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Köln

GERMANY | Monday, 17 September 2012 | Views [489]

Köln, Deutschland (Cologne, Germany)

A modern city that seemed to be lacking old buildings – except a number of churches. 

After checking into our hotel mid afternoon after arriving from Bern, we walked to the Köln Cathedral or Dom as the Deutsch call it. The square in front of the Dom was filled, and I mean filled, with tourists and the local “businesses” that large groups of tourists attract.

The Dom is a spectacular building – it apparently took hundreds of years to complete due to circumstances such as wars, disagreements and the sheer scale of the thing – it is enormously tall for a church and can been seen from many of the streets in the city. The facade of the building is difficult to describe, but it seemed to have multiple towers or spires. We certainly took far too many photos of it.

We attempted to gain entry to the Dom, which considering the number of people entering and leaving the building was surprisingly easy. We soon discovered why – the Dom holds a number of Services during the day and you cannot go very far into the cathedral – so the coming and going was a virtual revolving door.

We set off in search of other attractions and stumbled on the shopping centre of the city. Much like Swanston Street, there are no vehicles on the street and it was shop front to shop front full of people. Needless to say, shopping was the focus for the limited time we had left of the afternoon. We did manage to discover Deutsch pastries and sweets – their nougat was different to ours though; it was almost like a thin icing. The one thing that we did notice whilst shopping was the very small number of non Caucasians – the other ethnic groups stood out because they were so few in number. I don’t know if this was a particularly Köln thing or something that applied Deutschland wide, but it was particularly noticeable.

The next day we attempted to visit the Dom again and found the same problem, but this time we located a Service timetable and we made a note of the times the place was free of a Service. After a little wandering around, we found another church that looked a little old. Turns out that construction there was completed in the 1200s, and it certainly looked like it inside the church.

When we arrived, there was a group of schoolgirls in front of us, all aged around 15 or 16. I wasn’t impressed with this, but soon changed my mind. The girls were a choir and they had arrived to practise for the first time in the church; their conductor was walking around whilst they sung their scales trying to listen to the sound and find the best spot to listen. We also thought that they were to be recorded because it seemed that there was recording equipment everywhere.  The scales by themselves were quite magnificent – and the sound seems to reverberate around the entire building, so that you could still hear them singing even when you could see that they were finished. It was something else to hear.....

The other highlights consisted of walking along the Rheine River, sampling the Deutsch beers of which there are many and I only sampled a few and the food. On the first night we asked for the sausage platter. This consisted of mashed potato, sauerkraut and a variety of very thick Deutsch sausages. I know this sounds a little boring, but it was actually quite interesting as the sausages each had a very different flavour, including one that was so smoky that you would have sworn you standing in the smoke of a campfire as you ate it.

The Rheine River is a very big river and certainly dwarfs anything I have seen, including some of the Queensland rivers. It has quite large boats chugging up and down it and seems to be somewhat of a port for those tourists taking cruises down the river to the Nederlands. The bridges across the river seem to be several hundred meters wide and the cars and trains crossing those bridges seemed to take forever to get from one side to the other.

We eventually managed to get ourselves inside the Dom, and to be honest, it was not as spectacular inside as it was outside. The stained glass windows were as good as anything I have seen, but some of the Italian churches were far more ornate than this one. Nevertheless, it was quite cavernous inside and certainly held the many hundreds of people inspecting the Dom’s interior.

It was on our walk the next day as we travelled to inspect the old city gates that were built in medieval times that we discovered why Köln did not seem to have many old buildings. The place had been bombed by the Allies in the 2nd World War and it seemed that a deliberate decision had been made NOT to bomb the churches – the photos that we saw showed them standing like silent sentinels over the rubble of the bombed out buildings surrounding them. It meant that majority of the buildings that we saw were built after 1945.

A long walk back to the hotel the paved on path alongside the river, much of which was spent avoiding cyclists and runners concluded our pleasant stay here.

Top 5

5. The many Deutsch beers.

4. Interesting food.

3. A hotel room that overlooked the Rheine River.

2. Very friendly people – we were very comfortable here.

1. The amazing exterior of Köln Dom.

 

Bottom 3

3. The fact that we had enormous difficulty obtaining Deutsch red wine – plenty of whites, but virtually no reds.

2. The noise of the cafes outside our hotel at night – sleep was a little difficult.

1. Virtually no old buildings, which for a city the age of Köln, was very disappointing.

 

 

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