So, we’ve decided to rent a house by the sea at Tongo Point. It’s not exactly what we had in mind as we’re sharing with the owner (Linda), her boyfriend (Alfon), maid (Manna or Flora or Grandma) and two dogs (Duppy and Chocolate). It’s also a bit off the beaten track, with Moal Boal a good 40 minute walk away through some very rural, undeveloped track…
Choice wasn’t exactly abundant in terms of rentals in Panagsama like we had at first hoped, so we had to search a little further afield. We looked at loads of places but were miserably disappointed. The first place we saw was full of rat shit; toilet complete with resident cockroach.
We were ferried around on a trike by Don Don (who later ripped us off by over charging us for the ride) to look at various “nippa” huts and cottages. Most of the places he showed us were pretty hopeless and we began to lose faith in the whole idea of renting in Panagsama.
Eventually Don Don takes us out of Panagsama and down a very long winding dirt track. We have no idea where he is taking us and worry that the place we are going will be too isolated, but we sit tight (literally) and keep our fingers crossed. On the way we pass many small huts hosting large families, dogs, chickens and all manner of farm life. It’s also fiesta time and just as we approach Linda’s house we come across a huge gathering of Filipinos making merry and preparing for a cock fight. I think this both intrigues and unsettles us. On one hand we feel very isolated and far from the safety net of being in a resort; on the other we feel like we could actually experience authentic Filipino life if we stay here, rather than staying somewhere which revolves around tourism etc.
We arrive at the gates to be greeted by excited barks from Chocolate and Duppy. Linda shakes her head at Don Don as if to say there’s no room at the inn or something, but before we know it we’re off the trike and hurried through the gates.
The place is beautiful, there’s no doubt about it and although the owners live there, they have their own separate living quarters. The room we are shown is spacious and clean and complete with an ensuite. The view from the terrace is exactly what we wanted- to the right clear blue bay waters. Looking beyond the glass like water, you can see right across the island; bobbled green mountains reminiscent of the Sila tombs back in Gyeong-ju, S Korea. This is not to mention the grounds of the property which are also very scenic- lush lawns, tropical flowers; all kept in pristine condition by Manna, Linda’s maid (or adopted mother as I am now beginning to understand). More on Manna later…
Both Linda and Alfon seem to be perfectly nice and accommodating. The monthly rent is a bit more than we bargained for, but is still considerably cheap for what we would be getting; which is plenty of private grassland, jetty and bay, perfect for walking down for a dive or snorkel. However, we don’t take the place straight away and decide to look around Panagsama at some other options. We tell Linda we’ll get back to her and head back to Panagsama on Don Don’s trike unaware that we are about to be faced with a ridiculous fare.
Still, we can’t complain, as we are back in paradise and soon drown our sorrows by floating aimlessly over the local reef. Of course it’s been a while since we last went snorkeling, so we’re a little apprehensive with our new gear (which we got for a good price in Cebu city with help from our aussie friend an expat, Neil)…
