Water Buffalo Reunion in Muang Ngoi
LAOS | Saturday, 15 September 2007 | Views [2588] | Comments [3]
Us with Penny and Kong Keo's family
Muang Ngoi...where to begin? First off, we must say that Muang Ngoi holds a very special place in our hearts as it is the location of where "The Water Buffalo Incident" occurred several years ago. The main reason we had returned, was to reunite with Penny, our dear little friend who runs a spectacular guesthouse (Phetdavanh Guesthouse), and our true-of-heart guide, Kong Keo.
Just after stepping off the boat in Muang Ngoi (which is located up the Nam Ou River in Northern Laos), Elizabeth spotted a young woman who looked much like the young little Penny (used to be "Vanh") who had comforted her while alcohol was being poured directly into her gaping elbow wound. As they ascended the stairs, and Elizabeth spoke to her, Penny interrupted mid-sentence and said in a loud excited voice, "You've come back! You've come back!" We all hugged. Penny told us she had overheard us speaking to other travelers down by the boat about staying at her guesthouse, and immediately she had a feeling it was us. She had shared her sentiments with a friend standing next to her before we had made our way up the bank. Her friend had replied by saying something similar to, "You're crazy. Do you know how many travelers look like them?!" But Penny had insisted it was us...especially recognizing Greg's warm, friendly face.
We all chatted excitedly and got settled into our rooms. I should mention that we had accrued a few companions. Abi and Rachel (2 young ladies from the UK) who we had met on the sawngtheaw (covered pick-up with bench seats which plays the role of a public bus) from Muang Sing, that had been regaled with our buffalo story and decided to accompany us to Muang Ngoi. The other pal was Mat Acaster. A true blue comrade who had come all of the way from South Korea just to see us. After getting settled into our rooms, we reconvened on the balcony which overlooks the only street in Muang Ngoi. Penny soon joined us with chilly Beer Laos all around and began to tell us an awe-inspiring, first hand, near-death account she had just experienced involving a shaman, and a ghost. That is really all we can handle saying about that. For the full version, see Penny in Muang Ngoi. We then shared our story of why we hadn't been in touch, why we hadn't returned before on our previous backpacking trip as we had promised, and why we had lost her address and been unable to keep in touch with her. She was convinced that the Brasi ceremony herself, her family, and a few villagers had performed for us, had saved us from a terrifying fate on December 26th, 2004. We told her how much comfort the strings around our wrists had brought us that day and through to the end of that trip.
There was another traveller staying at the guesthouse that day. A German guy that had been staying there for over a month (and who was a wee bit smitten with little Penny) was set to leave the next day. Penny insisted that Elizabeth, Greg, Mat, Rachel, and Abi, along with the German guy, should partake in another Brasi ceremony due to the overwhelmingly auspicious circumstances.
Before the ceremony was to take place, we set out to find Kong Keo and inform him of our return. It took us about 5 minutes to walk to his home which is located on the other end of of the village. He came to the door with a big broad smile, ushering all of us in. We circled around, sat down, and moments later a clear glass bottle appeared full of clear liquid. Lao Lao. We all partook in a couple of drinks and he invited us to eat dinner. He had been expecting us as he had run into Penny's father earlier that evening who informed him that we were back in town. Penny mentioned that we were to be back at her place for the Brasi ceremony (which would be followed by a dinner there) and that unfortunately we didn't have time to eat. He graciously understood and invited us all back the following evening for supper.
The Brasi ceremony was again, an incredible experience. We were honored with the presence of Penny's grandmother who is now 108 years. Her face reminded Elizabeth of Grandma Elizabeth. All Elizabeth could do was to keep rubbing her back and shoulder. The old woman just sat and accepted her affection, chuckling to herself, and rubbing Elizabeth's leg from time to time. Dinner was another fantastic affair as we got to sample a lot more Laotian food that we had not yet experienced. The party lasted late into the night and we slowly drifted to bed one by one.
We would like to mention, briefly, the meal we had with Kong Keo, his wife, Lani, and their two children that following evening. We ate a dish that was called "laap". There are many different kinds of laap, but this one consisted of smoked fish meat (similar to trout), pounded with chilis, lemon grass, and fishsauce. It was very simple but oh so delicious! We ate it with a variety of vegetables, and sticky rice. We were all impressed with the flavor, and have come up with our own ideas about how to attempt to re-create it once we get back home. Lao Lao was handed out by the tumbler-full, and we all hung around and visited until midnight which is quite late for sleepy, little Muang Ngoi.
There is so much to include of this time in Muang Ngoi, it would literally take forever, so to spare my fingers, and your time, I will just talk about the final day with Kong Keo and Penny. Abi, and Rachel left the following morning. Mat, Greg, and Elizabeth were invited by Kong Keo to go to a small nearby village where he had some friends and thought we might enjoy seeing another area north of Muang Ngoi. We were also supposed to go fishing, but by the time we had finished up at the village, there wasn't enough time. The village was nestled between mossy, steep, limestone cliffs, and was one of the most tranquil, peaceful inhabited areas we have ever been to. We purchased a couple of silk scarves for Lani, Kong Keo's wife, and for Penny (her birthday was coming up). Down at the end of the village, we came upon a few people and several ducks...ducks that were soon being chased after, caught, and weighed. Kong Keo had designs on them for dinner. The three of us insisted on paying for them. Ducks in tow, we made our way back to the boat.
We cleaned up and relaxed a moment at Penny's before schlepping our way to Kong Keo's for dinner. Before we left, we made a little to-do about Penny's birthday (which she very much appreciated), and gave her the scarf which she immediately threw around her neck and ran to show the rest of her family. We not only received thanks from her, but from her mother and father as well. We felt like we had picked a good gift.
The four of us walked down to Kong Keo's for our second dinner together. We ate, drank and had a truly amazing time. Kong Keo told the two of us that he really wants us to think of him and his family, as very close friends, and hopefully, as cousins. We assured him that we did, and said we hoped that he felt likewise--which already seemed pretty evident. We gave Lani her scarf, who accepted and thanked us a little more demurely than our little Penny. She, in turn, gave each one of us a hand embroidered item. Greg and Mat's were both scarf/handkerchief-esque that she had embroidered when she was a young woman before she was married. Elizabeth's was an embroidered sash to be affixed to the bottom of a Lao woman's skirt. We took loads of photos together, then happily hugged and kissed goodbye, promising that we will definitely keep in touch this time, and very much hope to back again someday.
Our reunion was more than we could have imagined. Unfortunately, we didn't get to do the trek we had wanted to complete with Kong Keo as the weather was not very nice...too muddy...and too many leeches as you'll find in "The Stunning Trek Team Takes on the Waterfall of Destiny".
Tags: Friends