never-ending. And the autumn colours are in full swing. Golden yellows, fiery reds and creamy bronzes and oranges. What a display nature has put on.

The day much much the same as the one before. It amazes me how quickly time can go by when not doing much at all. We got off for a short walk at a station around the middle of the day, it was freezing! Another lunch and dinner in the dining car and we had the cabin to ourselves all day, bonus! It was only around 5pm that we started to feel the inklings of boredom. It has been a busy year for us (wedding and all) that is was really nice to just sit with this feeling of boredom and relish it. After dinner we had about 90 minutes before our stop. We'd had nice lady couple of days but by the time the train stopped in Irkutsk, we were ready to alight and sleep in a real bed next to each other.

Tyumen

bstess — Thu, 14 Sep 2017 20:50:00 GMT

Founded in 1586, Tyumen is the oldest settlement in Siberia. Today, is is a youthful, business centre for the vast oil region that stretches all the way up to the Arctic. And you can notice that flow of resource funding - the roads are smooth, the city is clean, the buses are new & modern and there is plenty of sleek new construction. Our intention really was just to break the train journey up, however we were pleasantly surprised.

Not long after waking on the train, we found ourselves in sunny clean Tyumen. Bus number 27 took us into town and deposited us near the apartment building. We stood outside the building where the map indicated the apartment was. There was a restaurant on the ground floor but we couldn't see any signs for accommodation. We found a buzzer on the end of the building and thought this must be it. We rang and when the door released, we walked up the stairs to the first floor. We were greeted by 2 men and it quickly became apparent that this was an office, not a hotel. One guy lost interest and walked off, the other was eager to assist the two foreigners who spoke no Russian, yet had made their way to the middle of Russia. He spoke a tiny bit of English. We had a screen shot of the apartment name and address. He looked it up on his phone and called them. The talking seemed to be going on for a little bit. What was going on? We wondered. After what seemed like forever, he hung up and said 'come with me'. We followed him out of the building and around the block to the back of the same building. It was a residential block. He took us to one of the entrance doors and instructed us to wait 10 minutes and then he was gone. Not too long after, two ladies, possibly mother & daughter arrived with arm-fulls of shopping bags. Again lots of Russian, no English. One of them even pulls an eftpos machine out of a shopping bag to indicate we could pay by card. We were taken upstairs to possibly our best apartment. It was a huge 1 bedroom apartment with a full kitchen and lounges. And the godsend for any backpacker - a washing machine. We were grateful that we could check in at 10.30am and made full use of the facilities before finding a local cafe for lunch. By this point, Steph had an awful headache that immediately subsided with a hit a caffeine. A slave to the potion.

After lunch we took a bus across town to the Trinity Monastery. Gold domes top the striking Troitsky Church with its crisp white exterior. It contrasted beautifully with the blue sky, the green of the trees and the bursts of colour from the well-tendered flower beds. In the other corner of the yard is the Peter & Paul Church, from 1927. We strolled along the western end of the fairly new river promenade to a pedestrian bridge, Lovers Bridge. The river is not that wide, but on the southern bank, the construction work has created an impressive and rather high retaining wall. We got the impression that the river height increases significantly with the seasonal flow of water. We crossed the bridge and explored the neighbourhood, viewing the curiously twisted wooden houses. It really was a wonder that people actually live in some of them and that they survive each winter, under layers of snow.

From here, we headed back to the apartment. We were a little tired from the broken sleep on the train the night before and were ready for a rest. Dinner that night was at a German restaurant close to home. There was so much garlic in the food, we will be safe from vampires for weeks!

The next day, check-out was at the generous time of 1pm. We spent the morning organising ourselves for the next train leg, an epic 50 hours. After leaving the apartment, we set up camp in the cafe from the day before and availed ourselves of their services, including free wifi for the next 2.5 hours. A short bus ride back to the station and we were ready for our longest leg of the whole trip. 50 hours on the rails, destination Irkutsk, stepping stone to Lake Baikal.

Photos: Tyumen

bstess — Thu, 14 Sep 2017 19:50:00 GMT

Leg 10: Perm-Tyumen, 562km

bstess — Wed, 13 Sep 2017 11:41:00 GMT

Our train was due for departure at 10.30pm. Having originated in Moscow, it had a 1 hour stop in Perm. We boarded the train shortly after 9.30pm, organised our gear, made up our beds and settled in for the night. A relatively uneventful night ensued. There is something cosy and comforting, being in tucked up in a bunk bed and falling asleep to the sway of the train. Brief semi-wakeful moments during the night and you are lulled back into dreams. A unique and pleasant experience.

Life on the rails is actually not too bad. The Russians have got most things covered. We are travelling second class. The carriage is made up of 9 compartments, each with 4 beds. If you're in third class, it is a 54 bed dormitory style arrangement. There is a toilet at each end of the carriage. There is also a cabin for the Provodnista.

There are no showers onboard, however, there is a staff carriage with showering and ironing facilities. In theory, the Provodnitsa can arrange a visit to this carriage for a few dollars. The Provodnista is the one in charge. Apart from checking tickets, handing out the bed linen, warning you when your stop is close, including waking you in the middle of the night, their main job is to keep the carriage slick and span and keep the samovar/urn full of water. Most are very diligent about this and you'll see them cleaning the toilets, moping the floor by hand, vacuuming and straightening the carpet. Very few will speak any language other than Russian and some sport the most distinctive hairdos you've seen outside a drag queen convention. All look as smart as sergeants in their RZD uniforms and are just as ready to knock you into shape if you step out of line. But being polite, respectful and showing a smile and the Provodnista will do her best to make your journey a pleasant one.

FYI - this is a traditionally female role, however, there are sometimes men, they are Provodnik.

Fresh sheets and pillowcases are handed out after boarding. Depending on what is included in your ticket, you may also receive one meal, shortly after departure. Powerpoints are located in the passage of the carriage, usually 3-4, where you can give electronic goods a splurge of life. There are restaurant carriages where you can buy simple meals and a whole assortment of alcoholic beverages. At every stop there is also plenty of opportunity to shop for food from the platform vendors. The choice of items can be excellent with bread, fresh dairy products, ice cream, grilled chicken, boiled potatoes, local fruit and an assortment of home cooking. Compartment picnics with fellow travellers is common. They start with a fresh cloth being laid across the table and the sum of each persons gathering laid out to share.

In terms of clothing, loose fitting and layered is best. Russian train attire often consists of ultra-loud synthetic track suits, a t-shirt and sandals/flip-flops. We witnessed fully suited businessmen get on the train and minutes later are in their bright tracksuit and slippers. It is considered bad manners to have suits indoors, even in the train. So if you've forgotten your house shoes/slippers, there are disposable ones conveniently provided.

We wake in the morning with enough time for a basic breakfast from our food bag. And while a good portion of the train are still sleeping, we disembark into another Russian city and now officially in Siberia. Good morning Tyumen!

Perm

bstess — Tue, 12 Sep 2017 20:49:00 GMT

We stepped off the train in Perm and what a depressing welcome it was. Raining, wet, grey, drab and miserable. Oh, and cold. We hiked down the platform to the tunnel under the platforms and there was water everywhere. At one point a puddle so large there was no going around it. The trusty guidebook had said trolleybus number 5 runs from the station into town. We didn't have too long to wait and we were on said bus and watching the blue dot on google maps inch closer to the accommodation pin, which was placed half way to the city centre. We arrived at the accommodation and were greeted by a young Russian lady. The key details all explained in efficient Russian. We got the feeling we were no longer going to come across English speakers in Russia. The large room was massive, a little kitchenette and a nice bathroom. Clean and modern. At least if it was going to be miserable outside, we had a nice little haven.

After getting ourselves sorted, we got back on the bus into town. We attempted to find the tourist information office, apparently one existed, but to no avail. We picked up some supplies and headed to dinner. We realised we had not really had lunch on the train and were starving. Upon sitting down for dinner we realised that we felt a little off, like we were still in a moving carriage. We had train sway! Something we had laughed at when Bevan's brother first told us about it.

We had also realised that there was no fridge in the room to store the usual milk and yoghurt we keep in constant supply. Not to worry, we actually had a rather sizeable cool room. Running the length of the room was another room, a balcony, a sunroom, the smoking area or for our purpose the fridge. This room also had double glazed glass to to outside world but it would have been about 5-6 degrees out there. Another layer of double glazed glass and inside our room is was a comfortable 18-20 degrees.

We had nothing planned for the next day, our only goal was to organise how to get 100km out of town to visit the former Perm 36 gulag camp site. We slept in, lazed about, catching up on emails etc in our PJs. Holiday bliss. The weather had improved and after midday we walked into town to a cafe for lunch. The sun was out and everything,looked so much better. It was still cold and a little windy though. While sitting at the cafe eating lunch, Steph looks across the road, and there it is, the tourist info centre, it does exist. The ladies in there gave us a map and some printed instructions on how to get out to Perm 36 on public transport. We then walked around town a little bit and went to look at the river. We walked back to the hotel through the parks and felt more of the disgusting first impression of this town dissipate. We took advantage of the availability of Uber for getting to and from dinner. A few dollars each way, totally worth it. We went to Trip Advisor's and Lonely Planet's top pick of restaurants, Montenegro Grill. Bevan enjoyed a variety of grilled meats while for Steph it was the mixed vegetable grill. Both with a side of fried potato and totally delicious.

For the following day, we actually organised a local guide and driver to take us to two of the attraction of the region - Kungur Ice Caves and Perm-36. Mikhail was a top bloke, the voice of Harrison Ford and definitely had the silver fox look. He picked us up at 7.45am for a big day of driving and touring. We first travelled 123km south-east to Kungur. In the town centre, Mikhail took us to a church with a bell tower that we could climb for a view. In the church, the monks were singing in a low hum and a nun up on a mezzanine level chanting. We sat & took it all in as Mikhail placed a candle and said his prayer. He then took us up the tower for a view of the town and surrounding area and telling us various details. Around the corner was a small public square, with an orb displaying distances to major cities of the world. Sydney - 16100km. We are a long way from home!

Back in the car for a few kilometres out of town to the ice cave complex. We hired big jackets to keep us warm for the duration of the tour. Mikhail handed us over to Anna, a guide with the ice cave and we set off underground. The network of caves stretched for about 5km and about 2km are open to visitors for exploring. The first few grottos are adorned with ice formations, frozen waterfalls and ice sculptures by local artists. The rest of the grottos showcase the beauty of nature with unique rock formations and serene underground lakes. The reflections in crystal clear water tricks your eyes into thinking there is no water there at all. There are lights all the way through the complex , that Anna would flick on and off for each section we passed through. In one of the grottos, there is a Christmas tree. The conditions in the cave are the perfect balance temperature and humidity, that they only replace the tree every 10-12 years. In all, we spent just under 2 hours exploring g the cave network.

Mikhail had arranged lunch for us at the cafe after our tour. A traditional Russian lunch - salad, followed by 3 plates. He even organised for special vegetarian gluten free versions for Steph with the kitchen. And whet we first thought was iced yea, we learnt was boiled fruit water, delicious!

Fed and watered, we piled in the car for the 2hr/185 km drive north to Perm-36 site and museum. Bevan sat up front with Mikhail, listening to his stories and information, while Steph dozed on and off in the back seat.

Whilst Bevan enjoyed talking to Mikhail, he was also harbouring a genuine concern for the standard of driving in Russia. The roads are very bumpy and whenever Mikhail gesticulated with his hands to emphasise a point, both his hands would leave the steering wheel! Bevan grimaced....alot! Added to this was the many occasions of not even questionable, but insanely dangerous driving by Russians, passing on an uphill, and on many occasions watching oncoming traffic rushing towards you, in your own lane whilst hoping that they will get back on their side of the road! Bevan's anguish was quite apparent at times, and at one point Mikhail noticed Bevan squirming, to which he nonchalantly said, " this driving in Russia, it's normal...." OMG we are going to die!

When we arrived at Perm-36, our first thought was "thank goodness we didn't try and get public transport out here by ourselves". We were in the middle of nowhere, a few km's off any main road. We went inside and were greeted by the staff of the museum. Mikhail was our translator as 2 of the staff lead us around for a tour of the site and the museum exhibitions they have set up.

Gulag camps were labour camps for dissidents and those deemed to be work-adverse. Being late for work was sometimes reason enough to be shipped off to the gulag. At Perm-36, countless artists, scientists and intellectuals spent years in the cold damp cells. They worked at mundane tasks such as assembling fasteners and survived on measly portions of bread and gruel. Soviet gulag camps were built of wood and most of them have simply retreated back in to the taiga and tundra. However, Perm-36 has survived, mostly intact. There has been some restoration work and a small museum set up with information on the gulag system as a whole. This was a somber lesson of what life was like in the Soviet Union. And to make if feel even more real, we learnt from Mikhail, that his father spent 10 years of his young adult life in a gulag near Magadan, in the east. He shared with us stories from his father and other former prisoners that he has met.

When we returned back to the outskirts of Perm, Mikhail said we had made it back in good time and asked if we wanted to see a display of Russian artillery & tanks. Bevan's eyes light up. Yes! The little museum was closed but the yard displaying all the big toys is always open. From rocket launchers to missiles and the tanks. What an impressive sight! There was a young family with a little boy who climbed up on one of the tanks and declared 'pow pow pow!' Boys are the same the world over.

Mikhail took us back to town, and we made the first of two dinner stops. Southern fried chicken for Bevan and a vegetarian cafe for Steph. Both super cheap eats. We collected our bags from the hotel and took an uber to the train station.

In the end Perm turned out to be pretty good. We were glad to learn about the gulag system and go to the caves. Now for a quite overnight jaunt to our next destination.

Photos: Perm

bstess — Tue, 12 Sep 2017 16:29:00 GMT

Photos: Moscow to Perm

bstess — Sun, 10 Sep 2017 19:33:00 GMT

Leg 9: Moscow-Perm, 1434km

bstess — Sun, 10 Sep 2017 17:24:00 GMT

The start of the trains-Siberian line and our first overnight train. We were excited!

Departure was at the civilised time of 5pm and given the security process we experienced at other stations, we arrived with plenty of time.

The train pulled into the platform and there was a flurry of activity as people collected their bags and set off down the platform in search of their carriage. Boarding was easy, the Provodnitsa, carriage attendant, checks our tickets and passports and ushers aboard. The 4-berth compartment is cosy and we set about organising our luggage. There is space under the bottom bunks and above the doorway for the upper bunks. For all of our journeys we have booked 1 upper and 1 lower berth, so we have half the compartment and can both sit on the bottom bunk during the day. The top bunks are made up with fresh linen. The bottom bunks are in seat mode, and the bed layer (also made up with linen) folds down with the flick of latch. We're all set and an older lady joins our compartment, maybe of 55-60 years old, possibly a babushka. She is sweet and continues a send a stream of Russian conversation our way. She is very surprised at how far away from home we are. We watch in discreet fascination at the routine she has for organising her things. Not long after departure, the food cart attendant comes by to take our order for dinner, the choice is chicken, pork or mushroom with rice. In the meantime, Babushka, rolls out a cloth on the table and pulls out chocolate, apple, tomatoes and cucumber. She was insistent to share it all and we thought is would be rude not to take part. Bevan pulled out the small bottle of vodka we had brought for the journey. We realised that the plastic stopper would not come out and we needed a utensil to get it out. Babushka found the carriage attendant, who took the bottle away for 10 minutes and when she came back the stopper had been removed with a corkscrew. We didn't have any cups as the plan was for us to sip out of the bottle. But we wanted to offer Babushka some. We showed her the bottle and motioned to have some. She instructed us to take the lids off our drinking water bottles and we would shot out of the lids. Ingenious! Down the hatch, and it was rough! We all grimaced and then laughed about how terrible it was. We had another shot anyway. Bevan sipped away a little more over the course of the evening.

There seemed to be whole story about the block of chocolate, a smooth dark variety, but we had no idea. Babushka then indicated that we should keep the block, as a present. So kind!

Half an hour later, packages of food arrive complete with packet containing cutlery, salt & pepper, a bottle of water, sweet treat and a mint. The food was simple but unexpected that our ticket included it at all.

Babushka showed me the train schedule posted in the corridor. I learnt that we would be stopping in the town of Vladimir at 7.35pm for 50 minutes. A few moments later, Babushka was not content that I understood her story. She continued speaking and I think it was about churches. She left the compartment and came back with a young Russian lady who spoke some English. What Babushka wanted to tell us what that when the train stopped at Vladimir, we should get off the train and go and see the nice churches in the town. The young lady explained that the churches were quite nice and we needed to walk up the hill to the left after leaving the train station. Sounded like an adventure! We got ourselves ready and waited for the stop. Babushka, now satisfied we had all the info, climbed into bed and went to sleep.

At 7.35pm, we got off the train, walked across the tracks (which seemed to be the Russian way) and out through the small station building. We saw one of the churches up on hill and headed in that direction. A 10 minute walk up the hill and we reached a small white stone church - the cathedral of St Dmitry. Built between 1193 and 1197, the exterior of the church is covered in an amazing profusion of images carved of the stone. What a beauty! Another few minutes along the road we find the large Assumption Cathedral. It is set high up on a buff and what we spotted from the train station below. It is striking, with crisp white stone and shiny gold domes. Also from the 12th century. We spend a few moments at a look-out overlooking the town, which also seems to be the spot for young couples to share a kiss or two.

Conscious of the time, we head back down the hill and to the train station. We are back with 10 minutes to spare, the Provodnitsa is on the platform in her official uniform and hat and smiles at us as we get back on the train. Thanks Babushka, that was great, unexpected little adventure. We climb into bed and fall asleep to the swaying of the carriage.

We spend the next day lazily ready, dozing and staring out the window. These trains are much slower and amble through the countryside with plenty of time to take it all in. We stop at a station around late-morning for 20 minutes and we get off into the grey drizzle to check out the small station and watch the locomotive being changed. Back on the train and Babushka lays out the food again, including a parcel of boiled potatoes that she had brought on the platform. Time to doze again...

We arrive in Perm around 4pm local time, having shifted 2 hours forward of Moscow time. We are greeted by a drab, grey, miserable and rainy sight. Fingers crossed this only confined to the train station area of town.

Moscow

bstess — Sat, 9 Sep 2017 23:03:00 GMT

The capital city and the home of Russia's government. And what we also discovered, a clean, well maintained city with a definite European feel. The traffic is horrendous though. Moscow is very proud of its Metro system and it's also the most efficient way to get around.

Our host, Sergei, offered to pick us up from the train station. What hospitality! We thought maybe we would be travelling via metro, however Sergei arrived in a small hatchback. A light game of tetras with out luggage and we slid off into the traffic.

We really have been super lucky with our Airbnb accommodation so far. And this round was no different. Sergei is a wonderful and welcoming Host! He rents out 4 of the rooms in his massive 5-bed apartment. The whole place has been renovated in a modern hipster type style, with exposed brick feature walls and minimalist/functional furniture and accessories. Both bathrooms, side by side, had a massive shower with a large rain shower head and heated floors, luxury!

We got settled and then headed off to get aquainted with the Metro. We needed to go a few suburbs north to collect train tickets for a later leg of our journey, as you can't buy Russian international train tickets online. We had arranged for someone locally to buy our tickets from Ulan Ude to Ulaanbatar at a station. On the way back to the apartment with found a lovely grocery store and stocked up on supplies for the next few days as well as some tasty ready-made meals for dinner. It was still raining and perfect weather to just chill out at home.

We woke up the next morning feeling super lazy and really just happy to be doing not much at all. We were now 4 weeks into our trip and quite a large part of that taken up with solid sightseeing. We wanted some time out. We had sightseeing fatigue. We were not even really interested in planning what we wanted to go see/do. The only thing on the list was the Kremlin, which being a Thursday, was closed. That was tomorrow's agenda. So what to do today? Oh, I don't know...

Eventually, around 1pm, we left the house and walked down to the city centre to check out Red Square and St Basil's Cathedral. We were a little disappointed to find a temporary stadium set up in Red Square which obstructed the grandness of the space and the ability to stand in the middle and view both ends at the same time. The north-west end is lined by State Historical Museum and the south-east end by colourful St Basil's. Oh well, we would need to be creative and imagine this. Another short walk and we were at Marketplace, just like the one in St Petes, for a late lunch. To cap off our cruisy day, we went one metro stop to check out what Sergei had recommended as the most beautiful Metro station. There are over 150 stations throughout the city and many are grand elegant beauties with marble facing, frescos and gilded works of art.

The Moscow Metro is not only one of the best in the world but has to be most beautiful.

Day 2 was to a day to explore the Kremlin. Red square and the Kremlin are the historical, geographic and spiritual heart of Moscow and have been for nearly 900 years. The Kremlin is the kernel of Moscow and the whole country. We started off by deciphering the system on how to buy tickets for each of the individual sections inside the Kremlin. Tickets to some sections are sold for timelsots, to regulate the flow of people through the popular areas, but are only available 45mins prior to the time slot. And there is only one ticket office for the whole site. We secured tickets to the Armoury for 1pm. And then to a different line to buy tickets for the general site and churches. This ticket is valid for anytime so we headed off to check out the grounds and churches. As you enter through Trinity Gate Tower you certainly get the impression you are entering somewhere powerful and important. As you can imagine, the whole site is impeccably maintained and well presented. First up was the Assumption Cathedral, apparently the most important church in pre-revolutionary Russia and dates back to the 15th century. Next, Archangel Cathedral, where centuries of tsars and tsarinas are laid to rest. And lastly, Annunication Cathedral with an overwhelming amount of iconography. All 3 cathedrals are rich with beautiful colourful frescos. Out in the yard is home to the oversize tsar cannon and bell, both of which are too large to serve their intended purpose. After a picnic lunch in the gardens, we headed off to the Armoury, founded in 1511 to manufacture and store weapons, imperial arms and regalia for the royal court. Later on, it also produced jewellery, icon frames and embroidery. We ogled the treasures while listening to the supplied audio guide. Definitely a highlight was one of the last rooms where Royal carriages are displayed. Ranging from the early 17th century through to the 20th century and such a grand display of prestige and beauty.

We did go back to the ticket office to enquiry about tickets to Ivan the Great Bell Tower. Unfortunately, it is forbidden to climb the bell tower in the rain. And given the overcast weather and impending threat of rain we were told that it unlikely that we would be allowed to climb to the viewing platform in the tower. We were absolutely spent from being in the crowds all day so were more than happy to call it quits for the day. Before heading home, we stopped by the tomb of the unknown soldier and paid our respects.

Our last day in Moscow was a Saturday, Parkrun day! Moscow has about 20 park runs to choose from. We chose one in Gorky Park, Moscow's main escape from the city. We trekked across town on the subway and arrived in plenty of time for 9am start. There were a out 30 other runners and we received a warm welcome. A nice course on the banks of the river and plenty of other people out and a out being active. Despite the cold and being totally unfit, we had a great morning out. Upon returning to our neighbourhood, the main roads and most side streets were closed in preparation for the big party to celebrate Moscow's birthday - 870 official years. It was a little every to walk down the middle of an 8 lane main road that is normally packed with traffic.

We returned to the apartment and had a great chat with our host while we cooked and ate breakfast/lunch. We had a few hours to kill before heading to the train station, so we wandered around and soaked up the atmosphere of all the celebrations. Steph also stopped for massive lunch despite only eating breakfast at 11.30am!

All-in-all, Moscow was a great stop off our adventure. We saw the sights we wanted but also had some well-needed down time.

Photos: Moscow

bstess — Sat, 9 Sep 2017 20:58:00 GMT