Urus is a mountain that I climbed last year and didn´t know it, but would become more and more familiar with the route over the two weeks we spent in the Ishinca valley. Round one on Urus was a failed attempt as Nick was not properly acclimitized and ready for the Andes. Right before the glacier, something wasn´t right...what nick kept calling "Acute Mountain Sickness" I just kept hearing excuses but we played it safe and headed back down to camp for a couple more days of acclimitizing along with bacon, eggs and pancakes, of course! After a week we again attempted Urus and this time had a load of success, although the pace was slow, we summitted and Nick got his first "high altitude" peak, and a new world record for both of us, four days, sixteen hours, twelve minutes, and four seconds....just kidding but it wasn´t exactly lighting speed but it didn´t matter, the view was worth it all. Just a side note: three days later, Luke did camp to camp in two hours and fifty five minutes and seven seconds just for fun. I wasn´t counting or anything but it was worth the exhausting effort to see the look on all those "French Alpinistas" faces at BC as they brewed up their cafe au laits at seven.
