THE WATERWAYS OF THE GAMBIA… Copyright Geof Prigge
geofprigge@yahoo.com.au
www.geofprigge.com
Everywhere in the world, waterways vary enormously, from the abundant life on Australia’s Great Barrier Reef to the rubbish-strewn beaches of parts of Africa and from the cold mysterious waters of Patagonia in Chile where giant glaciers flow into blue-green lakes, to the Turkish Mediterranean with her crystal clear waters and ancient sunken cities.
In a small region in West Africa, there are so many contrasts from one area to the next that it becomes a major talking point for all who visit. This is The Gambia, a small country measuring only 25 to 45 kilometres wide by 475 in length, most of which is alongside the Gambia River. This offers the visitor an extremely different holiday experience.
From paddling dug-out canoes on the molongs to catching the cross bay ferry, to hiring a catamaran enjoying the fresh offshore breeze, or just going nowhere on a houseboat in the mangroves, an experience here is truly enjoyable.
The Gambia is almost entirely surrounded by French speaking Senegal, except of course for the ocean fringe. You feel a long way from anywhere, but English is the main Ianguage, The Gambia being a former British colony.
The capital is Banjul, a hectic town with a main trading street leading up from the port. It is by no means however one of the attractions of the country.
For those who visit this delightful part of West Africa, an array of beaches and wildlife awaits. You see all sorts of things here without going anywhere – birdlife in the trees, dolphins if you’re near the coast, hippos further upstream and on shore there are chimpanzee, lion and antelope.
The coast is sprinkled with villages offering wonderful attractions, from the fish smoking factories and fascinating museum of Tanji, the solitude of Paradise Beach and the sandy beaches of the outer bays around Gunjur. There’s also the 5 star hotels and night-life of Bakau and nearby areas making this tiny country quite a gem on the West African coastline.
And it is here in Bakau where you’ll find The African Village Hotel. Traditional round-huts overlooking the ocean allow the visitor to enjoy the fishing boats as they come and go past the hotel’s private beach, or sit back and enjoy the service beside the garden pool. General Manager Francis Njie, can be contacted on (220) 4495034 and his email: europrop@qanet.gm or africanvillagehotel@yahoo.com
More upmarket and a good base from which to explore the country is The Senegambia Hotel, situated slightly south of Bakau. The hotel is also headquarters for one of the best organised tour groups in the country, ‘The Gambia Experience’. General Manager Joyce Stravrolakis and her team can organise any tour you could imagine. Her number is (220) 4460805 or 4460317. Email joyce@gxp.gm Website www.gambia.co.uk
One favourite destination is the village Juffure, home of the ancestors of black American writer Alex Haley, author of ‘Roots’. Along the river, one can still see the remains of the former slave trade.
Today, the country survives around this river and it is divided into two distinct zones, estuarine and freshwater. The salt water area extends 150 kilometres upstream. The river is home to hippos, crocodiles and yes, even dolphins.
Upstream where the water is fresh, the banks of the river are lined with beautiful gallery forest. There are natural highlights all the way along the river from attractions like the chimpanzee colony on what is known as Baboon Island to The Abuko Reserve which is the principal Nature Reserve in the country, and home to one of the last refuges for the very threatened hippopotamus within The Gambia.
Also upriver are the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau. These have now been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old.
The main feature of the river however is the enormous number of bird species that live here. Bird-spotting is the number one tourist drawcard. Visitors have been known to sit for hours and just watch the birdlife, listening to their weird and wondrous language - like the Greater Honeyguide with its Whit-purr, Whit-purr or their excited rattling chitik chitik chitik and the hundreds of others with their unusual calls. Others have simply enjoyed days end and marvelled as the setting sun turns the clouds above to liquid gold.
It’s possible to enjoy this river-setting on the outer Mandini Molong where the eco-resort Makasutu is located. Luxurious houseboats, built entirely from local materials, offer the guest a completely relaxing vacation. Built amongst the mangroves, each houseboat is very private. Walk ashore along the elevated walkways and you are pampered by staff who really know the meaning of service. A large swimming pool, an open-air restaurant and several bars allow guests to experience a holiday like no other. Visit their website at: www.makasutu.com
Sitting with a Julbrew, the local beer, on the deck of a houseboat allowing the birdlife to come to you is not a typical African experience, but it definitely is a relaxing way to holiday.
