So here we go.. Apologies to all for the tardy nature of this blog.. but as promised, I will chronicle the rest of the adventures in short stories over the next few weeks so all those who haven't heard much will be able to catch up... and there is so many stories to tell...
So we left things with the imminent embarkation of the train to Calcutta or as it is now named (more phonetically it seems and as a reaction to the fall of the Raj I gather also...) Kolkata...
There are many stories about the etymology of the name Kolkata but the most plausible seems to be that it was the site where the toe of the Goddess Kali (who is the demonic incarnation of Shiva's wife if memory serves me correct - answers on a post card ;0) landed when she was dismembered.. nice
Anyway Kolkata is also famed for its slum cities and its most famous daughter, Mother Teresa... It is also the last place in the world where ''Rama'' Rickshaws are still in use... These are the ones where there is no motor, and no cycle attached onto the front, but just a small Indian Fellow walking you around on a cart. Generally with no shoes either. It really is quite an experience and one which is not necessary a pleasant one.
Whilst in the city it really is a must that you visit Mother Teresa’s Tomb and museum attached.. She was obviously a remarkable lady but her legacy is more than tangible here.. We also visited the Kali temple (the aforementioned Hindu temple) and while we were there, we visited the mother Teresa hospital for the dying. This was the original Hospice set up by the Late demi saint and we felt we had to go in and offer a small donation... It was an eerie yet humbling place with rows of people in beds and on the floor waiting for something, but everyone was friendly. We didn't stay long as we thought it was not very respectful to do so but we went away feeling their collective anguish.
Kolkata city I Found to be quite stunning in places... it really differs somewhat from other cities I n India such as Delhi in that the Architecture is very colonial and beautiful in parts. The streets are much wider and it just had a more western feel. It was the old colonial capital so is very much influenced by this but it has become the capital of culture in India, if somewhat unofficially. This is personified by the countless galleries and exhibitions in and around the central park district. We went to one of these galleries and found some nice art work, photographs and sculptures there... Just another facet of this amazing country..
So only spending 3 days in Kolkata, we departed for Darjeeling (yes, where the Tea is from) The trouble was, everyone else had the same idea.. To set the tone, it was just hotting up on the planes and the month or so before the monsoon hit, the heat was almost unbearable and travellers and Indians alike (well the ones who can afford too) generally head north to places like Darjeeling for holidays... We booked the train tickets a few days in advance but were about 200 places down the waiting list for sleeper carriages... these are the bunk bed style carriages which are generally comfortable and allow transit and sleep simultaneously.. We thought we would be able to get our way into one of these classes, such as 3 ac 2 ac or just sleeper.. but no avail, when we arrive at the station, there really was no other option than jumping on the ''cattle car'' with the locals.. These consist of wooden benches with as many people that will physically fit and this was for 16 hrs overnight... I am very glad I experienced this mode of transport but also glad this was the only time we had too... When we got on, everyone was in awe of the westerners on the wrong carriage. When we had explained this was the only option for us, the Army Guys on the carriage took us under our wings and made us feel safe... Forgot to mention that on the way into Kolkata, 2 guys in our carriage (the sleeper carriage) had their bags stolen whilst they were sleeping.. and this is apparently one of the worst lines for theft (one of the Guys was a young French Guy who lost everything. he had no money, passport or insurance and we eventually lent him some money to make sure he could live until he got in contact with his dad. I actually bumped into this guy in Cambodia and found out he had enough money to get back to Delhi and he waited in a guest house for 11 days, and didn't eat for 3 but was eternally grateful as the money we had lent him had saved his ass.. think he may get insurance next time tho ;0) So we were a little paranoid about the bags but as the Army man pointed out, the thieves don’t touch ''these carriages'' so instantly relaxed... So the next 16 hrs was for the most part, a really real and rewarding experience... the highlights were making friends with 2 sets of Father and son's from Bengal and their drunk uncle.. the latter insisted on plying me with Bidi's for the duration of the Journey (small cigarettes made from leaves) pan, the strange pungent chewing tobacco and boiled eggs... Also, they were fascinated by my IPod... so I shared some music around the group... Not sure they really got The Prodigy, Aphex Twin and Queens of the Stone Age, but we all had a dance and a laugh...
After not so much sleep, we arrived rubbing our Eyes at new Jaipalguri ready to catch a tuk tuk to Siliguri (sounds silly to me) where we caught a Bus the rest of the way to Darjeeling.......
