WE SPENT OUR LAST MORNING AT ARENAL in the spectacular gardens amidst sparking hummingbirds and inquisitive coatis. But the highlight was a visit from the resident margay. For birders we were unusually attracted to this beautiful cat, certainly on friend to the avian population.
Birding in the Rain
The road to Monteverde, a mile high along the Continental Divide, hasn’t improved in the decade since we drove it in our Subaru. The only difference between the Caribbean side and the highlands was the temperature. The cloud forest drips constantly, except when it’s raining — then it gushes. The abundance and diversity of species in Monteverde is due more to changes in height than in distance. A difference of only two hundred meters in altitude means new plant species and an entire cast change of birds.
Resplendent Quetzal
It is extra dark under the canopy, so seeing the shy, ground-dwelling birds takes patience. Getting decent photos requires charms, spells and incantations coupled with phenomenal bits of luck. My frustration was assuaged, at least partially, by the fantastic food at Hotel de Montague. Except for “no frills” La Selva, the meals have approached gourmet status and the rooms rate several stars. Montague even had satellite TV so we could watch post-season baseball — or beisbol, since it was a Spanish broadcast.
Truly Resplendent
The second day at Monteverde was in turn foggy, cloudy, raining, sunny, raining, cloudy, pouring, and so on and so on. Seeing and photographing the many birds was as demanding as I have seen — with one exception. Two Resplendent Quetzals posed in the sunshine for half an hour. We have seen many colorful birds with equally colorful names: SPLENDID Starling, LOVELY Fairy Wren. MAGNIFICENT Frigatebird. ELEGANT Trogon. But none deserves its name more than the RESPLENDENT QUETZAL.
Howler Monkey
As a reward for yesterday’s quetzals we got to sleep in and didn’t start birding until six! Even more rewarding, it was sunny-ish, making for some nice sitings and OK photos. Connie and I are hampered by our aversion to being pushed, shoved and stepped in front of, so we usually stand behind the group or angle for a different view. Generally we’ve seen the species before and sometimes already have good photos. Today I never got a look at the long-tailed manikin; either the bird moved before I could focus or I was out-jostled. Usually by the same two people. (You know who you are.)
