At land's end
INDIA | Sunday, 13 July 2008 | Views [317]
Following several weeks of travelling in a mostly southern direction
from Mumbai, I can’t go any further. I have reached the bottom of
India, Cape Comorin and the small holy town of Kanyakumari.
After
spending 5 nights on the cliffs of Varkala it’s good to be back in
amongst the hustle and bustle of Indian life. Mind you it is a small
town!
Arriving in the early evening I’ve got a non sea view room
in an okay hotel overlooking the small harbour on the eastern side of
town and therefore India. The room costs R180 less than the one across
the hall but as it has a cable tv it’s not like I’ll be looking out of
the window that much! Thankfully I was able to see the last several
laps of the German round of Motogp.
Later on in the evening
after a large bowl of delicious noodles (hey, would you want to eat
Indian every night?) I’m in a basement bar. My preferred style of
drinking is always subterranean and would you believe my luck, the only
cold beer they have is “strong”, we’re talking 8% plus. With great
foresight I can see my hotel from here…well if the bar had windows and
wasn’t underground you understand! Despite my pleading the barman
insisted on me receiving the complementary bar snacks. If they had been
nuts I could have just about been tempted. However, sliced tomatoes,
carrots and cucumber ain’t beer finger food!
The next day I was
up early and out and about. The walk around town took about 25 minutes
and that was me walking slowly. So off I went to the ferry.
The ferry, where, over there, to a little temple with knobs on it, there over there right there.
A
few hundred yards off shore are two rocky outcrops. On the smaller one,
covered in scaffolding, is a statue of the famous Tamil poet
Thiruvalluvar. It stands 133 foot but is currently undergoing
restoration. They are sealing the stonework with a polysilica coating
to protect against erosion from the elements. Why no one thought to do
this when it was built 8 years ago is beyond me (so it’s closed to
tourists till the middle of October).
On the larger rock outcrop
is the Vivekananda Memorial built to celebrate the life and deeds of
Swami Vivekananda, the wandering monk who once spent 3 days and nights
here going Om! (and that was over xmas bet he forgot to buy his family
any presents). Whilst the views from this perspective were good the
cultural significance failed to find any fertile ground in my
consciousness to take root. Wishing to find out more I went to the
small museum (back on the mainland) which told the story of the man and
why he went a wandering. I still didn’t get it…how does walking around
without any possessions begging for food bring you closer to god?
In
the evening with the sunset an hour away I found a spot down near the
beach to take some pictures of the sunset. I couldn’t be arsed to take
a taxi to sunset point 2.5kms away. It was slightly overcast and the
sunset was quite poor, walking back along the beach road 15 minutes
later I happened to turn around and was overwhelmed by the brilliance
of the now gorgeous sunset. The wispy tendrils of the clouds were lit
up by the full spectrum of pinks and reds against a glowing orange sun.
As tomorrow is my last night here I’m definitely going to sunset point.
What do you think are the chances of it raining tomorrow evening!
Checking
my finances online earlier in the day it turns out that over the last 6
weeks I’ve spent £500. I have no idea if that’s too much. Wondering
about this I thought I would try and work out how long it will take me
to get to New Zealand. Turns out I should be there in May 2010 (ish).
When’s the rugby world cup on?
Almost forgot about this…when I
arrived at the train station I made my way towards the exit for my now
traditional 1st fag in a foreign town ritual. Nearing the exit all of
us passengers were steamed by the rickshaw drivers swarming around us
all like angry bees on a hot summer’s afternoon desperate to get our
business.
Tomorrow I’m going to make like a front room and lounge!
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