July 6th
FRANCE | Wednesday, 19 July 2006 | Views [716]
July 6 - Thursday
Chambord
Since the campground wasn't too far away - about 8 kilometers we slept in a bit before heading out. It was a little overcast and the ride through the surrounding forest was beautiful. We rode along what was essentially a one lane road and for the last 5 kilometers no one passed us so we were really able to enjoy the lush surroundings. As we rode into the village we took the main road instead of the bike paths as they were all gravel and the bikes do not handle well at all in those conditions. We first saw just the side of Chambord - it was huge. I couldn't imagine what the rest of it looked like. We parked our bikes in the designated velo parking area. We were the only bikes there which made us nervous but since it didn't look like we could just pull up onto the lawn of the chateaux, we reluctantly locked up our bikes and started walking towardes the entrance.
The place is massive. The turrets were amazing - we couldn't wait to go inside. We had looked through our chateaux book and new that this one would be the most impressive, so far we weren't disappointed. We went into the entrance and Jon asked about security for the bikes. The gal behind the counter directed us to bike racks not far from the entrance under a grove of trees - a heck of a lot closer than were they were at the time. They also had a cloak and bag check room where we could leave our bike bags.
We walked back and rolled our bikes along the path to the front entrance of Chambord. Taking my bike nearly through the front door was about the last thing I imagined myself doing. The chateaux is so regal (as it should be) and overwhelming with it's history it almost seemed disrespectful to be leaving bike tire tracks through the carefully laid out gravel pathes (not that we were peeling around the corners or skidding to a stop or anthing like that). The only logical thing to do was take a picture of Jon and the bikes in the entrance of Chambord - right?
Chambord was the last chateaux in the Loire region we would be visiting. We decided to go for the audio tour knowing that there was so much to cover in that place. We thought an extra four euro was worth it.
Did I mention how large the place was? We had planned on spending an hour or two there. We were going to try to get some kilometers in that day having started out so late the day before. We were hoping to put in at least 60 kilometers but thought we could get in more. Well over three hours later the audio tour was finished. The history of Chambord is incredible and we definitely recommend visiting this chateaux as well a Chenonceaux, Usse, Montisereau and sur de Luce (the de Vinci chateaux).
As we were getting ready to leave, our overcast day turned into showers, then rain, before we knew it there was an out and out down pour going on thankfully it looked like it was temporary, just how temporary was the question. We gathered our bikes which did not have the seats covered. Even under the trees the seats were still a little soggy. We put our bike bags on and decided to get some lunch. After sandwiches and chocolate chip cookies the rain had stopped but was still threatening. We had waited long enough, anxious to start pedalling.
Since we had made arrangements with Jon's childhood friend, Rory, to meet him in England on July 13th and we weren't sure how long it would take us to get from the Loire valley which is when we had agreed on the dates and to Cherbourg to catch the ferry to Poole. We had also decided to visit the World War II memorials along the coast of Normandy which deviated slightly from our route. We were racing against time to a certain degree and now we were racing against the rain clouds. Once we got out of the Chambord park the sun was out and burning down on us. The ride was great: low rolling hills with some headwind but not too bad. We had some pretty dark clouds behind us which helped motivate us to put some power behind the pedalling. Once again mother nature hit hard with another soaking down pour. We stopped and put on our rain coats but not the pants. It wasn't cold out but the temperature had dropped about 20 degrees. The headwind really kicked in. We had our clear glasses on which were totally helpful and I was able to wipe away the drops as I was pedalling but it was raining so hard I was getting just as many drops on the inside of the lens as well - visibility was low. Oh, and semi trucks would pass by, not frequently, but regularly - one nearly brought both of us to a complete stop with it's tailwind. Then there was the semi that blew by kicking up more water and bits of gravel - thank goodness my mouth was closed! We were surrounded by wheat fields so there was no trees to run under for cover and the nearest town was at least 5 more kilometers away - I pedalled as fast as I could to that town in hopes getting some shelter from the rain. By the time we reached the town the rain had petered off so we kept going. Around 1930 we found our campground at Cloyes-Sur-Le-Loir. I don't remember much about the place or the town - it was late for a riding day. We had wanted to cross over into Normandy but didn't quite make it. It started sprinkling when we went to pitch our tent. I think we set it up in record time. Once it was set up we made dinner, pasta, with jarred tomato sauce of some kind and tuna as our source of protein. It was a warm,tastey, and hearty dinner. After we had our showers we were feeling a little more human and a lot more relaxed - this called for some ice cream. We had discovered these ice cream bars that are like Dove Bars that we have back at home - but with better flavors. We went to the camp bar in search of some - we found a adequate substitute and sat down to enjoy our treat. Shortly after we finished, an english fellow about our aged walked up and asked how we liked riding the recumbents. The fact that he knew what type of bike we had was a first and immediately got out attention. The man, Mark and his wife Ruth had seen us pull up and check in earlier. They were also biking around Europe and had been for the last 2-3 months on bikes with one gear, with only a single bag on the top of their racks, in a tent which I swear looks like it can fit only one person, and only one set of biking clothes and one set of regular clothes. Mark liked talking about himself and proceeded to do so for most of the time we spent together. His wife was pleasant. The couple had started in Spain and had travelled over some pretty tough terrain - areas where I wouldn't want to have only one gear. At first I was impressed by how they were travelling but the more I thought about it, "keeping it simple" as Mark had put it was lame. One gear for a bike is soooo asking for double knee replacement later on in life (they were maybe a few years older than us) and there's no reason to live for months with only two outfits. Oh well, it seemed to be working for them and they are accomplishing something pretty major.
It was getting late and we all had long days planned for tomorrow. Jon and I headed back to the tent. Our clothes were still wet from the night of the thunderstorm so we strung up the clothes line inside the tent as it was still showering outside. It was a jungle of clothes in the tent. Clothesline was crisscrossing the tent from end to end. I don't think there was a single inch of that tent that wasn't being used that night.
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