Meow!!!
NEPAL | Saturday, 28 February 2009 | Views [478]
For the 1st time in such a long time I was up early for a reason! My sister and I were going to Chitwan National Park.
The
journey to the Temple Tiger Jungle Resort was long and weary or I had
completely lost my ability to travel in a bus. Travelling in the luxury
of a Greenline bus passed me by and after 90 minutes we stopped for a
short break. My fat arse needed a massage and my lungs were hungry for
the sweet taste of tar only a cigarette can bring. I really am travel
unfit!!
Back in the bus for another hour or so saw us arrive at the
“change the bus location place”. A wait of 40 minutes was observed and
then it was into a minibus for the drive out of the mountains and into
the plains of the Teri and the town of Narayangarh. What stuck me most
was how much like India it was. Noisy, dusty, wide roads with multiple
travel directions all wrapped up in a bundle of confusion. From there
it was an hours jeep ride, the jeep we had was in all fairness the
biggest piece of vehicular shit I have ever been in. None of the doors
would shut properly, the window couldn’t be wound down, there was more
rust than metal and don’t even get me started on how bad the tracking
and brakes were!!!
After an eternity of not breathing out we arrived
at the river bank and glided across the wide Narayani River to be met
on the other side by the welcoming resort staff. A quick slurp of juice
and one tikka later it was onboard a really good jeep for the 4km ride
through the jungle to the resort.
The resort is set on the bank
of a small river with viewing platforms looking out across it. The
accommodations are 20 or so good sized raised huts with a small terrace
and reed thatching on top of the roof. A well screened dining room was
next to a large open roundhouse complete with a good sized raised fire
pit, great chairs and thankfully a well stocked bar with impressively
cold beer. After dumping the bags in the room we went and stood on the
viewing platform. To the left were elephants grazing on the tall and
fresh grass and to the right was a rhino, a rare one horned Indian
rhino at that, in the river grazing on the river grasses.
A
little while later it was time to go on an elephant and ride off into
the jungle in search of wildlife. Having never ridden on an elephant
before it took a while to get used to its movements. Sitting on a small
wooden platform (thankfully cushioned) behind the driver the diagonally
rocking movement was somewhat unusual. Entering the Sal forest (Sal
being the local name for the dominant tree species) we became quite and
watchful. By now, the slow rhythmic footfalls of the elephant and my
rocking motion had become one. After a few minutes we came across some
spotted deer that startled by the elephant ran across the path and into
the undergrowth. Then a couple of wild pigs were seen followed by the
very rare and reclusive Chitwan jungle chicken!!! So, deer, pigs and
chickens: I was kind of hoping for more!!!
Leaving the forest behind (which accounts for 70% of the park’s 950 square kilometres) we entered into an area of grassland.
Large
swaths of the tall elephant grass had been burned deliberately to
fertilize the soil and to keep the grass land free of trees. Shortly we
came across a small group of rhinos, keeping quiet we slowly moved
closer till we were only 30 foot away. The 5 rhinos stopped their
grazing and looked up. Having a wild and free rhino look straight at
you is an experience. Having 3 rhinos do it is something else. The
camera clicked away and after a while the rhinos lost interest and went
back to their foraging. We continued on as the sun slowly edged towards
the horizon. Heading back to the lodge we came across another rhino
feeding, it paid us no attention at all.
Back at temple Tiger,
sitting by the fire (without a sound of a generator nearby), drinking a
cold beer was a perfect way to end the day.
The following
morning it was up early, coffee and a fag and then off for a dawn
elephant ride. It was still quite dark when we came across a rhino and
as I didn’t want to use the camera flash I choose to just watch it
instead. Moving out into the grassland with the weak sun struggling to
push back the mist we came across a few more rhinos, several deer but
sadly no tigers.
Later on in the morning we went for a jeep
ride. Apart from trees and the occasional monkey we didn’t see much at
all. Arriving at the end of the ride at the river bank we waited whilst
the boatmen punted the canoe upstream to meet us. Climbing in we set of
down stream. On a nearby sandbar we saw several Gharials warming
themselves with their long and narrow snouts raised off the ground. The
pace of the river ebbed and flowed as the depth rose and fell whilst
the water made its way to the Indian Ocean.
In the afternoon we went for a jungle walk, for protection we were all given a long wooden stick!!!
WHAT!!!!!!!!!!
Oh…and some advice
Rhino charge: run away zig zag fashion???
Tiger: back away slowly???
Bear: play dead???
So, perfectly safe then!
Due
to all of the fallen leaves littering the forest floor the noise we
were making made us sound like a herd of overweight elephants. So only
a few monkeys stayed around to check us out. The nearest I got to
seeing a Tiger was a fresh paw print in the muddy bank of a small
stream. You know what? That was enough for me!
Come the evening I was sitting by the fire with a glass of golden nectar in my hand…life was good
The next morning it was time to leave and go back to Pokhara.
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