I'm in Sarnath now, a town just an hour north of Varanasi--Buddha gave his first teaching here after he reached enlightenment. Sarnath is full of temples and stupas and monks and in an odd way, it reminds me of Colorado...probably because I have visited stupas and shrines and Shambala centers in Colorado. I'm happy to spend my last couple days here, outside of the Varnasi madness. I'm staying in a tiny guesthouse which usually has no electricity or running water...but the lady of the house makes wonderful jam and fresh bread! And there is a nice garden with hibiscus flowers and tomato plants. My room is a tiny bungalow on the roof. It's very simple, but i like it, and I sleep under a blue lace mosquito net. Sarnath has trees and shade and some green grass to sit on and for that I am so happy! During my travels up to this point, I've only been in dirty cities and i didn't see any parks or green places to sit down. But here in Sarnath, you can actually SMELL the freshness of the earth from time to time. I'm feeling really lucky to have grown up and lived around of trees and open land and greeness and freshness. I feel so bad for the people who live on the streets of Delhi and other cities in India...literally camped out on the disgusting median of the road, surrounded by cars and pollution and poop and pee and noise...not a tree in sight.