Contrasts of a Blue Planet

Gallery: Global Hands

ontheroadandoff — Wed, 4 Apr 2007 11:30:00 GMT

Charity Work

GLOBAL HANDS CHARITY

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 3 Apr 2007 17:07:00 GMT

For readers of Vacation & Travel and anyone interested in donating ideas or money to the building of our second school in The Gambia or our first orphanage in Nepal, feel free to contact me at geofprigge@yahoo.com.au or visit www.globalhandscharity.com and see the unique work we're doing.

Thanks to all the sponsors so far!

A Nursery School in Africa

ontheroadandoff — Sun, 7 Jan 2007 12:17:00 GMT

GLOBAL HANDS

I am writing these notes to raise awareness for a project I’ve been involved with in The Gambia West Africa from where I’ve just returned. In August 2005 a school was named in my honour simply from making the effort of addressing the children in a small regional school and telling them about Australia. A few months later I sent them a package of books and other educational material and I later found out that this was more books than any member of the village had seen in one place in their lives. Because of my Aussie generosity, small though it was, the village elders decided to call their new school after me. When I returned to The Gambia, I felt obliged to become more involved.

What we have now, after working on the school most of last year (2006), is considered a fine example of a children’s school in West Africa. We’ve extended the school buildings to include a library, craft room, kitchen, playing areas including a football field and we’ve cleared land sufficient enough to establish a farm. We grow fruits like bananas, mangoes and oranges and lots of vegetables and herbs.

What we do is more than help the kids learn in the conventional way from books and good example. We also teach them to grow crops and to help feed the local villagers, their families. We teach them about trading, bartering their excess to obtain other items necessary for their survival. We teach them how to play and not just footy. Our football field is used for soccer, running races, even Frisbee and bowling. What we’ve developed with a bit of Aussie ingenuity is something quite unique from the dustbowl of this part of West Africa. We even took the kids out on the water which for many of them was a first.

I’m back in Australia to establish a charity and raise funds. Already we’ve broadened our horizons and have a project up and running in Nepal at The Destitute Children’s Home and we hope that before long we’ll be doing a lot more. We’ll be calling ourselves Global Hands and would like to direct you to our website www.globalhandscharity.com so that you can read more about our efforts in what will soon be Australia’s newest charity. I’m writing here on the World Nomads website because we need help and I thought you, the reader, might like involvement in something unique and highly rewarding. We need sponsors and ideas. It’s as simple as that. We want to raise awareness and therefore funds for what we’re doing. Global Hands will be a hands-on charity. We don’t plan to give fish, but instead teach people how to fish. World Nomads has helped considerably. Go to http://footprints.worldnomads.com/default.aspx?c=10&x1=8 to find out how.

My email address is geofprigge@yahoo.com.au and my other website is at www.geofprigge.com

My life has changed from 2004 when I sold my aerial photography business in Sydney and hit the road, but the lives of my 115 little students in The Gambia have changed much more. Because we are now such a fine example of schooling in the area, others want and deserve assistance. With the help of people like you we may be able to achieve a lot more than any of us ever dreamed. Please help if you can.

Geof Prigge.

Gallery: THAILAND

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 23 Sep 2006 12:56:00 GMT

ASSORTED PICS

Gallery: VIETNAM

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 23 Sep 2006 12:55:00 GMT

ASSORTED PICS

SOUTH-EAST ASIA

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 23 Sep 2006 12:53:00 GMT

SOUTH-EAST ASIA
Copyright Geof Prigge
geofprigge@yahoo.com.au
www.geofprigge.com

There are many highlights to South-east Asia but also a considerable number of drawbacks. In Cambodia there are the magnificent and impressive 13^th century ruins at Angkor Wat near the town of Sien Riep. There is so much to see, it’s possible to spend days in this one locality alone. The capital Phnom Penh too is well worth more than just a passing visit.
The best way into Vietnam is by boat along the Mekong River. It is by no means a beautiful experience for the majority who visit the area, but it is rewarding. To see how the people live on the water is certainly worthwhile. But there is no sanitation, so it’s advisable to keep your mouth shut on windy days when the tiniest droplet of water blown in on the breeze could find its way to the lips of an unsuspecting visitor and lead to all manner of health problems.
Other highlights of this part of south-east Asia are the waterways of Ha Long Bay, truly a breathtaking part of Vietnam, and being ocean there’s less chance of disease in the waters. Also spectacular are the hills of the Sapa region in the north-west, where the people are friendly in the extreme and their lifestyles a pleasure to experience. The scenery too is awe inspiring.
The major cities of Saigon and Hanoi are worth a visit. Saigon though in recent years has seen the introduction of the motor-bike and it is a bewildering experience to behold as thousands of the modern day beast descend on you from all directions. The incessant blowing of horns in this and other parts of Asia is a tiring experience too.
Not all of south-east Asia is as one would expect. The coastal regions of Thailand for example are sadly lacking in pollution control and the evidence of an uncaring population is everywhere. The postcards and glossy books of the region depict pristine beaches bathed in glorious sunshine, but this is far from the reality of most places. When the tide is out, confirmation of mankind’s lack of thought for his environment is spread far and wide. Rusty cans, broken bottles and plastic in astonishing quantities are a sad indictment of modern man’s approach to his world.
Thailand too wins my prize for the worst restaurant staff in the world. Meals are never synchronised to arrive together and some never make it to the table at all. Repeated requests fall on deaf ears. I experienced one humourous moment when a group of six asked for cutlery with which to eat their meal. The meals had arrived without any implements to eat with, and when the waiter returned, he brought six knives. When asked for forks, he came back with two more knives. Drinks arrive without glasses. Glasses arrive without drinks. One restaurant ‘Sunrise Tropical Resort’ at East Railay Beach off the Krabi coast is particularly worthy of mention. A staff member asked my friend and me to leave in the strangest manner I’ve yet experienced in a restaurant anywhere. We’d entered the place noticing their very presentable smorgasbord breakfast and asked at reception if we could join what appeared to be guests from their own rooms and others too. We were welcomed and offered a seat, stating that we could order either from the smorgasbord or a la carte. We sat down and waited many long moments before being served. A gruff man came over finally and as I started my order, he said this: ‘You go, you no guest." I asked what he meant, saying that we’d been shown a seat and offered a menu by the receptionist. "You no stay here, you go…I manager, go - you no guest." So we did, but not before telling him we’d been welcomed and seated by his staff. People like this really lose out in the end. That evening as a group of eight were about to go in and have dinner there, I told one of them this story, and after deliberation they unanimously decided to go elsewhere.
I find it depressing in the extreme to see this sort of thing happening. There is no excuse for poorly trained staff, especially at the management level.
It is also depressing to see locals lying about in a state of lethargy waiting for a customer for their boat or to sell them something: "Hullo sir, you want buy?" "You want boat ride?" "You want eat my restaurant?" My advice would be for half of them to actually work and put in a day’s genuine effort, and the other half to start cleaning up their environment. Working in shifts of day on, day off, the whole filthy face of Thailand’s potentially beautiful coastline could be quickly cleaned up. Education on keeping it that way and preserving what they have for future generations would be the responsibility of the authorities, but it’s not an impossible task. Then they’d probably discover that the discerning tourists, those who actually stay away from the place at the moment, would start coming in increasing numbers and everyone would be better off.
Other parts of Asia are a delight to visit. Nepal, after years of Maoist rebellion and a monarchy with closed eyes, has a population of truly wonderful, generally honest and hard-working people. They go out of their way to please visitors and are always willing to negotiate a fair price…whether it’s for accommodation, a carving or a rickshaw ride.
In India, they are insistent to the point of being rude and rarely take no for an answer.
In Tibet, the people are perhaps the most genuinely straightforward in the whole region. Their Chinese neighbours however are often the exact opposite.
South-east Asia and many of her neighbours could well do with a combined tourist awareness and staff-training campaign, but I know that’s only a dream when so many and varied cultures are involved. Those that work hard and put in an effort to progress in the true sense of the word will be the successful countries of the future, the ones who our children and grandchildren will grow to love and respect.

VIETNAM

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 23 Sep 2006 12:50:00 GMT

VIETNAM…copyright Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

According to a recent survey by the WTTC (The World Travel & Tourism Council) Vietnam has the 6^th highest growth rate in tourism in the world. And with moves afoot to rectify some of the fundamental problems like pollution, it seems that the number of tourists visiting this South-east Asian country will continue to increase.

From the highlights of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in the south and Hanoi, Sapa and Ha Long Bay in the north, there is a lot on offer in all levels of the tourist industry.

In Ho Chi Minh City, once the visitor masters crossing the road and dodging the tens of thousands of motor-bikes, the most popular destination is actually a two hour journey from the city centre at Cu Chi. A labyrinth of underground tunnels totalling 250km, these were used to hide from the Americans during the Vietnam War. The tour can be organised by any one of a number of tour operators. En route, a visit to the workshop of the disabled (predominantly people affected by ‘agent orange’ and their offspring), is mandatory.

In the north, Hanoi offers a quieter experience than Saigon although the pace is still a little frantic for some. The highlight here is the Ho Chi Minh Museum with it’s wonderful displays and impressive gardens and walkways.

Sapa is a town of mountain dwellers at an elevation of 1600 metres. There are countless trekking opportunities and the scenery is spectacular. The people you meet as you wander through the hills are happy and industrious. They’ll walk with you for hours in the hope that you’ll eventually buy something from them, but don’t care at all if you purchase nothing. Their smiles and laughter are perhaps the most contagious in the world.

At Ha Long Bay, there are opportunities to either float quietly on an old junk as you ply the waters of the Tonkin Gulf at plankton pace, or hop in a fast boat and take it all in as you zoom past dramatic mountains of rock in every direction. Many people believe that this is the best ocean experience available in all of Asia. Staying on board overnight on one of the slower vessels enables the visitor to enjoy the starry night sky in all its dazzling beauty and to sleep with the sound of the sea gently lapping at the hull.

Many visitors to Vietnam are choosing a relatively new way of holidaying here, by staying away from the tourist hotels to experience an interaction with local communities and being a part of a family, even if only for a night or two. The Homestay network is growing and is well worth the time to investigate the many options available.

To forego some of the usual creature comforts is not everyone’s idea of a holiday, but for those who do, a rich assortment of experiences awaits. Imagine sitting in a bamboo home on stilts above the water, sipping rice wine and listening to stories of the lives of these people, as a meal is prepared in the next room. A highly popular homestay destination is the Mekong Delta. Those lucky enough to come here will take away memories of sight and sound unique even to Vietnam. To enjoy a spectacular sunset across the waters of the Mekong, catch a glimpse of the new moon in a twilight sky and marvel at the chatter of voices from the kitchen or the distant laughter of children at play, are memories that only those who stay with a family will experience.

That having been said however, there are also experiences which fall in between the usual hotel style holiday and the homestay experience. One example is to be found at Jungle Beach, 60 kilometres north of Nha Trang on the east coast. Tel: 058-622-384 and email:

Owner Sylvio Lamarche from Canada believes that this area offers a great deal. He paddled in on a kayak 5 years ago and decided to stay. So far he’s built 15 beach huts with plans for nine more. Situated at the foot of imposing mountains, Jungle Beach is extremely laid back. For $AU22 per person a night, you get not only your room but all the food you can eat, with menu changes daily. Kilometres of fine white sand greet you and there’s swimming and snorkelling opportunities here and around the nearby rocks.

Future plans include a communal spa, sunken decks and canoe hire. The highlight of a stay here varies depending on who you ask, but it seems a toss up between the chance of night swimming marvelling at the phosphorescence you create as you glide through the water, or the possibility of spotting the black shank douc langur monkey (Pygathix Cinereus), whose home is the jungle of the nearby hills.

However you decide to enjoy your visit to Vietnam though, you’ll leave with memories of spectacular scenery, rich history and a population of friendly obliging people.

Gallery: Germany

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 16 May 2006 00:44:00 GMT

Bavaria

Germany

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 16 May 2006 00:42:00 GMT

GERMANY… Copyright Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

Germany offers the visitor almost everything one could imagine. From skiing some of the best powder slopes in the world during winter - to sailing, swimming and kite-surfing picturesque lakes in the summer. There’s rock climbing, paragliding, hiking - and the country is often described as one of the most spectacular areas in Europe. My favourite region is Bavaria.

For those interested in travelling to the south in order to see what’s on offer, Munich is a fantastic place to start. The city is considered very safe and apart from the Oktoberfest, offers a considerable number of real highlights.

The museums are plentiful from the famous Deutsches Museum, Germany’s leading museum of science, engineering and transportation to the BMW Museum, Bavaria Filmstadt Geiselgesteig (Europe’s largest film studio), and lots more.

There are beer halls and restaurants serving the world’s best beers and gastronomic delights that the most critical food connoisseur would appreciate.

Some that are worth a visit are the Weißes Brauhaus, Ratskeller, Augustiner Holbeinstube or simply eat outside (weather permitting) in the Viktualienmarkt right beside Marienplatz and enjoy a bratwurst or leberkäse with potato salad.

The underground U-Bahn and S-Bahn are easy to master and efficient to the minute. The networks are extensive.

There are beautiful churches, famous castles, numerous breweries, spectacular shops, history at every turn and a population willing to speak English and practice their skills.

Highlights like the Glockenspiel in the city’s Rathaus capture the attention of thousands of tourists daily, but the dancing figures are far less impressive than what is offered elsewhere throughout this beautiful region.

Zugspitze is one such location where you can ride the cogwheel railway and see four countries as you ascend. This is Germany’s highest mountain, and apart from seeing four different countries you are also able to look over to where King Ludwig built a castle on a very isolated mountain top called Schachen. From the outside it looks like a humble rock and timber dwelling, but inside it transforms itself into a real palace, much of it built underground and into the mountain, but with views of the Zugspitze and all the nearby mountains and impressive valleys. He built many castles throughout all of Bavaria, and just about every one of them was either weird and wacky or over the top with crazy opulence. It’s said that he was a total party animal into all sorts of 19^th century drugs and to top it off was gay as well. He died in the nearby Starnbergersee near where Bob Marley spent his final months fighting cancer. Nobody knows if King Ludwig drowned, committed suicide or was killed. There are many theories.

Nearby is the River Partnach and one of the most beautiful river walks imaginable. Dramatically high and impressive cliffs, fast flowing waters, a walkway right beside the river and cave after cave to meander through. It is surreal.

At the end of the walk is the famous ski jump of the winter Olympics at Garmisch itself.

My advice is to spend a few days wandering around Munich first and see what happens. Apart from churches and castles, beer halls, monasteries and museums, you’ll come across street musicians like nowhere else on earth. My favourite is Ivan Hajek, arguably the finest aficionado of the accordion in the world. People like this captivate the crowds and give Munich it’s reputation as a cultural hub of Europe.

After a few days in this fantastic city, head south, into the lake area. Starnberg, Ammersee, Pilsensee, Wörthsee, Kochelsee and hundreds more. If you’re lucky enough to take a flight over this part of Germany, it’ll take your breath away. In any season, it is nothing short of spectacular.

Gallery: Nathalie Burger

ontheroadandoff — Thu, 4 May 2006 02:14:00 GMT

World Photography

Nathalie Burger

ontheroadandoff — Thu, 4 May 2006 02:12:00 GMT

Nathalie Burger…photographer. Copyright Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

Renowned French photographer Nathalie Burger is considering a major career move in order to be closer to the people whom she loves dearly, the Moroccans. Nathalie currently calls Quebec home, but her desire to be in North Africa has grown after several trips to the region over the years.

She is on the verge of moving to Marrakech, which for many people is a totally enchanting place, where the aromas of freshly cooked fish and spices mix with the tantalising music of the street musicians and snake charmers. Nathalie will call this her home and extend her already extensive image library of Morocco.

Her photos tell the stories of many peoples across the world, from her country of birth France to the Himalayas, South America, Asia and of course Africa.

She has trekked snow-covered passes in Nepal, camped out in order to capture the magic ways that light effects Patagonian glaciers, lived with various families throughout Asia and has been on safari in Kenya.

Her black & white photography is stunning, but both her colour and black & white work show a fascinating understanding of her subjects. Specialising in the theme of Solitude, she seizes tantalising moments, and a small example of these can be found in the adjoining gallery, as well as some examples of her other work.

Nathalie can be contacted at: nathalie.burger@sympatico.ca

Gallery: CHILE

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 22 Apr 2006 04:31:00 GMT

From North to South

CHILE...Surprises at every turn

ontheroadandoff — Sat, 22 Apr 2006 04:26:00 GMT

CHILE…SURPRISES AT EVERY TURN…Copyright by Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

Pre-historic cacti, seaweed along the rocks, seagulls larger than life, surging swell, fine white sandy beaches…this is Isla Damas on Chile’s coast in the Coquimbo region.

This wonderful sanctuary off the mid Chilean coast is one of three islands known locally as Tres Islas…Isla Choros, Isla Damas and Isla Gaviota, and the area is home not only to a vast array of cacti, some with spectacular and delicate flowers, but also to sea-lions, cormorants, bottle-nosed dolphins and Humboldt penguins. For 5000 pesos (about $US10) you can go by fishing boat to all three islands and spot an amazing variety of these and more.

There’s no human habitation apart from the odd camper to disturb the tranquillity…and remote, that’s not the word for it. The closest city of La Serena is 123km away and the final 45 kilometres is a rough winding dirt road.

The village that you reach before embarking on the fishing boats that take you out to the islands has no mobile phone service, no internet and no paved roads. It is however a delightfully dusty fishing village called Punta De Choros on the southern extremity of the Atacama Desert. There’s an array of cabanas to choose from, and some even offer hot water. The pick is Las Ananucas Amarilis owned by Juan and Sylvia…tel: 09-447 5200.

There are a couple of shops for provisions, but there’s not a lot on offer, except the beautiful peace and quiet.

Offshore, the underwater visibility is crystal clear. You can witness sea lions and dolphins performing antics above and below the surface. Just lean out over the side of the boat and you can witness all sorts of surprises, the antics of the dolphins being the favourite for most visitors.

Chile offers this sort of experience regularly, the tranquillity of nature that is. The country is long and narrow, but varied in the extreme. From warm sub-tropical beaches to inland deserts, spectacular mountains and glaciers at the bottom of the world, Chile offers the visitor a different adventure at every turn.

To give a few examples, consider this. The island of Isla Magdalena is a short boat trip from Punta Arenas. The town itself is fascinating in that it attracts all sorts of people. It’s quite an eclectic bunch of folk who congregate down here from adventure freaks and research scientists, to trekkers and wilderness aficionados to general tourists, cruise ship junkies and mountain bikers.

Accommodation is varied as always but Hospedaje Gloria at 1174 Mejicana Tel: 227678 and email: yoya_h@hotmail.com at 6000 pesos per person, is a better deal than many around town. 9000 pesos though gets you a bit more value, the best in this range being La Estancia at 765 O’Higgins Ave. right in the heart of town Tel: 056-61 249130. Email: carmenalecl@yahoo.com

Apart from a visit to the island where it’s possible to meet a few thousand Humboldt penguins in an afternoon, you can also choose almost any adventure you can think of, and go and do it. This is the southern-most inhabited area in the world, and the departure point for Antarctic expeditions. So it’s a hub for south-bound expeditions of all sorts. As well, it’s only a few hours drive from Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, the departure point for trekking into the Patagonian mountains. There’s very little accommodation available inside the park, so most people choose to stay in Puerto Natales at either or both ends of a trip into the park itself. One of the friendliest is Sutherland Residencial Lodging at Barros Arana 155. Tel: 410359. The owner Margarita is lovely. She suggested dinner at the Restaurant Espanol around the corner on Avenue Magdalena and the meal we had was superb, a steak that was cooked to perfection. The owner told us that the cows eat only grass and breathe the best air in the world. No chemicals are used during their life.

The park itself is 100km away. Once there you should spend several days either trekking or simply walking whenever you can. There are waterfalls, snow-capped mountains, spectacular scenery and glaciers galore. The three hour boat journey to and from the glacier we visited was spectacular every minute of the trip. The highlight was the fantastic blues of the glacier itself. We were all treated to scotch on the rocks and whisky sours with 5 million year old ice. The ice looked so clear and perfect…and after 4 of them we were all quite merry as we chugged away across the lake.

From Punta Arenas we flew north, our next stop being Petrohue. We stayed in a hostel that was pretty rough…a sort of annexe to the main house which was the residence for the camping ground. At 18000 pesos a night for a double with ensuite, it was certainly not cheap. The location however was great.

After settling in, we went back across to the other side of the waterway to see what was happening with tours etc, and as luck would have it, a boat trip around the lake and to the nearby island was leaving within minutes, so we joined in and went. It was well worth it. This lake with the imposing volcanoes is quite dramatic. It’s very special to see a snow-capped volcano rising out of a lake. The boat trip took half an hour and we had a great guide by the name of Christian Ruz Parga, who told us that the park is one of the oldest in the country, being gazetted in 1926. It’s 250,000ha in size, and there are 3 volcanoes here, one extinct at 2460m, another whose last activity was in 1830, and finally one at 2015m which erupted in quite spectacular fashion in 1961. The highest mountain in the area is 3500m and has 7 glaciers, 4 on the Argentinean side and 3 here. The colour of the lake is due to the minerals from these glaciers as they melt. Salmon and trout are the prominent species.

After 30 mins we arrived at the island, pulled into the private wharf and walked throughout the island for about an hour. Purchased by a Swiss family in 1906, they truly found paradise. Thousand year old trees, beautiful beaches and an inland lake make a perfect setting. The original circular house still stands. The plan was to have it rotating, but the cost was too high to do so. They do however have a hydro-electric system where the fall of the water from the underground spring after it rises, is used to supply electricity for the homestead. It was all quite impressive.

After our tour and more information from Christian on the flora and fauna of the island, we headed back and boarded the boat. The wind had come up and a few white horses made the scene even more dramatic. Our night at the rustic hostel was great with the moon shining upon the waters of the lake and shadows of volcanoes changing by the minute.

We left late the next morning and ventured to remote Peulla, staying in the upstairs loft in the home of the Martinez family. Each day we were able to find new and interesting places to stay and people to share a meal with. This family was not too well off and jumped at the opportunity of having paying guests. Senora Martinez cooked a delicious meal for us and the children enjoyed practising their English. We used this as a base for our horse-riding adventures, but found time for swims and walks to waterfalls and simply relaxing too.

Next on our itinerary was Ensenada, one of the most beautiful places imaginable. The scenery was like this…to the west it was all lake, as far as the eye could see and big enough to create the illusion that it’s the sea. The setting sun turns whatever clouds are on the horizon to liquid gold. To the south east is the volcano called Volcan Osorno, with snow all year round. The forests are everywhere, with just the small spread-out village along the shores of the lake. Over a dozen lakes and lagoons of various sizes are sprinkled amongst the forests and are mostly linked by roads except for the inaccessible ones that you can only get to by 4WD or horse. All of them are within an afternoon’s drive or boat ride. The blues of the lakes, fjords and the sky are amazing. Near to where we stayed was also a green lagoon known as Laguna Verde. Its deep emerald colour was wild. There were lots of rafting possibilities with grade 3 and 4 drops, but the most impressive thing of all was that you could ski within a thirty minute drive from the main lake and watch people sailing as you carved turns on the hillside of a volcano that last erupted in1961, thus making it far from extinct. It’s active and ready to go off whenever Mother Nature feels like it. From skiing and mountain-climbing to white-water rafting, horse riding and windsurfing, to mountain-biking, kite-surfing and sailing, there is all this and lots more to do here…and much of it all year round! It’s an extremely impressive environment.

We stayed at Hospedaje La Arena with the Luckeheide family and the email address is nic_luck@hotmail.com

This is the area in which Douglas Tompkins of Esprit fame has called home. He uses a nearby village (Ralun) as a base to fight the Chilean government on environmental issues. Some years ago he sold off 75% of his company specifically to buy 275,000ha of rainforest in the Valley of the Rio Gonzalo and has plans to protect the area ad infinitum.

Our next stop was Chonchi and we stayed at the Hospedaje Esmeralda on the waterfront, which at low tide was a bit drab. High tide always improves things and it was no exception in Chonchi. We had what was known as the Fisherman’s Room and it was a bit like being aboard an old sailing ship. The cost was 12000 pesos a night for the room. Tel (65) 671328 and email is: carlosgrady@hotmail.com The Canadian owner of the place, Carl Grady, is quite eccentric and has lots of stories to share. The town was very sleepy until 15 years ago when the salmon industry kicked in. Until then most of the townsfolk didn’t even own a pair of shoes, but now, they are quite affluent in a Chilean sort of way. The church was the brightest building in town being several shades of blue, but inside, the majority of the roof was supported by rough tree trunks as a temporary measure to ensure it stays standing. Many of the other buildings are still of timber construction and a bit rough around the edges.

There was still plenty more in our two month holiday in and around Chile. Next stop was Cucao, a delightful little coastal village on the Lago Cucao where the River Cole Cole enters. The best accommodation was a new hostel…the Parador Darwin, which is owned and operated by a German woman by the name of Susi from Freiburg and her Chilean husband Rolando, an artist and photographer. Their place is fantastic. Situated a few metres past the new bridge, they offer large private rooms with shared bath in a delightful garden setting. Her restaurant at the garden entrance serves beaut goulash and home-made cakes. We discovered this hostel after hearing melodic jazz music coming from the place on our return from a walk through the national park (Parque Nacional Chiloe) and along the beach. Her website is www.cucao.cl and tel: 0056-97999923 and 98840702. The National Park camping area is far better than most we’d seen in Chile in that each site offers privacy with trees everywhere.

Our final stop in this section of the trip before returning to Santiago and venturing on to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) was Pisco Elqui, (renamed after the alcoholic beverage they produce here). Our accommodation was more up-market than usual at the El Tesoro de Elqui for 28000 pesos a night including breakfast, more than double the normal rate we’d been paying, but there was a pool there and the whole place is built in an impressive oasis. Their email address is: info@tesoro-elqui.cl and website: www.tesoro-elqui.cl tel: (56) 51-451069. The sunsets through the hills were magic every day. Long shadows blanketed the town as each night arrived. We’d come because it was a UFO spotting area. Whether any had been seen over the years or it was the effect of the local Pisco is anyone’s guess, but this remote Chilean town was the perfect conclusion to our holiday before heading back to the capital and across the Pacific.

Gallery: GAMBIA 2006

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:26:00 GMT

Travel + School

A SCHOOL WITH A DIFFERENCE

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:20:00 GMT

A SCHOOL WITH A DIFFERENCE

Name: Geof Prigge Nursery School

www.globalhandscharity.com

Location: Serakundanding Village near Brikama The Gambia West Africa

In August of 2005 a school was named in my honour, simply by making an effort the previous year during my stay in this West African country, to teach the students of the area a bit about Australia. On my return to my home a few months later, I sent them a box of educational material (mostly books) and I discovered that none of the villagers had ever seen so many books in one place in all their lives. This made them decide to call their existing school after me. Previously it had no name at all.

I’ve just completed a three month stint back in The Gambia assisting the local community to extend the building and make some fundamental changes to the education of those 115 students who are lucky enough to call this their school.

When I arrived, the building was rather drab, a little neglected, but with no money available even for books and pens, it’s no wonder that the school was in need of a face-lift. It consisted of four rooms, two of which were classrooms and the others, a staff room and a craft room.

We started by purchasing the necessary items that a school needs even in rural Africa. Items like stationery, information on health and hygiene, an extensive medical kit, clean water containers and lots of games were purchased immediately. We also removed a single panel of corrugated iron from each of the four rooms and replaced these with corrugated plastic, thus enabling natural light to enter the rooms and alleviating the need for solar lighting. The effect was amazing. The kids could now see what they were doing. That was the first month.

Then came the extensions to the existing building. We built a new room measuring 7 metres X 7 metres, the biggest room now in the school, added to the eastern side. It became a kitchen. With two cooking areas and enough space for the kids to eat in two sittings, it is large and open and airy. The walls are predominantly mozzie screens allowing lots of ventilation, something unheard of in traditional building in West Africa. Also new was our method of bagging the concrete instead of rendering. This not only saved concrete (and therefore money), but it also looked better, the rough finish approved by all.

Next on the agenda was a craft room at the other end of the school, the western end. Measuring 7 metres X 4 metres, it replaced the existing tiny craft room where only 10 students could be at any one time. That room was converted to a library.

One very positive fact worth mentioning is that the mothers of some of the children began making cushions and pillows (before the craft room was even finished), and their first customer purchased 40 pillows for his hotel, bringing in a phenomenal profit, covering all costs and enabling us to buy a sewing machine and still have money left over. As well, a craft stall was offered by the owners of Makasutu, a nearby eco-resort, and two of the ladies started a stall there. One day during that second month, I took all the students to Makasutu. It was one of those memorable days in education which involved a huge overland 4WD to transport them in several loads, a wander through a craft market to see how things are produced - pottery in the kiln, weaving and so on, then a walk through the forest followed by a canoe trip on the river. To see over a hundred little African smiles and hear them sing as they gently paddled through the mangroves was a wonderful memory for me…and great for the kids and teachers too.

During that second month, we also measured out two areas in the scrub beside the school, performed the necessary clearing and started a farm with more than fifty separate plots, and a separate playing field beside the farm. Two students and a nominated parent had the responsibility for each plot in which is now growing an assortment of herbs and vegetables. Now remember that these kids are young. They are learning new tricks that other kids in Africa are unable to. The students are aged from 2 to 8 years. From here they go on to Primary School, and it is hoped that the education they receive here will put them in a better position to excel at the next level.

They have two composting areas used on a rotational basis, and all water is currently carried from the nearby well by hand. We are currently looking into ways of using solar panels to enable us to draw water and irrigate easier.

This is now a unique little school in a dry and dusty corner of West Africa. It’s an area though where there is so much potential. Tourism is bringing in people in large numbers, and although they often pay for their holidays before they leave home, giving little help to the locals, that is changing. More and more companies are becoming responsible and are involving local communities in everything they do. The future for these kids is therefore brighter than ever before in the history of The Gambia. Remember that it only gained independence in 1965. Prior to that, it was a British colony with a sad history of over a hundred years of subjugation and neglect.

We are now moving on to Stage 2 and we are ahead of schedule, something of a surprise for most people who see much of Africa as slow-moving and un-progressive, where people - due to a lack of stimulus - lay about in a constant state of lethargy. The community of Serakundanding is different. They want their children to benefit from what the future can offer.

The agenda for the near future involves developing the existing business of cushion and pillow production from the soon-to-be-completed craft room, and also the start of another new idea out of the kitchen. The villagers, with the help of the students, plan to start making orange juice, which in their village and the nearby town of Brikama, is non-existent. Who knows where that may lead! There are orange trees everywhere throughout much of Africa and The Gambia is no exception. The school also plans to plant over a hundred various juvenile citrus trees this month and a new variety of mango tree shortly after.

The school motto is ‘Let Your Light Shine’, and I think all who visit the school will agree that the students and teachers are doing exactly that.

The students, teachers and villagers would like to thank all those who have helped with various contributions.

Anyone wishing to make a donation to the school can contact me direct at:

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

GAMBIA REVISITED

ontheroadandoff — Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:17:00 GMT

GAMBIA REVISITED…Copyright Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

Most countries with coastal regions throughout the world offer something special. Gambia’s smiling coast is no exception. The people are amongst the friendliest in the world. Located on the West African coast, The Gambia is almost entirely surrounded by French speaking Senegal, except for the coastal region. Gambia’s official language though is English, the country being a former British colony. The country gained independence on February 18 1965.

Historically The Gambia consisted of many tribes. Tribal people belonging to the Serer, Serahule, Jola, Fula, Mandinka and Wolof language groupings could be found throughout what we now call The Gambia at various periods during pre-colonial times. Some of these language groups had kings who established different states on the north and south banks of the river. Prior to the establishment of a British colony, the various kings were approached by representatives of England for permission to settle. The British merchants provided spices, rum, iron, tobacco, guns, gunpowder, corals, etc. in exchange for elephant tusks, bees wax, hides, timber, bullock horns and gold. It was a mutually beneficial trade, a sort of treaty between the acting Governor and the king of Kantalikunda in which it was understood between the people of England and the people of Kantalikunda that they trade together innocently, justly, kindly and usefully.

This was a subtle stepping stone to eventual colonialism. The year was 1816. By 1823, the next stage was reached. An allotment was granted on MacCarthy Island by the King of Lower Niani, and in 1826 and 1829 further allotments were granted in the Niumi and Fatatenda areas. The Imperial Act of 1843 was established to enable the British monarch to set up a government to govern the settlements. These settlements were to serve as the springboard to take full control of The Gambia.

Later in the 19^th century wars were waged for long periods between various groups and when most of the strong states had been devastated, the administrator of the British settlements established a law in 1894 called Protectorate Ordinance to prepare the ground for complete colonial domination. Colonialism was opposed to democracy. It stood for subjugation. Years of such suppression followed, but in 1920, change was on the horizon toward self-determination. The pioneer of this struggle was Edward Francis Small. He realised that organisation and enlightenment are the tools of national liberation. It took ten years of discussions, fights and strikes before bearing fruit, but in 1930, the first representative institution was established called the Bathurst Urban District Council and Board of Health.

During the 1940’s, calls for changes to the political system were either dismissed or totally rejected. In the 1950’s however, political parties emerged. Between 1951 and 1954 the Democratic Party led by J.C. Faye, The Muslim Congress led by Ibrahima Garba Jahumpa and United Party led by P. S. Njie were formed.

The movement towards independence could not be stopped. The Protectorate People's Party was formed in 1959. In 1963 Internal Self Government was introduced. Gambia then had a Prime Minister. The Crown still retained the Sovereign power to determine the external relations of the country. By 1964, a Constitutional Conference was called and in 1965 the independence constitution came into being. In the years since, there have only been two leaders in the country. The current leader, Yaya Jammeh, has ruled since the early 1990’s.

The Gambia in the 21^st century…

Today, the country is one of the more peaceful on the continent of Africa. The phrase ‘smiling coast’ says it all. The total land area of The Gambia is only 11,295 sq km. Within the country, whose coastline incidentally is only 45 kilometres in length are a few tiny gems, little locations with a lot to offer. Some are upriver, but the majority of these highlights are along the coast.

Once you leave the hectic capital of Banjul, your choices are varied. Up river you’ll discover hippos, crocodiles, chimpanzees on Baboon Island, and also the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau which have been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old. Upriver too are areas of beautiful gallery forest along the banks of the river itself. Getting to these more remote regions by road is a bit of an arduous journey, the roads being of poor quality, but going by boat allows you to relax and do the voyage slowly.

The bird-watching highlight is MacCarthy Island where you’re likely to see parakeets, kingfishers, eagles and owls amongst many others.

If you venture inland to the town of Brikama you’ll come into contact with a more legitimate Gambian experience, the highlight of which is the bustling marketplace. The place here to stay is Hotel Nematulie where you’ll find twenty small cottages situated in a garden of orange trees. Your host will be the chief of Brikama, Alhadyi Bakari Dembo Santang Bojung, a delightful well travelled man who, together with his family, will really look after you. The hotel’s phone number is 9927828 and it’s located on Kabba Badjo Road, a five minute walk from the market. Rooms start at 250 dalasis.

It’s the coast though where you’ll find the real gems of the country. Away from the 5 star resorts around Bakau and Senegambia, and the continual presence of the pestering ‘bumsters’, you’ll discover partly hidden bays and coves where everything is fresh - the ocean breeze, the pineapple, pawpaw and of course the many varieties of fish.

One such place is Tanji. There are a number of places to stay in the town itself including Nyanya’s Lodge right on the beach, and The Paradise Inn Hotel behind town, but the pick of them is the Tanji Museum just outside town toward Sanyang. Traditional huts are sprinkled throughout the garden beyond a fascinating museum run by Bayo Abdoulie, the former curator of the National Museum of Gambia where he worked for 19 years before taking an early retirement in 1997 to fulfil his dream of setting up his own museum. Complete with a botanic garden and a museum of natural history and arts & crafts of The Gambia, he also built a conference centre and six huts to accommodate guests. More are planned for the future. As well there is a restaurant specialising in local Gambian food. From its top floor, there is a view of the ocean. Museum entrance fees are 100 dalasis per person and if in a group, the price is reduced to 50. Beds are 250 dalasis per person and include a simple breakfast. Tel: 220-371007 or 220-926618.

Nearby Paradise Beach is the closest swimming area, a short twenty minute walk through the fields. At the beach there are several craft shops and small restaurants.

Another of the gems of this West African paradise is the fishing village of Gunjur, where the highlight is the regular possibility of body-surfing the small waves. This is the biggest fishing village on the coast and there are 363 registered fishing vessels here.

The place to stay is the spacious and friendly Gunjur Beach Lodge. Since January 2006, a new Dutch owner, Nolleke Bekkering from Amsterdam, has taken over with plans for some fun improvements like beach-volleyball and market stalls in the garden for the locals to promote their wares.

The restaurant serves exceptional meals inside, outside in the tropical garden or even the few metres distance at the beach. Rooms are large, open and airy…and all have private bathrooms and shaded porches. The beds are the most comfortable I found in the whole country. Tours of the local crocodile farm, snake farm and villages can be arranged through any of the friendly staff. Rooms start at 450 dalasis per night, and this includes a tasty breakfast. Camping under the trees is also possible in this tropical paradise and the cost is 100 dalasis per person, but does not include breakfast. Tel: 220-448 6065 and email: gunjur@gambianet.gm

A little further south is one of Nolleke’s friends, Nina, at the Lemonfish Art Gallery. Wonderful examples of African art are on sale, and the gallery also boasts a guesthouse. It’s located in the village of Kartong and the phone number is 220-439 4586, mobile 9922884 Email: lemonfish@web.de and their website is www.lemonfish.gm

Wherever you plan to stay though, The Gambia offers a truly rewarding holiday experience, one which will probably have you returning to the country and its smiling coast more than once.

Thomas Cook Problems

ontheroadandoff — Mon, 6 Feb 2006 01:56:00 GMT

MOROCCO TO ENGLAND…by Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

It’s not every day that a school is named in your honour but it happened to me in August of last year (2005), and I was on my way to the Gambian school from Morocco, but going the long way, first to Spain where I’d found a one cent flight with Ryan Air to London, and then for the low price of 70 pounds from London to Banjul, where the school is located.

It was an adventure that was memorable for all the wrong reasons. Firstly I headed off on the long trip from Marrakech to London by catching the train to Meknes and Fes in northern Morocco. The train trip was wonderful with typically warm Moroccan people sharing my compartment. I spent a few days in both Meknes and Fez, even had a day of skiing in Michliffen. Then I caught a coach to Jerez in Spain, but not before a strange crossing on the ferry to Algericas.

Boarding was tedious as the design of both the customs area and the ship itself left a lot to be desired. The long queues and small entrances incapable of allowing large numbers to efficiently get through were annoying. After a three hour process, we were on our way.

It’s amusing to watch people in the first stages of a rough sea, how they all laugh and think it’s funny the difficulty they have in walking and so on. I knew, having heard the weather report, that some of these happy souls wouldn’t be happy for long. Sure enough as the journey progressed and the seas became rough, the passengers changed colour and began throwing up all over the place. I have never been on a boat anywhere and experienced such quantities of human vomit. I feel I’ve now stood the test of sea-sickness. After an hour or so of the planned three hour trip, I felt fine, so I went to the restaurant and ordered a fish and vegetable dinner. Within a few seconds of the waiter having left, a man just a few metres from me threw up in such a violent manner, that I was forced to move to another table. I’d already chosen a table close to the bow, but on the port side, and so I moved to starboard. He threw up noisily again and again, but I persevered, trying to concentrate on my book and read a chapter while my fish was cooking. The seas got huge. We crashed down off the waves violently, making the whole ship shudder. One small boy was crying with fear and I remembered myself as a kid on my father’s boat. This was becoming a real test. My meal arrived and I must say it was lovely. Never before have I endured eating a meal with a cacophony of people vomiting at the rate of more than one a minute. Why in the restaurant I wondered. Later I was to discover the obvious. Nowhere on the entire ship was exempt from this human failure. I dare say that some on board were thinking the ship might sink, the sea was so rough…that we might go completely under on one of the roller coaster waves. Personally I loved it! At one stage the sounds from the galley were like 10 supermarket trolleys all rolling together across the floor and crashing. I had to be careful not to jab my cheek with my fork as the ship rocked and rolled. At the end of my meal, one wave was so big that my cutlery slid off my plate and I had to hold on tight so as not to slide myself.

I had been the only one eating in the restaurant. There were quite a few people there, mostly on the floor trying to sleep, some moaning, others crying, a dozen or so vomiting. I think the chef was happy that I’d eaten and kept the meal down. His smile said more than the usual.

We arrived at the port of Algericas at 11pm local time, and tried to disembark. The same problem of bad ship design made it a slow process. There were puddles of spew everywhere, carpeted spew, spew in plastic bags, seats full of spew, and I will not describe the toilets. It left an enduring impression.

In light drizzle I boarded the bus to Jerez, arriving there at 2.30 am. It was a very sleepy place, but as I’d made a note of a cheapish hotel from an internet search the previous day, I headed there, booked in, and had a good sleep.

My one cent Ryan Air flight the next day was fine, but it delivered me to England where my problems were only just beginning.

I slept on the airport floor in Stansted and caught the airport shuttle bus to Gatwick the following morning. The Guest-house I chose was The Masslink. My room had such an odour of cigarettes that I chose to ask if there was possibly another room available. I received one of the common replies one gets in England, a rude sort of ‘who cares-I certainly don’t’ type answer. Simply…’no, we’ve only got two single rooms.’ Obviously the woman didn’t realise that she hadn’t answered my question. Still I knew I was stuck with the smells. Six hours of window ventilation did nothing to improve it.

In my 30 hours in the UK, some might think I wouldn’t be a good judge of the place, but some years ago I had lived in London for a year, and had travelled a fair amount around both England and Wales. If the smelly guest-house was my only problem, I would not have even mentioned it here, but what happened the next day will remain with me for the rest of my life.

I had booked a ticket on the internet with www.airflightsdirect.co.uk an agent of the dubious Thomas Cook organisation. I arrived to check in to my flight early, but was told upon handing over my ticket that I might need a return ticket in order to get on the plane. I stated that I wasn’t coming back to the UK. ‘I’m an Aussie,’ I told the lady. ‘I’m heading deeper into Africa and plan to return on another route altogether.’ She then said that she’d check with her supervisor, but not to worry - Thomas Cook write bogus tickets for people in my situation who are sometimes asked to prove they can afford to get out of countries once they arrive. She’d sort it out. She did not!

I was advised to go quickly to the Thomas Cook desk and ask if they could write the bogus return ticket. I hastily fought my way through the crowd to the Thomas Cook desk, where again I was told, ‘yes it’s a possibility to have us write a false ticket for you. I’ll check with my supervisor’. Time dragged on. The computer was not working at its normal capacity and check-in was about to close. No worries I thought. I’ve already got my boarding pass. My luggage has gone. All I have to do is get this damn false ticket. It was not forthcoming. Firstly the supervisor, due to a change in the rules which had occurred since I booked my ticket, was reluctant to do what they used to do and have her staff issue the bogus flight details on a falsified ticket.

At the suggestion of one of the staff that I make haste and get to the boarding area, I did so, but I shouldn’t have taken her advice. I got right to the plane and wasn’t allowed on. Marched back through customs, I felt somewhat like a criminal and remember this should have been one of the best days of my life. A school had been named after me, and I was going to The Gambia to check it out, and present the headmaster with funds I’d raised in Germany, Italy and Australia and also to give the kids some gifts I was carrying.

Instead, I was being marshalled back through immigration to face my fate at the hands of those Thomas Cook people. My flight left without me. The next 9 hours was spent trying to get answers from some of the most unhelpful travel advisory staff I’ve encountered in 30 years of travel. This current trip is a two year adventure. I’m about 20 months into it, and it may go longer than the planned two years. I’ve travelled with ‘round the world tickets, return tickets, but more often than not, a simple one-way ticket, as was the case on this trip.

If I’m asked to prove I can support myself or to purchase a return ticket, I show my three credit cards. This time, I also had a bank statement showing I had plenty of readily available cash. Not good enough!

No-one could reply in all my time at Gatwick airport as to why I had been first given a boarding pass, and then refused travel at the last moment. I like to look upon such events as having a meaning, to turn bad luck into good, but at the time it was hard to do so. Maybe I was going to break a leg getting on the plane, perhaps I was going to experience a problem even worse, and some other force was looking after me.

Two people in my day of misfortune were positive. One was Mary, the lady at the Information desk at the South Terminal at Gatwick. I thank you for your support and the phone line you arranged for me to use for about half of the nine hours I spent trying to sort the mess out.

Another was Colin Gill, the manager of Airflights Direct who, at the very end of my ordeal, was at least going to try to sort the problem out on my behalf with Thomas Cook.

I’d phoned the consumer watchdog and the BBC who offered me an interview and took preliminary notes. I didn’t call them back for the interview they offered because I felt it could well hinder my approach to get a successful outcome.

I then escaped the UK and came to The Netherlands where I know the people are more civilised and there is a travel agent who has much the same price for my requested journey.

My advice to others who are contemplating travel with even the so-called reputable companies, is to be very sure you are going to be able to fly if you decide to do so on a one-way ticket. Perhaps even get it in writing. Nothing is a certainty in this strange new world. Not even a boarding pass! Be careful! Especially with Thomas Cook.

Gallery: Morocco

ontheroadandoff — Thu, 19 Jan 2006 03:09:00 GMT

Marrakech and beyond

Morocco

ontheroadandoff — Thu, 19 Jan 2006 03:07:00 GMT

MOROCCO…Copyright Geof Prigge

geofprigge@yahoo.com.au

www.geofprigge.com

Morocco is a land of incredible contrasts. Many visitors arrive thinking the whole country is desert, but that’s far from the reality of the place. The gardens and fruit-growing areas of the north are rich and fertile as are many other regions throughout the country. Orange trees line the streets of almost every town and city. In the east and the south you get the traditional desert look – dry, barren and near lifeless, but never completely so. There’s always life in a desert. And then there’s the Atlas Mountain Range overlooking the vast plains and for much of the year covered in snow.

Morocco even boasts two ski resorts…Oukaimeden near Marrakech and Mischliffen near Fez. Mischliffen (2036m) is the smaller of the two resorts with just two pomas and a few limited runs. There’s only one place to stay if you decide to spend time on the mountain but the family run Hotel Aghlias is quite a pleasant place to spend some time. Every room has wonderful views of the ski area and most have private balconies. There’s a restaurant and bar with friendly staff and even a swimming pool, but it’s empty during the winter months because it’s uncovered and unheated. Rooms cost around the 400 dirham mark and are large and comfortable. The heating isn’t what you might expect for a ski resort, due to lots of reasons. They have no double glazing, curtains or carpets and the heating is inadequate for the large cold tiled areas.

Tel: 212 (0)5556 0492 and email: bouzianezohra@hotmail.com

Ski rental and lift charges are cheap. Expect to pay around 15 euros a day for an entire outfit plus ski pass. If you’re an experienced skier however, one day will be enough. The resort at Oukaimeden is superior.

The towns and cities of Morocco vary just like anywhere else. Rabat, the capital is a pleasant small city with gardens and lots of the consulates. Casablanca has only its name to make it sound romantic. It’s only claim to fame is Le Grande Mosque. Meknes and Fez in the north are also worth visiting but not necessarily for their beauty. Meknes is just a modern city, the highlights of which are tucked away in the medina, the old part of town.

They say it’s an irresistible city. It’s worth visiting but only for a day or two. The highlights of the town are Bab Mansour, the oldest city gate in all of Africa. Beyond is the dream of Moulay Ismail, a sultan who in the 17^th century over a period of fifty years transformed the area into an imperial city where even the ruins are impressive. There’s a palace, two mosques and twenty pavilions as well as a vast area of stables able to house 12,000 horses.

Accommodation ranges from the cheap 40 or so dirham in the vicinity of the medina to a 100 or so dirham in the new city for a single with shared bathroom. Those around the medina are a bit rough. Then of course there are the usual 5 star places. The pick of the bunch at the cheap end is The Majestic Hotel. It’s about a one minute walk from the train station in the new part of town. The cost is 130 dirham per room per night with a shared bathroom and 220 if you want a private one.

Fez is a colourful city with an enormous medina area. The touts are a bit persistent here. Accommodation varies again from the cheap 40 dirham mark in the medina to the 90 dirham mark for the Hotel Royal in the new part of town. For 300 to 450 dirham, the Hotel Ibis right beside the train station can’t be beaten.

Tangiers is simply an overcrowded seaside city. The hills near the coast where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic meet are the best part of the place.

Erfoud is a delightful point from which to embark on a journey into the desert. Sleeping overnight under the stars is a popular choice, as is sand-boarding and camel riding but there’s a lot more to do out there.

Essaouira and Agadir are worlds apart. Essaouira is a delightful fishing town with a developing tourist industry, a bit more tasteful than Agadir which resembles the Riviera at its worst. For a truly memorable experience, combine a walk around the port of Essaouira, followed by dinner at the French run Les Chandeliers and then visit Mogador Furniture for some of the most unusual household items in all of Morocco.

Sidi Ifni in the south is laid back and apart from the plastic rubbish all over the place, is quite pretty. And it’s where the surf picks up, so surfers from all over the world converge on this stretch of coast south of Agadir and into the Sahara region. Tafraout and Tiznit are just inland towns where it’s hard to find beauty on every corner. Each though has its own charm and is a good place to visit for a short period if you’ve got the time.

Marrakech on the other hand is a thriving mix of centuries of culture, spectacular architecture and a souk and medina larger than any other in Africa. It’s hard to put into words the feeling one gets here in this great city.

Again the contrasts are everywhere…from the impressive 5 star hotels and government buildings, new apartment blocks that seem to be springing up all over the place to the labyrinth of back streets and alleyways in the old part of town. It is here that you feel the true Morocco, the aromas of spices and the spectacle of a million olives lined up in dozens of stalls. Impressive is not the word. There’s dozens of all varieties of stalls and shops, streets full of shoe shops, leather, clothing, lamps, carpets, meat, vegies, silver and gold jewellery. And there’s a lot more. Open-air restaurants all year round selling beautifully displayed and freshly cooked foods, street vendors selling anything from individual cigarettes to cups of water, packets of tissues, and again clothing by the tonne. There are shoe shine boys on every corner and the horse-drawn buggies that transport people all over the city are beautiful.

There’s an entire area of the market devoted to mobile stalls selling freshly squeezed orange juice. It’s colourful, vibrant and friendly.

But there’s a downside. Beggars are everywhere. It’s a strange sight to see a group of tourists leave their table in the open-air market, and immediately have the street people move in for the scraps. And continually throughout your day, people ask for a single dirham, the equivalent of 10 euro cents.

There is also a problem with drainage in many Moroccan towns and cities. The Romans could get it right three thousand years ago. The Moroccans can’t today. Even in the grounds of Club Med, the water forms in puddles from poorly laid pavers. Outside in the streets after even the gentlest of rain, the puddles are lakes.

Still though Marrakech, and in fact much of Morocco is a totally enchanting place, where the aromas of freshly cooked fish and spices mix with the tantalising music from the street musicians and snake charmers. In the Place Jamaa El Fna, there is a wide assortment of buskers, fortune tellers, magicians and just men who engage the crowd in deep and involved conversation.

One of the most interesting acts is of Mustafa the Magician, a young up-and-coming magician who is occasionally joined by members of his family. From the reaction of the crowd, his act continually pleases from one moment to the next.

Without a doubt, the friendliest group for travel arrangements throughout Morocco is the Sahara Expedition company located in Marrakech. Their email address is saharaexpe@menara.ma and their website is www.saharaexpe.ma

Accommodation varies from the 5 star hotels to the tiny no-stars-at-all type places, but even these offer hot showers, clean sheets and friendly service. One of the best is Hotel Imouzzer, located near the Place Jamaa El Fna just off Bab Agnaou. Tel: 212-44-445336, email: hotel_imozzer@yahoo.fr and website: www.hotel-imouzzer.com

Morocco is a fantastic place to visit in any season, the highlight of which for me is always Marrakech. It can get cold and a little unpleasant in the winter months around January and February especially when it rains, but otherwise it’s a delightful destination in northern Africa.

Gallery: Nepal

ontheroadandoff — Sun, 15 Jan 2006 03:45:00 GMT

General