So… here I
am in India
again, a year after the moment I was looking forward to get out of this country
feeling something inexplicable. I hated India! No, I loved India! Really?!!
I couldn’t decide which one... I’d never felt that way before. I was completely
shaken. I was fascinated, but also very confused because the feeling was so
intense and mixed and definitely unknown to me… I lovehated India!!!
Why? How
was it possible? Was it the effect of the emotional roller coaster I’d gone
through with its unthinkable swing between extremes like being treated as a queen
and as a piece of shit (not cow shit though!!!) on the very same day? Tough! Was
it because my most basic concepts about life were challenged when they met “the
Indian culture” in reality and then proven to be right by the very same culture?
Paradox?! Was it me? The encounters I’d had here changed my life irreversibly
and made me unsettled. I'd met my Karma and it felt like a spell over
me. Shittttt!
In search
of answers I’m going back to India
for another 6 months. Let’s see what happens now…
A typical
day of a foreigner in India: I was woken up by some unbearable noise in which,
when I slowly came into my senses, could recognize 1) the hoarse voice of the
lady owner of the guesthouse; 2) the barking of her pet dog; 3) the dreadful
jangling of an unknown object on the staircase; 4) the usual chaos in the
street, which itself was a unique mixture of various sounds… not the best way
to start the new day, but who knows, the end might be much more pleasant.
Breakfast –
chai (I love it!) and some sweet crackers, which Indians dip in it, bought from
a street stall. A conversation with the boy seller while sitting on the
pavement, the usual questions: Where are you from? Are you in India for the
first time? Are you married? Why not? What are you looking for here? They all
know that if you aren’t a typical tourist (and they find it out very quickly
because I can speak Hindi a bit and by some other signs that give me away), you
are looking for something in India.
True!
A walk on
the main street can easily turn into an adventure of a striking kind cause
immediately all of your senses are ruthlessly attacked and you feel completely
overwhelmed and stunned by this extraordinary feeling. Everything happens in
such a crazy hectic pace and simultaneously on top of that and you really need
to be a superhero so that you don’t stumble in the crawling crippled beggar;
avoid the cow dung mixed with mud, dust, sand, and other unimaginable
ingredients of the newly appeared putrefying rubbish (the old one already
burned at night); suppress the increasing nausea caused by the specific bunch
of exotic oriental spices in combination with odours among which prevails the
distinct sub note of urine; protect your eyes from the vivid colourful tide
which threatens to wash over you from the clothes of the passers by, the
countless stalls, and even from your plate in the restaurant (food in India is
colourful too); while trying also to train your tongue to accept and get used
to the pungent taste of the local delicacies; making your way through hundreds
of sweating bodies, many of which touch you on purpose or by accident; only to
hear “Namaste ma’am! Please, come in my shop” said 20 times in the 200 meters
you’ve just managed to surmount…
… But this
was in another life, a year ago, and it’d been so unforgettable between then
and now that it became a part of me. I didn’t pay attention to these happenings
anymore because I knew what was the most fascinating of all – people who lived
here. I was going to meet one of them in the evening.
What I’d
known about Ashutosh Anand was that he was a 23-year-old student and an active
CouchSurfing member and I was going to stay with him for a few days. What I
found out when we met was that I’d known him all my life. I’d known his eyes,
I’d seen them before… and he didn’t look like an Indian at all! Crazy
hairstyle, piercings, trousers worn by the tourists only. This guy felt like an
alien in his own country and I felt India like home…
The
connection between us was so immediate: on the second day he said: “If I were a
girl, I would be Tania!” A few words exchanged and we knew we’d had similar
experiences in our lives so far, we had the same mindset, we used the same
words to express our ideas and visions about life, we were just as one… and we
were experiencing a true miracle – a meeting between soulmates! Since I’d
already experienced it before (yes, in India again), I knew it’d teach me
something. This time it was about happiness...
A few weeks
later, “My Bar” in Pahar Ganj, New Delhi, at one of our already regular
meetings:
Ashu: I’m
thinking of getting a tattoo.
Tania: What
do you want it to be?
A: I
haven’t decided yet, but I’d like it to express happiness.
T: Hmm,
interesting… how can be happiness expressed in a small picture? Which is the symbol
of happiness for you?
A: Maybe… a
smiling heart???
T: Oh!!!
(as a revelation came to me)… That’s right!... of course!!!... True happiness
is when you smile with your heart…
… and
thanks to Ashu I knew how it felt! All the answers found!!!
Now I only love India. The part with “hate” in the
patchwork verb I used before disappeared like the mist I associated with Maya.
I got rid of them both! My life has
changed once again and this time it feels so great! I am free from the spell…
and I smile with my heart.