Just so as to prove that I am really in Pakistan and that there are in fact both sectarian and anti-American troubles here as well as natural disasters, the forward itinerary is now up in the air. First - the good news: the Chinese government has closed the KKH border crossing for the next 10 days or so, so it's been really fortunate that we got through a couple of days ago.
From the border town of Sust, we had travelled southwards by boat towards Gulmit for a quick lunch pitstop at the Marco Polo Inn (visited by Prince Philip and the Aga Khan apparently) and then onto Karimabad in the Hunza Valley. There has been a landslide on a part of the KKH and so there was no choice but to go via boat down the turquoise waters of the Hunza River, flanked by sharp jutting cliffs on either side. Alongside human passengers (us), boatloads of car tyres and other goods from China were being carried down tbe river and unloaded at Karimabad to be further transported south. (See pics)
I am now resting at the Eagle's Nest Hotel (a 2* mountain chalet of sorts) at Karimabad in the Hunza Valley for a couple of days before continuing the journey southwards. The Eagle's Nest is perched on a hillside overlooking a lush verdant valley of fruit trees and other crops, and facing a series of snow-capped peaks, including one known as the Lady's Finger because of its curved sharp edge like a lady's manicured finger. I have a spectacular sunset view of the mountain ranges from my room (see photos) although electricity is somewhat erratic - but hey, a small price.
The Hunza Valley is largely inhabited by Ismaili muslims, the least restrictive form of Islam. Many of the women do not shroud their heads and I am told most of them enjoy the same education as men. Indeed we bumped into many schoolgirls and boys in the village and fortuitously crashed an exciting shotput match and Tug-o-war at a local school. Without meaning to sound superficial, many the people in this part of the world have truly stunning looks with their pale olive skin, high cheekbones and light green eyes. I hope the model scouts won't be ravaging Hunza Valley just yet. (See pics). The Ismailis' religious leader is the Aga Khan who is well-known for having married Rita Hayworth.
There are a few interesting sites in the Hunza Valley including the Baltit Fort which was originally inhabited by the Mir (King) of Hunza and that area is the location of the British invasion in 1891. Today, we also drove to an adjacent valley, the Nagar Valley, following the route of the Nagar River, on a short hike to view a glacier near the Golden Peak (see photos).
But the day ended with another change of plans. Our journey southwards towards Islamabad has now also been blocked by landslides and so driving through the stark and spectacular Babusar Pass is now out of the question, as is hiking (or taking a mule) up Fairy Meadows and trekking to the base camp of Nanga Parbat (the ninth highest peak in the world and also known as the "Killer Mountain"). Gilgit and perhaps even Lahore are possibly also looking somewhat dangerous. Unfortunately, there's only one drive-worthy highway towards the south onto Lahore (where we will be crossing the border into India) so there's not much choice. As it stands, it looks like we will just swing past Gilgit for a quick overnight stop, but spend an extra day in Islamabad which is so far secure. The good news is (the silver lining!) that we will be able to visit the Taxila ruins which is a UNESCO World Heritage site of the Gandharan buddhas.
We will be taking each day as it comes.
