From Pondicherry I swung down through central Tamil Nadu to see several ancient Hindu temples. First stop was the town of Kumbakonam with a couple of UNESCO designated temples. The first temple, Gangaikondacholapuram (3 weeks later I can finally pronounce this name), was a 30 km bus ride out into the countryside. The town there is more than a crossroads but not more than a couple hundred feet through. Too the side of town rises a five story, stepped tower curving in and up from a fortified courtyard. Inside the first gopuram (entry tower) a giant sculpture of Vishnu's bull Nandi sits between you and the temple. The temple begins with a long, enclosed hall before you reach the tower so that the whole building looks like a church without trancept. Inside the hall are rows of columns you walk through by the tiny amount of sunlight that comes in though a few small windows. Shrines are scattered throughout the hall with small statues of deities shining from oil and wreathed in flowers. At the end is a vestibule where Brahmins stand before the entrance to the main shrine to Vishnu, represented by a linga (lingum) or sacred phallus. Only the Brahmins are allowed to go into the shrine. Even though the temple is about 1400 years old, people still come to worship and receive blessings or darshan from the priests. I watched people getting their little smears of ash and red pigment on their forehead for a while. I'd seen it before and had it done to me once, but I still can't say I understand what is behind all of the movements and symbols. Outside, the bright late morning sun gave the stone some great contrast for photos. I sat and did a drawing. Drawing always made me an attractions for kids. As in Mahallabapuram, they would come up and watch and then ask me where I was from and what my name was. A few would always want pictures with me. It was a fun way to interact with them. With the busses it took about 6 hours to visit Gongaikondacholapuram (now it's just a fun word to throw around). Luckily the other temple was just on the outskirts of town. This one was small and intimate with some great sculptures. I walked in and was immediately yelled at by one of the workmen who were cleaning the temple because I had not taken my shoes off. Everywhere Indians come up to me and ask me where I'm from. At this temple there were two Indian guys and me. When I said that I was from Seattle, one said "me too, I work at Amazon." Jesus, even here I can't get away from Amazon.
The next town was Thanjavur (Tangore). It too had a UNESCO temple. This one was build by the King Rajaraja I while Gongaikondacholapuram was built by Rajaraja II. They were very similar except for the curve of the tower. The stone was granite but reminded me of the limestone. The tower actually reminded me of Versailles because lines and color. Tangore is still a big city so there were lots of Western and Indian tourists. At night this one was lite up so I stayed until pretty late. I'd also gone to the palace earlier in the day, but it wasn't all that great. However there was a library from the Nayak kings and then Sultans that had a lot of Western books starting in the 17th century which was intersting. I wanted to see the temple in morning light so I stayed one more night and the next afternoon left for the city of Trichy (the name is just too long and nobody uses the entire thing).
I hated Trichy. The bellhop started begging me for American money because he had a wife and kids before I could even unpack. He insisted on doing things I didn't want him to do so I'd give him tips. He said he would bring me coffee at 8 and maybe then I'd have American dollars (like fives or tens, he said). Then what might be the biggest temple in india was completely under scaffolding so they could replaster and repaint. Then I got hassled by one of the ticket guards for being a single man and for having a cellphone camera and not paying the camera fee while the ticket agent was just waving me on. Kids would come up begging for money, saying "pen pen" which meant they wanted ten rupees. I was just done with being constantly hassled and listening to the constant honking (everyone just constantly honks because nobody follows and rules and just goes all of the road to get around people). I got up early and took a 7:30 train to Madurai. I don't know if the bellhop ever brought the coffee or not.
Madurai was also a little difficult but the sites were pretty good. I got hit with the same scam 3 times in 3 hours. I guy would start talking to me and then suddenly he was a tailor who's family had a shop. Let me show you the way to the temple, we can go by our shop. I was trying to remember not to smile, which was becoming easier because I was starting to just be angry all the time. However, this Nayak palace was pretty amazing with huge columns 60 feet high and 10 feet around leading into graceful Islamic arches and painted ceilings where it was open to the sky. This was the grand reception hall. Everywhere there were sculptures of lions like the ones from temples. The Temple of Meenakshi Amman was mixed. Cameras where not allowed along with a bunch of other things because they were afraid of terrorism because of a hoax bomb . I got yelled at one point because I didn't have a Foreigner ticket (the only temple that had needed a ticket) when there had been nobody around to sell me the ticket after I had been patted down by security. I started to yell back at the ticket guy and he tried to make nice. Then it happened again on the other side of the temple. Again, they starting on on "oh, sorry sir." Don't yell at the tourists you are trying to make money off of! Inside there were many gopuram (towers) and arcades with shrines with people praying. There was a nice holding tank which is a resevoire for pilgrims to bath in. Lots of great sculptures. And a temple elephant. However, I need a break from the cities so I decided I'd head to the mountains.
