Bobbing along

April 2005

The three of us set off on the Shinkansen (bullet train) for Hiroshima! We were so excited and Mum was on the edge of her seat and looking out of the window. We had waffles with maple syrup to enjoy as we coasted along. The seats are so amazing on that train - really comfortable and loads of leg room.

We arrived at Hiroshima station 1 and a half hours later. We decided to head for Miyajima island that day as the weather was gorgeous and it was 3pm so had plenty of time to nose around. It's a beautiful island with famous shrines, deer, sculptures and the famous floating Torii gate. We had to get a local train from Hiroshima to Miyajima-guchi (25 mins) and then walk to the ferry to cross the river. Mum and I were jumping up and down on the ferry as the views were amazing of the island and the coastline behind us. We took pictures and after 10 mins we arrived at the island. The warm sunshine, blue sky, wonderful scenery made me feel a little teary. Stunning beauty like that brings a lump to the throat.

The Torii of Itsukushima shrine appears to float in the water. The War Lord Taira no Kiyomori, who provided funds for the shrine, built the first Torii in the bay in the 12th century. The present structure dates from 1875 and is about 16m high. It's four-legged style provides security. Off the ferry we went into the first little deer park - so awesome to see all the deer roaming free, lazing around and so tame we could stroke them. We walked leisurely along the shore where literally hundreds of Japanese people were digging in the sand for clams where the tide had gone out. Andy went down to investigate.

As we drew nearer to the Torii gate we could see how truly huge it was. There were lots of steps to climb up to Senjokaku Pavilion (called the Pavilion of a thousand mats made of tatami built in 1587). It was an immense wooden structure. Next to it was the Five Story Pagoda (1407) but unfortunately it was surrounded by scaffolding and green nets . I put my camera on my tripod and took many pictures of the surrounding scenery and where temples and pagodas poked out in the distance between the charming green trees. There are many historical buildings there, all the way across the valley.

Down more steps was Itsukushima Shrine - founded in 593 and built on stilts over a cove. Part of the deck facing the bay includes the oldest Noh stage in Japan. I bought Mum a "health and happiness" charm and a gorgeous fan. We walked through the buildings (like on a pier) and the smell of the wooden boards and the salt of the sea were so refreshing, along with a gentle breeze that made all of us feel so tranquil and at peace. There were prayer rooms where people had written their prayers on wooden plaques and hung them up on a screen.

The views across the bay were stunning, with the greenest green of the valley accentuated by the red/orange colour of the shrine. Walking over a small stone bridge to exit the shrine, we came upon a Two Story Pagoda (Tahoto) where a monk clothed in red wandered around. It was getting late so we re-traced our steps to the ferry. Leaving the island the lights were twinkling along the shore and making the Torii glow. I learnt from my guidebook that Miyajima island has been worshiped as a divine island since ancient times.

Tired but buzzing with the wonderful sights filling our minds, we went to an Izakaya as we suddenly realised we were famished! We got the train back to the 'entertainment area' of Hiroshima and Andy chose "Wara Wara" (a restaurant we used to frequent in Yamashina, Kyoto). The boothed seating made it a cozy and private place to enjoy the ambience, good food and excellent company! The wood was dark with bamboo screens at the windows. It was Mum's first time using chopsticks and she did so admirably.

We ordered:
Salted cod entrails with red pepper
Boiled soy beans edamame
Fried squid with tartare sauce
Korean fried rice with kimchee and pork
Salmon and tuna sashimi
Clams with noodles
Chicken gristle
Duck salad with onions
Chicken dumpling with egg
Gyoza
Roast chicken and green onion salad
Potatoes with cheese topping
Spicy fried potatoes

It was succulent and scrumptious!!! We were well chuffed!

We got a hotel for the night and I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow! Next morning Mum put on the yukata that the hotel provides for you and wanted a pic of her in it! We had to ask Andy to take one of the two of us.

After checking out we got a tram to the Peace park. We decided to have breakfast before going in, and stopped at a cafe. The food was pretty good! Mum and I had chicken and basil salad baguettes while Andy had a hot shrimp gratin and shrimp italiana sandwich. Lovely - that stoked our boilers! Feeling better we set off around the park.

The first thing we saw as we came into the park situated between 2 rivers, was the awe-inspiring Atomic Bomb Dome, all that remains of the bombed city. It's a haunting reminder of the destructive forces that were unleashed on the city. The former Industrial Promotion Hall stood close to the hypo-centre. The occupants of the building were killed instantly. It's twisted girders, gaping holes and piles of rubble have been preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Beautiful flower beds and trees swaying in the breeze made the atmosphere peaceful, serene and breathtaking. We took lots of photos there.

From there we went to the Peace Monument depicting a girl with outstretched hands. A crane, the Japanese symbol of longevity and happiness, passes above her. The work refers to the story of a child victim of the bomb who was 2 years old when the bomb was dropped. She was 11 when she developed leukaemia, which resulted from her exposure to the A bomb, and she believed that if she could make 1000 paper cranes she would recover from her illness. She did not survive and had got to her 644th crane. However, her story is known throughout Japan and fresh paper cranes sent by children in schools all across Japan always adorn the memorial.

Across the road is the Flame of Peace, which will be extinguished only when all the nuclear weapons have been eliminated from Earth. Next to that is the Cenotaph, for the victims of the bomb. It contains the names of all those who died, together with an inscription that reads, "Rest in peace. We will never repeat the error".

The centrepiece of the park is the Peace Memorial Museum. This graphically explains the consequences of the bomb on the city by means of photos, videos, displays and the personal effects of the victims. Burned clothing, deformed glass bottles, melted brickwork, a half-melted bronze Buddha, a mangled tricycle and the imprint of a dark shadow on the granite steps of the Sumitomo bank building - the sole remains of someone who was sitting there at the time are some of the poignant exhibits. The museum was so fascinating but some exhibits and stories were too hard to handle - it brought tears to my eyes. Some victims were carried miles to be with their family, only to die within 2-4 days - a welcome release from the pain and suffering.

We came out into the sunshine and sat on a bench staring out across the fresh and clam park, each of us lost in our own thoughts. Then we moved off and came across a monument to children. There was a statue to the Goddess of peace and paper cranes had been placed around her hands and feet.

There was also a Memorial Mound where the victims' ashes have been buried, and a Peace bell nearby which rang out many times as there were visitors to the park. Andy, Mum and I were accosted by so many groups of schoolchildren! They were all doing a project and had to talk to foreigners to practice their English. They came up in groups of 5-6 at a time and said, "Hello my name is....... I'm from .......Elementary school, may I have your name? Where are you from? Please sign". It was really cute, but there were so many of them and we had to keep signing and eventually we ran away!!

After that we took the tram back to Hiroshima station. We bought drinks for the train and then off we went back to Kyoto. It was a thoroughly amazing experience and I have really good memories of it. I believe anybody who visits Japan should see Hiroshima with their own eyes. It's truly thought-prvoking.