We wake again to stunning views before heading down towards the valley. We’ve stopped following the high ridge now and today will make our way down to the valley and up the other side. With the sun beating down we start the descent and drop rapidly for the first few hours. It was nice to go down for a while but this novelty quickly gives way to jarring knees. It wouldn’t be so bad if we didn’t have to go all the way back up again later in the day.
The porters continue to take all terrain easily in their stride without breaking a sweat. Which is admirable but also a little frustrating when we try and gauge what lies ahead. Any question concerning the next part of the track is always answered with a nonchalant ‘little bit up’ or ‘little but down’. This is basis of the ‘Nepalese flat’ pattern which we’ve been on since day one.
By lunch we’ve descended down almost to the river, which is beautiful, inviting and freezing. As much as I would love to cleanse the thick layer of dirt I’ve been accumulating over the last four days it’s too cold to bear.
Lunch is an impressive smorgasbord of meat and veg with tea and cold drinks. All the meals thus far have been well beyond my expectations. I expected the first day or so to be good but as we continued I thought the standard might drop as the heavy cans and luxury items are eaten up but it’s continued to be great. There is however something about camping and walking all day that seems to make all food taste good. Even the chucky curries eaten by fading candlelight are a delight and always good for debate over the mysterious meat (goat? buffalo?)
We climb back up the eastern side of the river through the now more numerous little farming villages. The sun is starting to set as we reach the small village of Patikharka. It’s a beautiful spot on a large plateau surrounded by the snow capped peaks to the north and dropping away steeply to the valley to the south.
There’s a local school nearby which for most of the group is what we expected the Saramthali School to be like. It’s a small single room building with a thatch roof and looks like the sort of building that we might be within our capabilities to renovate.
The highlight of the night at this campsite is one of the local kids who takes an interest in photography. I gave him my digital SLR camera and after 30 seconds of instructions he’s off taking portraits of his friends and family (as you can see in the photos on this journal). I’m amazed at how quickly he masters the zooming and playback.
Dinner tonight is full of expectations for tomorrow and the arrival at the school. We’ve been concentrating so much on blisters, sore backs and knees that the school and the whole purpose of the trip has been in the background these last couple of days.
