The start of the trains-Siberian line and our first overnight train. We were excited!
Departure was at the civilised time of
5pm and given the security process we experienced at other stations, we arrived with plenty of time.
The train pulled into the platform and there was a flurry of activity as people collected their bags and set off down the platform in search of their carriage. Boarding was easy, the Provodnitsa, carriage attendant, checks our tickets and passports and ushers aboard. The 4-berth compartment is cosy and we set about organising our luggage. There is space under the bottom bunks and above the doorway for the upper bunks. For all of our journeys we have booked 1 upper and 1 lower berth, so we have half the compartment and can both sit on the bottom bunk during the day. The top bunks are made up with fresh linen. The bottom bunks are in seat mode, and the bed layer (also made up with linen) folds down with the flick of latch. We're all set and an older lady joins our compartment, maybe of 55-60 years old, possibly a babushka. She is sweet and continues a send a stream of Russian conversation our way. She is very surprised at how far away from home we are. We watch in discreet fascination at the routine she has for organising her things. Not long after departure, the food cart attendant comes by to take our order for dinner, the choice is chicken, pork or mushroom with rice. In the meantime, Babushka, rolls out a cloth on the table and pulls out chocolate, apple, tomatoes and cucumber. She was insistent to share it all and we thought is would be rude not to take part. Bevan pulled out the small bottle of vodka we had brought for the journey. We realised that the plastic stopper would not come out and we needed a utensil to get it out. Babushka found the carriage attendant, who took the bottle away for 10 minutes and when she came back the stopper had been removed with a corkscrew. We didn't have any cups as the plan was for us to sip out of the bottle. But we wanted to offer Babushka some. We showed her the bottle and motioned to have some. She instructed us to take the lids off our drinking water bottles and we would shot out of the lids. Ingenious! Down the hatch, and it was rough! We all grimaced and then laughed about how terrible it was. We had another shot anyway. Bevan sipped away a little more over the course of the evening.
There seemed to be whole story about the block of chocolate, a smooth dark variety, but we had no idea. Babushka then indicated that we should keep the block, as a present. So kind!
Half an hour later, packages of food arrive complete with packet containing cutlery, salt & pepper, a bottle of water, sweet treat and a mint. The food was simple but unexpected that our ticket included it at all.
Babushka showed me the train schedule posted in the corridor. I learnt that we would be stopping in the town of Vladimir
at 7.35pm for 50 minutes. A few moments later, Babushka was not content that I understood her story. She continued speaking and I think it was about churches. She left the compartment and came back with a young Russian lady who spoke some English. What Babushka wanted to tell us what that when the train stopped at Vladimir, we should get off the train and go and see the nice churches in the town. The young lady explained that the churches were quite nice and we needed to walk up the hill to the left after leaving the train station. Sounded like an adventure! We got ourselves ready and waited for the stop. Babushka, now satisfied we had all the info, climbed into bed and went to sleep.
At 7.35pm, we got off the train, walked across the tracks (which seemed to be the Russian way) and out through the small station building. We saw one of the churches up on hill and headed in that direction. A 10 minute walk up the hill and we reached a small white stone church - the cathedral of St Dmitry. Built between 1193 and 1197, the exterior of the church is covered in an amazing profusion of images carved of the stone. What a beauty! Another few minutes along the road we find the large Assumption Cathedral. It is set high up on a buff and what we spotted from the train station below. It is striking, with crisp white stone and shiny gold domes. Also from the 12th century. We spend a few moments at a look-out overlooking the town, which also seems to be the spot for young couples to share a kiss or two.
Conscious of the time, we head back down the hill and to the train station. We are back with 10 minutes to spare, the Provodnitsa is on the platform in her official uniform and hat and smiles at us as we get back on the train. Thanks Babushka, that was great, unexpected little adventure. We climb into bed and fall asleep to the swaying of the carriage.
We spend the next day lazily ready, dozing and staring out the window. These trains are much slower and amble through the countryside with plenty of time to take it all in. We stop at a station around late-morning for 20 minutes and we get off into the grey drizzle to check out the small station and watch the locomotive being changed. Back on the train and Babushka lays out the food again, including a parcel of boiled potatoes that she had brought on the platform. Time to doze again...
We arrive in Perm around
4pm local time, having shifted 2 hours forward of Moscow time. We are greeted by a drab, grey, miserable and rainy sight. Fingers crossed this only confined to the train station area of town.
