When my alarm went off at 3.30am on the 22nd I really didn't want to get up in the freezing cold to go trekking all day....but I was ready by 4am and by 7am my new family for the next five days and I were in Mollepata for breakfast. Our 'family' was Maria & Dan an English couple and one of their friends Ed and an American family Chris & Rhoda and their two kids Jocelyn (17) and Shoshana (12), our guide Roger and our assistant guide Yosip. There was also our chef Daniel, a couple of Muleteers and a few other helpers.
The view of Cusco all lit up as we left was gorgeous and as the sun rose the scenery was beautiful and just inkling of what was to come over the next five days. After breakfast it was a few more hours on the bus to Head trail where we began our trek. The first part of the trek took us in between the Humantay and Salkantay Mountains. We reached our highest point (Abra Humantay) just after lunch at 4600 metres. At that altitude walking is hard going...not to mention the fact that it was bitterly cold. At the summit we had a bit of a ceremony where we asked the Salkantay mountain for a good trek (via blowing our request on 3 coca leaves towards the mountain!) and then offered the leaves to pachamama (mother earth) as well as a few drops of rum (and of course a little for ourselves). The mountains were just breathtaking - words do not do them justice - hopefully my pictures give at least some idea... (Dad you would have been in heaven).
We thankfully then descended to 3800 metres and reached our first campsite Huayracmachay. They told us that if it was cloudy it might be 5 degrees, but if not it may drop below zero. That night we had a superb view of the stars - not a cloud in sight - and the temperature was about minus 5!!!! Everything was frozen when we woke up the next day. Even in my thermals and special sleeping bag it was still cold...
The next day we hiked to Colocampampa - a much easier trek and not nearly as cold. We arrived at our campsite by early afternoon. The following day we trekked to La Playa, again arriving in the early afternoon. Until the 3rd day we had hardly seen anyone else on the trek. It was quite a shock to camp in a 'town' and be around people again. By the end of the 3rd day my knee was killing me, I did not want to see my hiking boots ever again and I was feeling sore and tired.
On the fourth day the group split into two...we had a choice of a mega hard trek - 3 hours up and 2 hours down a very steep mountain to see Machu Picchu from the back or a trip to a nearby town Sta Teresa and go to the hot springs. My guide advised me against the trek if my knee was hurting - I decided that not being able to walk for the rest of my holiday and possibly never being able to run again was probably not worth the risk. As it turned out all the girls thought the hot springs sounded great and the guys decided to go be boys... So we went to paradise - if heaven existed, it would be these hot springs. It was just absolutely amazing - so decadent and of course the views were stunning! The boys set a record of under 3 hours for their whole trek...they were all hurting and the guide even had a nap at lunch he was so exhausted!!
Lunch on teh 4th day was spent in Hidro Electrica and then a slightly bizarre train ride (we zig zagged up the mountain, stopping every now and then for them to switch the tracks for us to get onto the next and progessively higher section) took us to Aguas Calientes where we spent our fourth night....in a Hostal - shower!!! First one since I'd left Cusco....
On the 5th day we were woken at 4.15am and breakfast was at 4.20am....after packing and organising and a bus ride up the mountain in the dark we reached Machu Picchu around 6am. Again words cannot describe the feeling when you first see Machu Picchu nor the whole time we were there. It is quite simply an absolute wonder.
And eventually we were back in Cusco and it was over...
Other highlights/standouts:
All of the flora and fauna and the scenery (hopefully my photos when I upload them give you an idea).
The food throughout the trek was just sensational...despite all the walking we were eating so much I´m certain we all put on a kilo or two!!
Being woken up in my tent each morning with a cup of hot chocolate or coca tea.
The trip on the 'death bus' as we went from Sta Teresa to Hidro Electrica. The driver was absolutely loco! My nerves just can't handle stress like that! We were flying along blind corners on a cliff face on a road wide enough for one car with four of us squeezed into the back seat - and of course no seat belts. We had one close call when we almost had a head on around a corner - had to pass a number of cars (often required reversing...), we stopped at the 'petrol station' where the petrol comes in buckets and the 'bowser' is a funnel, almost ploughed down multiple kids, dogs and people in the town... Those of you who know what I'm like as a passenger, know that my brake was going overtime!!
The 'toilets' which were just holes in the ground and a tent around it, that sometimes had a functioning zipper! I got to know a whole lot more about the people on my trek than perhaps I would have otherwise!!
The one cup of real coffee I've had since being in South America. We were in La Playa and I got a black coffee made from local beans, brewed in a turkish type pot. So good I even took a photo.... (the coffee here is so crap I haven't been drinking it! Never had so many coffee free days since I started drinking it about 15 years ago...)
Having to pass a bus going in the other direction on a really narrow section of the "road" - which was actually a river crossing on a cliff face.
My family...we had such an amazing group. The variety in ages and backgrounds worked so well together and it was so sad when we said goodbye!
The small but very hot, hot spring on the 4th day and the 'gato negro' red wine in a carton that our guides pulled out...oh and the poisonous snake that I almost stood on the way down (I missed it because it moved) - my guide tells me its the second snake he's seen in three years...lucky me huh?!
Discovering another moth phobic!!!! I think Ed and I are the only two in the world.
There are so many other details but if I included everything this would be a novel!
