Stef and I are actually quite silly and often a bit panicky when it comes to low tide but we decide to go anyway, besides we’re with Neil, our Aussie friend who’s been diving and snorkeling for yonks. He’s told us loads about the local reef; what to look out for, what to avoid, etc. He’s also determined to teach me how to swim properly - I spent a lot of time in their pool back in Cebu city trying to learn.
So, we all dip into the water at low tide, Neil holding my snorkel, wading through the shallow water. The water is so shallow it’s impossible to swim through, which is troublesome because it means you risk stepping on coral, urchins and such. Not good. But then we always wear rock shoes, so it shouldn’t be a problem for us but obviously it’s not great for the coral (and later as this blog goes on I will mention about what appears to be coral cemeteries around Tongo point).
Anyway, what with trying not to step on coral and Neil gallivanting away with my snorkel right into the deep water, I kinda get pissed off with the situation and decide to head back to the shore, but Stef stops me and encourages me on, close enough to snatch my snorkel from Neil’s crafty paws (think he thought I was too chicken to go to the reefs edge and was in need of luring).
Neil, of course, glides off at high speed, expecting us to follow. Except, like I mentioned before, Stef and I can often be a little bit dim. We panic about the water being too shallow and hover about a rock, getting bobbed about by the strong current and increasingly agitated. As we don’t know where the reef edge starts, we lose confidence in going any further. Neil is nowhere to be seen and what with Stef glued to his rock, I decide to call it a day and wade back through the shallow water to shore.
When I get back to shore I notice that there are many Filipino’s in the water just pass the next jetty so I make my way over, looking over my shoulder to Stef, who is still glued to his rock. I try and get over the jetty to the other side of the shore but am put off by a heap of what appears to be rotting coconuts. The jetty is too high and rocky to jump so I turn to go back but as I do I see a Filipino girl come bounding out of the water towards me. Without a flinch, barefooted she climbs up the pile of rotting coconuts to help me down wearing a large bemused smile.
“Hey, come in the water with me,” she grins, her snorkel dangling from her neck, which I notice has the faint appearance of an Adams apple.
I double check the little swim skirt she’s wearing, straining to detect the masculinity behind her voice. My curiosity gets the better of me and before I know it I’m following the flowing curls of “Ella’s” swim skirt, her bare feet gracefully stepping on bulbous coral as she passes it. And then there’s the open valley of coral before us, a deep cavernous space with fish longer than my arms. It really does switch quite abruptly, from very shallow to extremely deep. I suddenly come to my senses and realize that I’ve never been this far out before- stupidly I start to panic and tell Ella that I’m going back. I think she senses my panic cause she say’s-
“If you can’t swim, I’ll carry you”
Bless her.
I feel like a big twat and continue following Ella’s dainty feet, passing a long forgotten fishing rope snaking through the depths.
“I think I should swim to my boyfriend- he’s stuck on that rock” I point. She nods in agreement (I’m sure she’ll be glad to be shot of me). We swim over an awesome cavern, where the rock is high enough to stand on and be above water; always a comfort. Beyond that, we’re soon confronted by Stef’s big feet, attached like an urchin to his rock.
After a hurried introduction, we are on our way again, back into the deep, Stef glad to get away from his rock and probably bored stiff. Together we swim over the valley and watch the abundance of life there. Neil appears from where I don’t know. He and Stef swim off someplace and later I find out they spotted a lion fish; Stef couldn’t see it in focus without his glasses on, but a tremendous find nonetheless.
It’s a taste of things to come and we’re both reminded of just why we’ve come here. There’s definitely something addictive about reef water; enough diversity to keep you amused for a lifetime.