Train travel in China is much more pleasant when you have the lowest berth. The train from Kunming to Chengdu was not fully booked, which made it an even better experience. I liked having the luxury of stretching out on my narrow bunk. My past experiences taught me that it was best to bring your own food aboard, preferable soup noodles because hot water is in ready supply and it is a satisfying hot meal. I was slurping on my chicken-flavored ramen when I noticed that the passenger in the bunk next to mine had gotten a lot bigger overnight. A mother and son had occupied the lower and middle berths when I first got on and she had eaten quite a bit before bedtime, but not that much. I took a closer look at the passenger’s face and then I realized that the mother and son had disembarked and this other passenger, who looked liked Sammo Hung’s twin sister, had taken her place.
Most of my time was spent curled up in my bunk listening to my I-Pod because I was close to the bathroom and I didn’t want to hear all of the nasal clearing and expectorating noises that were coming from the basin area. I did get the opportunity to admire some of the scenery of the Southern Sichuan province, although it had become overcast. I understand that this is common. The name of the province where I had spent the last two weeks, Yunnan, means literally “South of the Clouds” in Chinese.
It was still cloudy when I reached Chengdu, and a representative from the Mix hostel was there to meet me. I enjoy the challenge of trying to find a place on my own, but my Lonely Planet only covered the Yunnan and I had left that at The Hump. I had no map, so I was happy to get the assistance. It turns out that the cab driver was unfamiliar with this famous backpacker place so the ride to my guesthouse still had a small hunting element to it, and I am proud to say that I was the one to spot The Mix.
I am always curious about the amenities that are supplied by the different Hostels. The Mix supplies toilet paper in the bathrooms and hand soap by the basins where The Hump doesn‘t. BUT, at The Hump, you could get a clean bath towel (provided you were lucky enough to snag one when they put them out) and at The Mix, you have to bring your own or go drip dry. Both supply laundry facilities (10 Yuan/load), free wi-fi and hot water. The Mix was also kind enough to supply me with a free map of Chengdu. So, I was fully rested after a 19-hour train ride and I had a free map of Chengdu. It was time to do some walking.
I have heard a lot of good things about Peter’s Tex-Mex restaurant and it was on the other side of town. So I thought that I would put the Sichuan sampling on hold and go get some enchiladas or some chimichangas. Maybe a margarita. The idea grew more appealing with every step. By the time I arrived, they were already into their Saturday evening rush. I didn’t want a table out in front of the restaurant so I patiently waited ten minutes for a table inside. There were three tables pushed together and I got the middle one. Not a problem. Then another solo diner was told to sit in the chair opposite mine. Wait a minute…. I could see that they were getting busier, but I wasn’t asked if I would share the table I waited for, I was told. That alone is a customer service no-no. They set this male Chinese college student in front of me like it was some sort of bizarre blind date. Now I like to look, but I ain’t no Mrs. Robinson. I don’t even know if he spoke English or not because after about three minutes of looking around the room I caved to the awkward pressure. “I’m sorry,” I said. “This is just too awkward.” I got up and made for the door. I spoke to the lead hostess as I left. I told her that this restaurant charges way too much (at about 30-60 Yuan per entrée, it’s true) to be pulling a stunt like that just because a person decides to dine alone. I don’t even know if she understood me. She just kept repeating, “I am so sorry. I am so sorry.”
I took the bus back to The Mix and I was so busy deciding whether I overreacted or not that I missed my bus stop. Well, I wanted to do some walking. The food at the guesthouse wasn’t Mexican, but it was a lot less expensive and very tasty. It was also a consoling fact that I would be back in the States in a few days and I would be able to gorge myself on good Mexican food.
