Shopping for Lederhosen
CHINA | Monday, 31 December 2007 | Views [2130]
Jubilation and beer flowed through my body in equal proportions and
I could tell my new-found friends felt the same way as we thrust our
heavy steins together for the umpteenth time. Beer spilled everywhere
but it didn’t matter. We were standing in an oasis of merriment, joined
to celebrate life!
On October 12th 1810 Price Ludwig married
Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen in Munich, Germany, and held
a grand festival to celebrate the union. It was the excitement of the
horse races at this celebration that persuaded the Munich locals to
continue the festival in subsequent years. A quick thought about those
trend-setting horses smeared a smile across my face as I took a moment
to embrace my surroundings. The festival has taken on a vastly
different form since it’s inception in 1810 and is now commonly called
Oktoberfest! Before I get carried away with details about my euphoria,
let me back up and share with you, my story
Oktoberfest is
one of the most well known and commendably embracing celebrations in
the world. As luck would have it, I found myself standing in the
Munich train station preparing to join in the festivities, ideas of
what the fest had in store for me running wild through my mind. An
overnight train ride from Paris put me there at around 7am. My first
sight to behold was a group of teens running through the station decked
out in traditional German lederhosen. “I’ve got to get some of those!”
My long-time friend Jake and I uttered the words simultaneously as we
both stared wide-eyed and straight ahead. The desire for lederhosen
became a mission. Jake and I spent a substantial portion of that day
darting from store to store looking for the perfect pair of suede
shorts and suspenders; which of course, meant the cheapest. We were
disheartened to discover that the average price of an outfit was in the
200-250 Euro range. However, we remained diligent and patient, which
wasn’t easy considering the state of excitement gripping all of Munich
at that point. Stripping down to underwear among the crowds of packed
stores, we sifted through and modeled what felt like hundreds of wares
before stumbling upon a slightly less expensive used lederhosen shop.
For 100 Euros I purchased a pair of green, grease stained shorts, two
sizes too big for me. My suspenders held up the bulky, uncomfortable
bottoms and I looked much more like a deadbeat clown than a traditional
German. Yes, I think I can safely say they were the perfect pair.
It
was a hot day and by this time the sweat was soaking through my shirt.
Crowds engulfed most of downtown Munich, which made the heat seem
worse, but it didn’t matter. I was having a ball shopping for my
lederhosen! A pair of knee high socks, a linen shirt, and an orange
handkerchief completed my particular costume. Jake went with a pair
of three-quarter pants looking equally stained and delightfully
ancient. Observing ourselves in the mirror, hands on hips, chests
pushed out, I remember hoping that the Germans would not take our
costumes as an insult …… two stupid Americans making a mockery of their
sacred festival.
After our four hour lederhosen escapade, we
made a quick stop to check into our hotel. As fate would have it, we
ran into our good friend George, who was living in Bologna, Italy at the
time. He was standing at the front desk asking for Jake (Barry). I
remember hearing the response from the concierge and laughing. “Well,
we do have a Dr. Barry checked in.” For some reason, Jake had given
his name simply as “Dr. Barry” when we checked in. Don’t ask me why
because I don’t have an answer. He certainly doesn’t have a PHD of any
sort.
After a short reunion we refocused our thoughts on what
was important, and that was getting to the fest as quickly as
possible. On the crowded train ride there was a particularly friendly
(drunk) old German man eager to help me properly tie my handkerchief
around my neck. I was a bit nervous letting his shaky hands get so
close to my throat. His reddened, glazed over eyes were trying to
looking in every direction at once. Luckily, no harm was done and we
arrived at the festivities just in time for the drinking. I have to
say my first feeling was one of disappointment. The place looked like
a county fair from back home. There were rides for children, carnival
games, and large stuffed animals floating through the crowds. I was
expecting red-faced Germans, singing folk songs while spilling beer
over tables made of ancient oak. It wasn’t until we found our way into
the beer tents that we discovered what we had been looking for.
An
entire cow roasting on a spit was first to greet me. It sat adjacent
to the hundreds of chickens spinning on a rotisserie. The open
interior of the tent was packed to the teeth with what must have been
more than two thousand people. The tables were hidden beneath a mass
of bodies sitting, standing, dancing, swaying on every inch of their
beer soaked surfaces. I was in heaven along with so many others who
had arrived to share this blissful feeling with me! Pushing our way
through the mayhem, I felt a harsh thud between my shoulder blades
followed by the pleasant feeling of a quickly soaking shirt. I
instinctively turned in the confusion and was faced by a woman standing
a good two inches taller than me, wearing a low cut German dress, and
holding more glass mugs than I thought humanly possible. She quickly
pushed her way around me and I was barely noticed. She barreled
through the crowd in a way that was so practiced, it appeared
graceful. Jake and I saw this as a golden opportunity and ducked
behind her in order to navigate the swarm more easily. She was like a
plow and people in her way were a freshly laid patch of light, fluffy
snow.
We eventually found a small section of delightfully
sticky benches to sit on. Little time was wasted and we secured our
beers in a jiffy. A sense of accomplishment engulfed us as we raised
our glasses in triumph. After surviving the gauntlet of lederhosen
shopping, drunken Germans, and hefty beer wenches, we finally had the
chance to take pleasure in what any respectable person comes to
Oktoberfest to do…… drink beer!
As this lifeblood flowed
through us, and on the table in front of us, we were all swept away in
the excitement felt by each and every person in attendance. The band,
raised on a platform in the center of the tent played an amusing mix of
music, from traditional German drinking songs to “Take Me Home, Country
Road.” After the same song played twelve to thirteen times in
succession we usually picked up on the lyrics and joined in with the
screaming masses. An unbelievable aura of contentment gripped the
entire place. Neither frown nor spark of anger was to be seen. It was
like we were all long lost friends finally coming together after years
apart, and having a celebration of epic proportions to rejoice in our
reunion.
Some time later – unknown to anyone for all I could
tell – Jake and I took our beers and cracking voices elsewhere.
Needless to say, at this point we were feeling a tad dizzy and of
course lost each other among the increasingly crowding streets. This,
at the time, did not seem like a large dilemma to me and I moved on
without missing a beat, befriending what must have been over a
hundred other joyous visitors from around the globe. It was effortless
to let the welcoming aura of the place sink down deep. Oktoberfest is
the type of celebration that makes a person feel glad to be human. I
navigated the mob for another couple of hours, spending a few minutes
with each group or individual, sharing a drink, a story, and a laugh.
Tired, dizzy, and particularly satisfied, I made the decision to head
back to the hotel. This was our rendezvous point in case we were to
lose each other.
I made it about one hundred meters away from
the hotel when I heard a voice yell from across the street, “Hey, where
are you going in that silly outfit?!” I turned to see a group of
Americans we had met earlier that day. They were from New York and on
a particularly intense mission to maximize their time in Munich. They
were headed downtown for some more drinks and I blissfully joined
them. Finding my friend seemed to take a back seat for the moment.
The theme of succumbing to a “no worries” state of mind appeared to be
encompassing everyone’s thoughts. I decided to surrender as well and
just “go with the flow.” A fun night out in the city among the
stunning buildings of downtown Munich was what it took to finally tire
me out. I wandered back to the hotel, walked into the dark room and
crashed the moment my face hit the pillow.
It wasn’t until
the next morning that I realized Jake had not come home. As I milled
over what to do in my foggy head, there was a knock at the door.
Looking through the peephole, I saw the disheveled visage of my friend
staring blankly. Opening the door, there was a good ten second pause
as we looked, expressionless, at each other as if to ask, “What the
hell happened yesterday?” I nearly cracked a laugh as I took in this
funny scene. It was about 11am; we were both still wearing our
beloved, oversized, beer-soaked lederhosen and not smelling much better
than we looked. Jake broke the silence, “Should we go see what’s
happening at the fest?”
“Yup!” I answered without even letting
him finish the sentence. I stepped out into the hallway, closed the
door behind me and off we went. This time we knew exactly what awaited
us …… an ongoing, ever-joyous celebration building bridges across
social and cultural barriers; a place where everyone is truly glad to
see you.
Tags: festivals, party time, travel