The train ride to Xining, the capital of
Qinghai Province, was quite informative as we met these 2 local people who both
gave their tips so willingly. But as a matter of fact, the general rule regarding
the best advice you should take for any sort of trip you are about to undertake
applies, which is to experience it yourself and form your own judgment. Their
opinions, like those posted online by many others coming back from the lake,
differed so much and even contradicted, well at least in some cases.
But still, there are facts that could never
be misleading. The first night at the youth hostel in Xining was amazingly
COOL, though the snoring made by Mum was HOT; high latitude of the area ensures
a sharp temperature difference between the daytime and night, which is
something of a luxury for people like us from the southwest where the air in
summer can be unbearable even indoor; local yoghurt tastes a little bit sweeter
than almost most brands available here in my city but it seems okay to
me; the ultraviolet radiation left souvenirs on our forearms as well as on our
faces…
Then came the magnificent lake in a
breath-taking setting of open air. I’ve seen countless pictures and read various
articles online about how people are overwhelmed by its serenity and vastness
and told myself not to act as the common kind but remain self-possessed with
well-measured admiration. Then all of these premeditations gave way to exclamation
as the coach took us closer and closer towards an expanse of turquoise blue. We
got off the coach and found ourselves standing along National Highway 109, with
pastures extending on our left and the Lake on our right. Mr. Zhou, owner of
one of the many youth hostels along our route, welcomed us into his guesthouse
and there we had a rest of about 30 minutes, selecting bicycles for the whole
day’s riding journey along the lake. Then off we went, with backpacks and a devout
mind.
It’s nothing like cycling to work or
getting about the city in low lands. We had been going for only about 2 hours and
half now and were already soaked up. When we actually got to the part where we
could crash the gate and went all the way to the lakeside, I was all sleeves
up, which later I found out was a big mistake. But the lake and sky in a whole
picture was something to remember. Some indigenous people were roping up their
horses and trying to almost stuff the ropes into the hands of tourists, for a
charge of RMB20/hour horseback riding along the lake. Antonio and I were really
into it and in a minute we were screaming and waving and Mum voluntarily assumed
the post of photographer. The pictures came out really funny as if we had been
medically examined and even the horse…only parts of the human and animal body
were framed, my chest, Antonio’s forearms, the horse’s butt, and in one or two
pictures we only had several faces we didn’t recognize.
We spent
the night at a hostel at the lakeside and after a self-cooked dinner with the
friendly owner we all went out to see the lake at sunset. Air cooled down fast
as the night fell. We were soon inside but the daytime riding thing really took
a lot out of us and we three didn’t have trouble falling asleep and the snoring
was not a problem to me at all. The next day we had decided to go and see Mt.
Qilian in stead of Gui De as pneumonic plague was reported in this area the day
we arrived. People we met on the way kept telling us it was a bit late to see
the rape flowers but we still need to find out.