Levuka, a lovely town on Ovalau Island, has become our favorite place in Fiji thus far. The spirit of the town is authentic, lively and filled with genuinely friendly people enjoying a simple life in a far less touristy part of Fiji. The journey there is not easy, but worth it. We took a small boat from Nananu-i-Ra to Ellington Wharf, then a shuttle back to RakiRaki where we caught a bus that continued Southeast on the Kings Road for 4 hours. (This road, which is really more like a track, is most certainly NOT fit for a King!) The bus ride takes 4 hours because of the absolute horrible road conditions. It is quite amazing that the buses are able to make it through the dirt, mud, and loads of potholes that make up the so-called road. Riding on the bus was a bit hair-raising at times with the width of the bus being wider than many of the rickety bridges we had to cross, but we eventually arrived safely at Natovi landing. Dirt encrusted from the ride, we took a ferry to Ovalau Island and once there, road the bus for another 40 minutes to Levuka.
Levuka has one main street (ironically named 'Beach street' even though there is no beach in sight) that is lined with false-fronted wooden buildings with covered walkways. There are several pool halls, a few restaurants, and numerous shops selling everything but the kitchen sink, many of which appear to have changed very little since the late 1800's when Levuka was really thriving. We made our home at the Royal Hotel, the oldest hotel in Fiji and felt as though we had slipped back in time. Our days passed quite quickly as we spent most of our time strolling around town, biking a bit, and talking with the locals.