I Left Cuernavaca with the threat of rain heading for Mexico 190, the rain held off thankfully for the navigation out of the city. It took an hour to reach the outskirts of the city and then the road opened out to one of the most wonderful rides you could do. The road twisted and turned over the Sierra Occidental, travelling through amazing scenery volcanic cones, churches in valleys and atop flattened out mountains truly a gem of a road. Still the threat of rain in the distance but i seemed to be 20 minutes behind it as the drying roads testifyed. The last 100kms were autopista but still rolling and weaving through valleys and over hills. I made it to Oaxaca and found a hotel close to the Zocolo and organised a tour of Monte Alban for the next day. The city is a colonial gem with a huge plaza full of restaurants and street musicians, amazing cathedrals and public biuldings. Monte Alban is an amazing site the oldest pre hispanic site in Meso America, with only 20 percent uncovered it is huge.It dates to 600BC and was abandoned around 200AD for reasons unknown. 2 days here then move on ready to cross the Isthmus,and the wind not looking forward to that.
I left Oaxaca in the drizzling rain and headed for the continuation of Hwy 190. Wishful thinking that the rain would stop it only got heavier and then i was riding through clouds. Visibilty would have been 100metres or so, it would have been a magic ride on a sunny day. The plan get to Techutenpec on the Isthmus and see what it is like then. About 100 kilometre from the town traffic came to a stop ti was backed up for miles. i was waved along on the opposite side of the road by all the truck drivers it wouldnt happen in Australia. Then i was halted 300metres from an Indigenous demonstration. Chiapas region is fighting for recognition of indigenous rights from Mexico City. The demonstration was very peaceful, i was told to go through but i felt like i was undermining what they were doing so i sat and waited. Stupid ideoligies i have, 3 hours later the road was reopened so it looked like Techutenpec would be where i stop 230 km day where i was hoping twice that. The town is a purely indigenous place and i was the only tourist in the town, i felt like i stood out, but the lady at the hotel told me i looked Mexican, oh well when in Mexico.
I decide to chance riding out, this low pressure system is expected to last 48 hours. With a break in the rain i quickly pack and take of out of the flooded streets. The road out is awash Herbert breaking a bow wave as he goes.Then it fines for a while and i brace myself for the Isthmus and the wind. Its always a pretty definite sign when hundreds of wind turbines and trees growing horizontally dot the landscape. It was blowing a gale Herbert keeping traction only just. Then the diversions because of the washed out road, potholes filled with water and slippery mud. 2 and a half hours to do 90kms. Then i experienced the king of Topes, massive with vibradores on top, someone demented i believe, must be behind those ones. I was going well when i stopped to help a Mexican who had broken down, his engine had filled with water, it took an hour to get it atarted, then he rode of with my tyre pressure guage, great. Made it St Cristobal just as the heavens opened, am getting used to it now. St Cristobal is high in the Sierras and another gem of a colonial town. I dare not say tomorrow will be a short day, to get me close to the border.
