I was hoping that my current trip following the Mekong River from Laos to Vietnam would have a bit of a Huck Finn feeling to it. I would like to be able to ride a raft down to the Mekong Delta, but I don’t think that’s very safe. That’s why missing out on the slow boat was such a disappointing experience. I don’t feel so much like Huck Finn in a VIP bus with a complimentary bottle of water and a mass-produced pastry, but I did enjoy watching the scenery go by. Laos has some remarkable vistas. I would have enjoyed them even more if I had been able to see them clearly, but there was some burn-off activity. I don’t know why they set those fires, but it makes everything so hazy. How does charring the landscape help these people? I also enjoyed riding through these small villages that were merely wide spots in the road. It is a hoot to see these traditional, woven-reed, thatch-style houses with a satellite dish outside. It’s like seeing a woman cooking over a open flame and talking on her mobile phone. The juxtaposition of traditional and modern is mind-boggling, and I do love a good boggling of the mind. Challenge me! Shake up my world views! I can take it.
I was worried that the lodging choices in Vientiane would be more pricey than those in Luang Prabang, but, again, I worried over nothing. With very little effort, I found a hotel that was within my price range and kicked in free wi-fi and breakfast to boot. After settling in at the Douangdeuane Hotel I set out on a mission to get my daily mocha frappe fix, even though it was going on 7:00pm, and I knew that I would be buzzed for several hours. One thing that Laos is not short on is coffee. I have seen Lao coffee advertised everywhere and on the drive into Vientiane, I noticed a number of French bakeries that offer espresso, iced coffee, etc. I found a place called French Bakery Croissant d’Or. If I remember correctly that means golden croissant. There was a fellow sitting out front and I asked if the coffee was any good and he answered in the affirmative. Ten minutes later I was getting my late caffeine fix. The frappe was more expensive than the ones in Luang Prabang, (16000 LAK --almost USD2) but I could tell that the shot of espresso in this drink was good, potent coffee. I was going to be awake for awhile.
The fellow whom I asked about the coffee was still sitting outside when I left. He was studying a guide book and when I passed, he asked in a European accent (maybe French) if I had been in the country for a while. I told him that I hadn’t. His guidebook had mentioned a problem with the mosquitoes in Laos causing malaria, and I told him that I didn’t know anything about it, but I had been to Thailand and hadn’t had any problems there. The caffeine was starting to kick in and I didn’t need anything to worry over. He said that malaria had not been a problem in Thailand, but it was in Laos, particularly in the south. Great, that’s all I need. I have had food poisoning, an ear infection, parasites, a dislocated rib, and a banged up toe on this trip. I need malaria like I need a hole in the head. What was this guy about anyway? Was he really concerned about malaria? If I were any cuter, I would think that he was just trying to chat me up….by talking about malaria….maybe he’s really bad at making small talk….really, really bad…..even though he’s European. Who knows? He picked up on my anxiety and started to apologize for getting me all worried. I told him not to apologize. He has given me something to think about…..for the next several hours, it will probably be all I think about, thanks to the caffeine. He apologized a few more times and I wished him a safe trip as I headed back to my hotel.
