Drove southwards from Karimabad for around three hours today and now at the historically significant town of Gilgit. It is a "town" indeed and we're no longer in a picturesque rural mountain village. Gilgit has many small shops and markets along its main street as well as a mosque and a very badly-kept polo ground where some small boys were playing street cricket. Gilgit is well-known for its British occupation with two remnants from that era: a British-built wooden suspension bridge that spans the Gilgit River; and a forlorn cemetery overgrown with weeds, entered from a small metal door, where a dozen or so englishmen are buried dating from the late 19th century. The oldest tomb at the cemetery seems to date back to 1870 where Mr. Hayward, a noted explorer with the Royal Geographical Society, is buried. Other englishmen buried here are political agents from the early 20th century and more recently, mountain climbers who have lost their lives attempting ascents up the Pakistan peaks. I wonder how often the families of the dead make their way to this little corner of Pakistan to visit the graves.
I've also observed that the people seem more conspiciously conservatively dressed in Gilgit than up north. Indeed, I've been advised that we should expect people to be more conservative (Sunni-dominant) and headscarves are now recommended for all women travelling in this region although more slack is given to tourists. I won't be taking any chances.
Our guide has forbade us to walk freely in Gilgit and asked that we stay within the hotel premises. Fortunately, the Serena Gilgit Hotel (4* !!) has beautiful grounds and my room overlooks the hotel lawn which faces the Rakaposhi peak. But I don't have long to enjoy this hotel as we will set off early tomorrow morning southwards again for a nine hour bus ride towards Islamabad, stopping in Beshan for the night (and another 0.1* "hotel").
