The travelling coconut

Before Phnom Penh woke up in the morning, I hopped on the bus. Nervous and excited, I was travelling to a Mekong island for the tourism development project. “Bamboo sticky rice?” a Khmer woman pushed a bundle of bamboo tubes towards the window. Very confidently, she peeled off the bamboo skin and the tasty smell of sticky rice mixed with coconut milk and red beans intrigued my stomach. What a perfect breakfast for a bus journey, I thought.

I got two tubes and the bus hit the road. The warm sticky rice put me to a sweet nap. Time tiptoed away quietly. The bus stopped at Kratie town. Along the river bank, tables and chairs were laid out neatly. Vendors were boiling rice soups and making fruit shakes. Locals were digging eggs, as if there were treasure inside. The vendor agilely laid out a set in front of me: grilled eggs, a plate of fresh mint leaves and lemon, a dish of fish sauce mixed with pepper and a spoon. She taught me to dig the egg and drink the soup. My tongue was pleasantly surprised and my hand reached out for more. Locals at the nearby table were smiling, as if they were happy to share their favorite snack with a foreigner.

I packed a few eggs and boarded the boat. The sunset painted the river warm orange color. The atmosphere was peaceful, with only the sound of paddling and a mom patting her baby. The scenery unfolded slowly like a postcard and eventually the island appeared. “Welcome to Koh Phdao,” a chocolate-skinned boy pulled me up from the boat, “I am Kolat from the NGO Cambodia Rural Development.”

As we walked along the soil trail, we were welcomed by blossoming trees, wandering cows and curious kids. Kolat walked into one bamboo hut and we climbed up. The upper floor was separated into different spaces by curtains. One space was for me, with a blanket, pillow and mosquito net. Kolat handed me a Khmer-English booklet. “Hungry?” he pointed to one word. I took out my eggs and we laughed.

“Take shower soon,” Kolat urged me before leaving, “the water is cold at night.” The shower was simple. I took up the bucket to pour water over myself. The water still had the warmth from the sun. I was amused to hear pigs gobbling their dinner outside.

When I came out, everything became shadow puppets on the night screen. I went upstairs and saw children gathering in front of TV. The family was proud to have a TV and power generator. I crept into my nest. Stars winked at me from the window and whispered: good night. Tomorrow is another adventure.