THE NIRIKALA FORTRESS, SO SCENIC FROM BELOW, in reality is just some crumbling walls high above the town. But it affords the best view of Tbilisi — the Old Town and Peace Bridge, the hammam and Mother Georgia. The cable car ride up from Rike Park is worth the dollar charge and the walk down is steep, but pleasant.
For whom the bell tolls
A stroll down Bamba Row in Old Town takes you past restaurants, cafes, shisha bars and lots of street sculpture. Somehow we timed it right, arriving at the leaning tower at Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater a few minutes before noon. While a hammer-wielding angel glided out to clang the hour, a young couple emerged below, followed by their ever aging selves in different stages of their lives — parenthood, maturity, old age and . . . . Time marches on.
Lamplighter
So did we, eventually leaving the old city for Freedom Square and a newer Tbilisi. Although not as modern as Baku, Rustaveli Street shaded by sycamores, has many of the same designer stores, Parlaiment, the opera and great people watching, so different than the narrow twisting alleyways of Old Town. Something for everyone.
Rustaveli Street
