Memories will be made of this.....

The last time i wrote, i was just about to go that morning into Syria. I shared a taxi that would stop off in Jerash and Bosra (in Syria) before heading to Damascus, with a French guy and a Dutch mother and daughter. After spending my first week with a variety of cool and interesting people, it was a bit disappointing to spend time with such boring people (however the mother and daughter did help me out with the money situation quite well, as i couldn't be arsed to get some more Jordanian cash and they had some leftover - otherwise i wouldn't have made it to Jerash!). Jerash is a stunningly preserved ancient Roman cities and even though the driver said we could have two hours there (which when we got there i thought was quite a bit excessive), i could have spent a lot longer there. However, onwards - and finally left Jordan. Not before another border and another brief issue as we had to change money so to leave the country! Once in Syria, it seemed so much greener and that there was more life than in Jordan. Trees, greenery, plants and plantations everywhere and a welcome relief from the barren desert. There was still significant desert, but at least it was broken up slightly! We arrived in Bosra in Southern Syria in the late afternoon. Bosra was one of the original superb-towns in years gone by and in during the 1st century was briefly the capital of the Nabataean kingdom (prior to Petra). Built out of black basalt, it would have been much more impressive if we weren't all so tired, however the camera snapped away happily! Finally arrived in Damascus after far too long a day of being squashed in a service taxi and due to the mother/daughter combo panicking about where to stay, they had booked a hotel near to the old town (but also near to the Syrian cinema....as they kept on pointing out...why!?). As is usually the case, you just seem to stay where you first can and despite it being over-priced and under-friendly, i thought i might as well stay for the night. The whole tackiness of the place made me think that i wanted to get out of Damascus as quickly as possible (as i only had 3 days or so until i had to get to Beirut to meet Kari again). The next morning i took the bus to Hama in Central Syria. Its only about 2 hours on the bus (and it was so nice not to be squashed in a small taxi for once!). Hama has a sad history that in 1982, the previous ruler of Syria killed (through his troops) about 50,000 people for an uprising. Needless to say the Syrian's (no matter how annoyed they are with the government, NEVER will rebel against their leaders). On that note, probably the nastiest looking ruler is the Syrian President and the pictures of him adorn every car, building, important area....you get the picture. Its obviously not out of respect for him, more to have him as an omnipresent type of figure for all to remember. Hama is famous for its Noria's. Noria's are basically massive waterwheels - and there are quite a few of these and something that was so beautiful to see after all the rocks. Hama was just a really nice, friendly town where everybody wanted to speak to you and welcome you for a cup of coffee/humous/dinner. It was strange after all the negativity that Syria receives to feel more welcomed by the locals than in nearly any other country i've ever been to! On my last day before heading to Lebanon, i went to see a few places outside of Hama. Krak des Chevaliers is (apparantly) the finest crusader castle in the world. For me though, it was a step too far in looking at rocks and (despite not paying....i merely walked straight in without realising....the advantages of looking like a local!) i just couldn't appreciate the beauty of it at the time! On the way back, went to see the Beehive Houses, where people still live - it all seemed quite comfortable there and quite a nice place. The people at the Hotel Riad (highly recommended!) were superb and despite the oil prices rising by 300% overnight (with no uprising!), they managed to get me on my way to Lebanon without any problem. Its been strange the last few days, as Syria has been far too easy! All the stories and bad press of Syria seems so richly undeserved and just a welcoming place.