Hi everyone,
Our whistle stop tour of South America continues, with 3 days in Montevideo followed by 2 in Cordoba, 1 in Santiago, 2 in Rio and finally a planned 10 day stop in Salvador.
We took yet another South American bus from Montevideo on Wednesday evening (11th June) and it plonked us in Cordoba 14 hours later. Cordoba is Argentina´s second city and made a handy stop off on the way back to Santiago, which is where we needed to catch our flight to Rio.
Cordoba is a pleasant place with some old colonial-style buildings and a big central square that reminded us a bit of Dejmaa El Fna, the big square in Marrakech, with smoke rising from umpteen bbq stands grilling sausages.
Cordoba´s slightly creepy cathedral - and a horse and cart
Then on Friday, we decided it was time to see some Argentinian countryside rather than just stick to the cities, so what better way to do it than book ourselves on a wine and food tasting tour! The tour took us to a local vineyard where the owner delivered a fascinating explanation of the wine making process. Well at least we think it was fascinating but can´t be sure as it was all in Spanish...
Well, I suppose it is after lunch time in the UK - top me up!
We then went to a local farm where the owner once again gave a long talk in Spanish about how they made salami. The Argentinian tourists all started buying great big salamis at the end, so we assumed that what the lady said must have been good and bought one for ourselves for dinner.
Mrs. Forlini, the sausage shop owner. You wouldn´t want to meet her down a dark alley with that knife now would you?!
Though we were almost put off eating our salami meal after we were then taken into the farmyard to see the next lot of pigs destined to end up as spicy Italian sausage. We got over it though. And scoffed a whole salami for dinner.
Sorry little piggies!
After our salami feast that evening, we got another bus back over the Andes to Santiago, with plans to eat at our two favourite restaurants before we went to Rio.
Unfortunately we arrived late afternoon on Saturday and our flight was at 7am on Sunday, so we had no time for lunch and dinner. It was time to get creative...
The last time we were in Santiago, two weeks ago, Sarah had fallen in love with the anchovy toast at a little restaurant three blocks from our hotel, while our favourite meal of the whole trip was at another restaurant one block away. So there was only one thing for it. Anchovy toast starter at restaurant #1, followed by steak, chicken and chorizo brochette for main course at restaurant #2.
Unfortunately though when we got to the first restaurant the anchovy toast wasn´t on the menu, so we settled for soup instead. Luckily the brochettas were still going strong and the second place, so we piled in once again for brochettas, veg and great bottle of wine for 12 quid. We tried to persuade them to open a branch in Stoke Newington but where not sure they quite understood. Curses.
We got up at 3.30am on Sunday for the shuttle to the airport and landed in Rio early in the afternoon. It was bright and sunny and 27 degrees when we landed and just as we´d hoped it would be. From the plane we could see the famous landmarks like Copacobana beach, Sugar Loaf and the statue of Christ the Redeemer towering over the city. We had visions of sunning ourselves on the beach before donning our best samba ouftits and drinking capirinhas....
Sunrise views over the Andes as we left Santiago
But the weather had other plans. By the time, we reached our hotel in Ipanema, the temperature had plummted to mid-teens, a wind had started blowing and dark threatening clouds were threatening armageddon over Sugar Loaf mountain! We still had to see the beach though, so we popped down, stood on it for 45 seconds, then decided we´d better go back to the hotel and get our coats before we went out for dinner...
Her name is Rio and she dances in a... scarf?!
The following day, Monday, wasn´t much better and stayed overcast and barely 20 degrees all day, so we decided to sort out all our travel arrangements for the coming weeks instead...and for Phil to finally get his haircut (by Tracy, the Aussie hotel receptionist and hairdresser to the stars). Which was the first haircut since he got Sarah to shave it all off at the end of October and here are the results:
Today (Tuesday) we flew up the coast to Salvador in the Bahia region, which is known for its sunny beaches and African-infused carnival atmosphere and so far it looks like the weather at least isn´t going to disappoint. We got our pasty bods out on the beach for a few hours this afternoon and are hoping the sun will keep his party hat on for the next 10 days before we head back to Rio to meet up with Louise and Vanessa.
Sunshine at last!
Hopefully our Portugese wll improve too. We have just got back from a Grange Hill-style dinner of mixed meat covered in thick cheese sauce as a result of being forced into another entirely random selection from the menu ´cos we can´t speak a word of it. Help!!
Hope all is well at home. Stay in touch,
Love Sarah and Phil x
