Oh my goodness. We have now eaten at the 2 Chinese (or Oriental as one is termed) restaurants within 50 metres of our apartment. I think they are the only 2 in town though – this must be Chinatown then!
Outstanding! We loooooved both nights and they came in only 2 euros different in costs, which was an average of 42 euros or $73 which isn’t bad at all. We couldn’t get out of our Vietnamese in Victoria Street for less than $70. However that rotten aussie dollar is letting us down a bit now so things are getting more expensive. Brendan is in his element as you can imagine so I bet we’ll see the inside of at least one of them again before we go. Are staying the extra 2 nights we had free here in our apartment – lazy buggers. So due to weather forecasts being rainy (have you heard about the floods in England?) we are not taking day trips to Biarritz at this stage. Maybe later when we intend to do Provence and Lourdes in the last leg. I’m sure you’re all really interested in that too, while you’re suffering away in sub standard temperates and without little tapas snacks everywhere you go!
As we’ve been really lazy and not doing much other than wandering around, jogging, eating, drinking, window shopping and reading, I haven’t got much to tell. But there are a few interesting things we’ve noticed which I’ll go through and a wild experience with the San Sebastian Smackers as we call them.
Yesterday we walked in to the old town in between rain showers and heard a commotion up ahead. We walked into a strange experience. There were about 10 characters that were basically people dressed up with huge paper machet heads. There were men, ladies, pirates, chefs and all sorts. (see new photos in San Seb folder) They were being taunted by children and chasing them with a plastic half full of air balloon type thing on a rope. When they caught a child, they bashed them really hard with this balloon and it made a hell of a smacking sound. Didn’t seem to hurt the children though, they cringed and kept running and taunting. These characters walked through the crowd smacking everyone in their path. Sienna was fascinated but scared and got daddy to follow from afar watching and Mikeala jumped all the way up to my head, dug her fingernails in me and screamed and wailed as we watched and kept a pheripheral distance. We tried to stay back and circled but there were a lot to keep an eye on in all directions. Some got close but with the sound of her screams I don’t think they would have dared. The older kids absolutely love it and they even smack tiny kids so as much as it’s noisy it doesn’t hurt. One finally caught up with Sienna and dad and asked S for a high five. She was too scared to give one, so the creature smacked her twice. Needless to say she cried and ran away and won’t go back. She keeps asking me a day later whether the smackers go anywhere else and where they live and if they will come out again etc. I told her it was good luck to get smacked and that it must mean she’s due yet another icecream. New nightmare material. There were also some huge (and I mean huge) figures on stilts doing a parade. The city is mental at the moment as today is the final rowing boat race for the year. People everywhere and live bands and food and more and more stuff. Hopefully no smackers as we make our way into the fray later.
Now, some notes on San Sebastian (they don’t like to be called Spanish, as they are Basque up here, which is half French and half Spanish).
1. They are arrogant (see above) and after 5 visits our local barman is only now starting to smile.
2. They ignore you. B has injured his shoulder and they ignored him for the 3 hours he was waiting in hospital emergency dept. He was Soooooo angry when he stormed out, gave up and came home (went to see a chiro/physio and is getting better now).
3. Everyone has a baby. Every young couple, every grandma and granddad. They’re all pushing new babies. And the babies are so dressed up and so are their prams. Over the top! Everyone is cooing and caaing.
4. There are soooooo many identical twin sets here it is spooky. I see at least 3 – 4 new sets per day, every single day. B and I point them out and we’re freaked out. I asked someone and they said, yes in San Sebastian there are so many and they don’t know why. I suppose someone is doing a study as it’s ridiculous.
5. They put sooo much salt on their food. Why do they do it? Kate, you’d love it but it’s just too much. When we forget to say “no salt” we’re OK but we keep forgetting. We went to our favourite waterside port restaurant for clams and fish last night and forgot to say. Aaaaaaahhhhhh. Can’t be good for us.
6. They have the best Chinese restaurants – when you remember to say “no salt”.
7. They look after their old people. B reckons most of the population is old here, bit like a Toorak but there seems lots of youngies to me. They are always wheeling them around in wheelchairs and putting them places to see stuff and people. Good family supportive culture.
8. Their bread sucks.
9. Their fruit is the best. Never a bad peach. They are to die for.
10. Siesta time is enough to drive you mad as all the shops close for too long eg. 1.30pm – 4.30pm. When your lazy family only wakes up at 11.30 and then swans around at home for an hour or two you’re stuffed till the late afternoon.
11. Their rose red wine (Rosado) is sooo cheap and so yummy. Only about $5.00 on average a bottle – yippppeee.
12. Everyone smokes. Everywhere, all the time. Even running along the beach. Shopping, eating, drinking, walking. A cigarette is their 5th appendage.
13. They have the most amazing cornichons. U have to eat them while breathing out, cause if you breathe in, you’ll be coughing for 5 minutes. They have also added something to make them super duper crunchy. Would love to bring some home for certain people who would appreciate.
OK, that’s about it. No more waffling. You get the picture. Luckily the sun’s just come out and my husband and children will be happy again as they want to go play at the beach. It’s been raining a lot. So time to sign off. Will write again from Barcelona – our next stop. Will be there fri night 19th September. Adios Amigos. PS. Have added some more photos under the San Sebastian gallery.
