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Into the Abyss: An Anthropological Study

November in Paris

FRANCE | Monday, 29 November 2010 | Views [381] | Comments [2]

OK, so I thought I would update you on what's been happening here in France instead of stressing about my reams of homework. It's good, because it gives me the illusion of doing something constructive. That is, I'm communicating with all the lovely people who I miss so much in Australia but without making the effort to write you emails individually... if I've been remiss in replying to your emails, I'm really sorry! I'm a terrible correspondent at the best of times, and when I'm busy I often go into “shut-down mode” and cease all communication with the outside world.


Number one thing to bring to Paris in winter: a good, warm coat. I'm so happy I have my lovely bright blue coat to keep me warm. But I'm wearing it with leg-warmers, two pairs of socks, boots, a jumper, a skivvy, a scarf, some gloves, some ear-muffs and a hat. It's freezing! But it actually snowed a bit this week which kind of made me think it was all worth-while. Snow is so beautiful. It's not sticking to the ground yet, because the temperature is only really averaging about 0-3 degrees during the day, and there has been little precipitation. But I'm assured that it won't be long before I get to make snowmen with childish glee.


I've been more or less happy with all my work so far. The few grades I've had back so far have been good, and the topics are all interesting. Right now, I'm writing an essay for tomorrow about racism and politics in Britain, a dissertation for Friday about the importance of Einstein's theories in Parisian avant garde art, and an oral presentation for Tuesday about cartography in the Soviet Union. I can't believe how non-dry I am finding these topics. Parisian intellectualism is so much more accepted than its Melbournian counter-part, that I can start up a conversation with just about anyone on these topics and they'll have something interesting to say. Having said that, I'm not exactly hanging around in the banlieus (outer suburbs) but with wealthy, young bourgeois kids who visit art galleries on the weekend and try to score Opera tickets with the same determination we might use to get into the Falls Festival with a boot full of beer.


I met a bunch of interesting people last night. My housemate, Maud, has become active in a radical anarchist feminist group and helped to organise a night-time march from the twentieth arrondissement to the Hotel de Ville, just on the other side of the Seine from our house. The idea was to reclaim public spaces for women and object to the normalisation of violence against women. Yeah! It was an almost entirely female crowd of about two hundred people, mostly young but also some older people. Maud's mother came with us with coffee in a furnace, which I thought was pretty cool, although she was pretty scared she was going to be arrested. I can't tell you how bizarre and fun it was to march, chanting slogans, directly through the Place de la Republique on a Saturday night. We had a police escort and pissed off a lot of commuters. We only got out of the way once, for an ambulance, which I thought was pretty decent. There was zero violence, and the police seemed to be sympathetic (or at least, they're so used to that sort of thing that it wasn't a big deal). It was freezing, but we were well dressed and marched relatively quickly half-way across the city. Afterwards, Maud invited the protesters back to our place... fortunately, only about 15 people turned up or we would have had serious space problems. Still, it was awesome to talk to people and play hostess. Maud made a couple of enormous pots of hot wine with cinnamon and lemon, which made everyone exceedingly cheerful. They even cleaned the place up before they left, which, as we remarked to each other, no boy would ever have thought to do.


What else is new... I went to the menagerie in the big gardens near my house recently. There were interesting animals from all over the world. I was particularly excited to see some exceedingly rare Mongolian wild horses, which were beautiful and of which there are only a few dozen left in the wild. I felt very sorry for the kangaroos though, because their habitat was out in the cold and they were kind of just huddling for warmth. It was a bit sad.


I must admit I haven't done too much touristy stuff since I've been here. I've climbed the Eiffel tower and been inside Notre Dame, but I still haven't visited the Louvre or Sacre Coeur. I think I'm getting a much more interesting view of France from the ground up, even if my accent forbids the true local experience. My language is definitely improving though, and Maud's grandmother even said that I have lost my English accent, which is encouraging, I think.


Bed-time, I shall try to update again soon.

Comments

1

Lovely blog Tess, that night march sounds awesome!

  Katy Dec 1, 2010 10:03 AM

2

I love you blog Tessa! I cant believe you went on a protest march, that is so cool! It sounds like you are completely embracing the French culture. We need to see some photos though : )

Do you have any travel plans yet?

Miss you! xox

  Nat Dec 12, 2010 9:47 PM

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