Travelling on the midnight express to Russia I had no idea what I could expect from this imposing Gigantor country. However, from the first Russian border inspector jumping on our bus at 3am until reaching St Petersburg at 8am I was subject to many stern Russian officials barking at me in strange words and looking at me like slitting my throat was probably the best way to deal with me. Reaching St Petersburg I find everything written in Russian and many streets without names. The address given me for my hostel turned out to be incorrect as I assumed was being told to me by the angry Russian man I disturbed by trying to stay with him...
So after spending a few wandering hopeless hours I finally do find my hostel - where reception did not speak English, and in another hour or so I was checked in. After a shower and a change of clothes I stepped outside and something wonderful happened - Russia opened its friendly arms and welcomed me to its bosom, and I hugged her gleefully.
St Petersburg is such a beautiful city and despite the lack of English the people turned out to be very nice and welcoming for the most part (there were still a few barkers but these become less noticeable as I ensconsed myself in the city).
For the immaculately dressed and glamourous Russian ladies, high heels and tiny miniskirts are the order of the day, every day, 24/7... And for the fashion conscious Russian male, one should be proudly displaying a Billy Ray Cyrus mullet at all times.
On my first night I caught up with Richo, a guy I'd met one night out in Cambodia. This led inexplicably to some big and long nights; having no darkness here it is impossible to keep track of time and it simply escapes you - getting home before 7am is a tame affair.. (this is affectionately known as the period of white nights). The night life in St Petersburg is kicking and it is a fantastic place for it, the people very receptive to an Aussie guy. Although not wanting to look conspicuous as a tourist in a country where their sovereignty is everything, I quickly joined in their culture and practically drowned in the local vodka - this I found something of a normal regular routine to Russians - it's not surprising their life expectency is a mere 59...
Every day in St Petersburg is easy to fill as there is so much to see and do, and strolling down Nevsky Prospect in the sun looking at the magnificent buildings and absorbing the summer buzz of the many people is a great way to spend a day.
The Cyrillic alphabet I found actually quite easy to pick up and reading was not a problem, however talking it was a different story, I became very good at charades... luckily the younger crowd patronising the bars and clubs could generally speak some English.
One day I let Richo talk me into hitting the gym, something I had not done for over 7 months - however if you were needing incentive - Russia certainly provides it. I've been to gyms before and there is always a few big vain muscle bound guys, but what I saw here was crazy. All the guys there were massive mountains of muscle in lycra - with a head on top. It was almost comical, but I wasn't about to laugh at them.. Feeling scrawnier than ever I pulled more weight than I am capable - needless to say I was sore for days afterwards.
On one day I received a message from my sister Anna, telling me I must call her and it was very important. Fearing there was a problem I call and find that my sister had just become engaged! This was fantastic. So, to celebrate I went out with another Anna - a professional classical Russian singer and dancer who I had met on my first night out. Anna was great, not only did she become my crazy dance partner, leaving the disco's of St Petersburg smouldering, but she was also invaluable as a Russian insight and as translator in some near impossible situations like buying a train ticket. I spent the next few days with her seeing the sights and on the last day visited Peterhof - acres of beautiful gardens, woodlands, fountains, statues and magnificent palaces/buildings. This was followed by vodka - the perfect end to my time in St Petersburg. This was a city I was genuinely sad to leave.
Unfortunately on my arrival in Moscow I learned of the death of a man I had met in Edinburgh on my previous travels and was planning to see again this time around. It is a tragedy when someone is taken before their time, and it is a shame I did not see him again before his death. One more drink at the bowls club would have been nice.
Moscow I found was a beautiful city also. Many people had warned me that it was really busy and the people are unfriendly. However I guess I really like cities and this one is great. I found the people to be generally very friendly and the city has so many great things to see and do - like St Petersburg each day was packed. On day one I visited the Kremlin and Red Square and St Basils Cathedral followed by going to Novodevechy Convent. I think its so great to have such magnificent grand old buildings/monuments in the middle of a city - something the young Australian cities are unfortunately lacking. Maybe one day we'll have a statue of John Howard the Great, who introduced the IR reforms...
This first day was followed by a night on the town with a German guy and Danish girl from my hostel. The German having lived here before, we were taken on a tour of many bars/nightclubs that were all festively full and our tired feet did not come home until sometime during the next day..
And the Moscovite people were friendly. Starting with the reception staff at my hostel who shamelessly flirted with me - although this may have been part of an alterior motive - they wanted me to work there once they became a man down - I did not discourage the flirting...
One morning I got up early (8am, its the earliest I've seen except for coming home at that time, for a while) to go and visit the displayed corpse of the legendary Lenin. It was a very sombre event, many guards making sure you are respectfully quiet and not smiling as you shuffle past the body. Even in death this man seems imposing. Then it was off to the Sunday market to haggle over fur hats and war memorabilia - there was no respectful silence here...
On my final night in Moscow I did go out with one of the girls at my hostel reception, and we went to Victory Park. Large gardens with many beautiful fountains and army tanks lining the footpaths with great big monuments to old war heros. Plus of course the ever present beer vendors. Again, a very pleasant way to end my stay in Moscow.
And now, after nearly 7 months I find myself heading back to a country where English is the first language, this will take some adjusting. But I look forward to meeting friends there in England and then getting back up to Scotland. Although the work offers I have received in Russia are tempting - will see how this unfolds...
