So nothing major today, just a series of small events and observations.
I went to an Orthodox Mass at Mayr Tachkr, the oldest church at Etchmiadzin. Echmiadzin the is Holy See of the Armenian Orthodox Church. The head of the church is His Holiness the Catholicos, Karenkin II. Mary Tachkr is built on top of a pagan altar. I wasn't allowed in to see it when I was here two weeks ago, but I understand that some tour groups get to see it. One theory I read is that when they built Mayr Tachkr, they left the pagan altar just in case "this Christian thing blows over."
The ceremony was beautiful. An incredible choir (one we saw in a DVD with Isabel Bayrakdarian - a Canadian Armenian Opera singer). The sound was stunning. I didn't like it that so many tourists were taking snapshots and videos of the ceremony. I thought it was incredibly rude, but no one enforced the no pictures rule (there were signs) so I guess they don't really care. For me, it was a strange juxtaposition to see people deeply involved in their faith with other people capturing the moment for the folks back home. I don't get it.
Random thought 2. - Mashrutkas. I love taking marshrutkas. They are mini-vans that hold 15 or more people. The seating is tighter than an airplane but once they are full, they just go. The buses are the cheapest way to go, but they stop and pick up people and drop people off so the trip is longer. I took a Marshrutka from Ijevan to Yerevan yesterday - about 90 miles and it cost $4. A bus would be about $1 and a taxi would be about $40. One thing I've learned about marshrutkas is that although they may have an approximate departure time (although I've never seen these times printed anywhere except the Lonely Plant - Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan - they really leave when they are full or nearly full. I had the fortunate chance to be the last passenger on the Dilijan marshrutka. I strolled up, took the last seat and off we went.
Random thought #3 - In my Eastern Armenia language CD's I learned the word "Hamatsainem" which means OK or I Agree. I have never heard this word used, not once. It has been shortened, apparently, to HA. It's not unsual to here someone talking with someone else and say Ha-Ha (pause) Ha-Ha much like the Russian DA-DA. Anyhow, I have a hard time remembering to use this because it sounds like flat or phony laughter. I'm working on it, however.
I believe that the Armenian people are extremely gregarious - that is, they hang out in groups. I see men walking, talking and eating together. Same for women. Men walk arm and arm with each other as do women. And I also see couples walking. But I rarely see a solitary man or woman - there are certainly some but they are greatly outnumbered by couples and groups. Today when I was sitting at a cafe by a pool at the Opera Square, I was just not getting a waiter to come over. And there were one or two groups who came and got tables after me. Finally, one of the owners suggested strongly to the waiter that he come over and see what I would like. After a while it dawned on me, the waiter was waiting for my friends to join me.
Random thought #4 - when I was out in the country (Sisian, Dilijan and Ijevan) there were no gas stations (or Benzene as it's called here). Out there all the vehicles except for diesel truck run on natural gas. It comes from Turkmenistan or Russia and is very much cheaper than benzene. Cars have three or four gas cylinders in their trunks.
Random thought #5 - I'm finally seeing some bicycles. Mostly they are mountain bikes and kids are riding them on the sidewalks - not in the streets. I have not seen one bike in the road. I've seen one scooter. So different than Italy. I don't know if the traffic here is more challenging or if bike riding is just not in the consciousness. On the way back from Echmiadzin, I saw a phalanx of bike riders with riding clothes and helmets on. It was like a mirage. Haven't seen anything like that at all.
Well, enough for now. It's hot and smoky in here and yes, smoke gets in my eyes. Kristina says you all are enjoying this blog and I'm very much enjoying writing it.
Sirem,
Bob
