Compartively flying into Peru was easy coming from Costa Rica, where the winds shake the plane from side to side even on take off!
We spent one night in Lima, Miraflores, before we were due to fly out to Cuzco the next day. Looking down over Lima is crazy maze of industrial blocks and billowing dark smoke. There is brown haze that hangs over the city and a stench that reminds me of rotting possoms (which i've smelt on occasions bush walks in nz).
The next day we were excited to get to Cuzco. The trip is quick ascent up to above the Andes and then likewise a quick descent down into Cuzco. Consequently you're left short of breath and suffering the effects of altitude sickness.
On the way to the airport we'd made friends with an australian couple who shared a taxi with us and that we caught up with that night for a couple of drinks. I'd been feeling ill with the altitude, racing heart, restricted breathing and slowed down thinking, but it seemed the alcohol helped me to feel normal (this is not something that the guide books tell you fixes altitude sickness, but then it did help me).
It took 4 days to come right. In that time we just took it easy exploring the gorgeous city of Cuzco. Cuzco is a city of both colonial and Inca influence. It has an old town, Plaza de Armas and cobble stone streets, and everywhere you look you can see the Andes incasing the city walls.
We spent 2 days traveling to outer Cuzco to visit the archealogical sites, both saksaywaman and the Sacred Valley. Both are amazing for the size of the stones rolled there by the Incas to build their temples and fortresses. The thought and engineering used to create these sites is amazing.
The whole culture itself is amazing as the people are strong in spirit and stick to their roots. In Cuzco you frequently see women and children dressed in their typical costume walking around with a lama for the tourists to take a photo. When you look beyond those people though, you actually see some of the locals dressed similarly with material bags tied on the back and babies hanging out the side of them.
Finally the day had come for the start of the Inca trail. We had been eagerly waiting for this adventure during the whole of our trip! It was a bright and early start when the guide came to pick us up to take us to the bus. We had one hour on the bus cruising the Sacred valley before we got Ollantayamba. We were to have a last bought breakfast out and to have our first breaky with our new adventure team.
There was 1e people in this adventure team, all a mix of different nationalities. The first day of the hike was used as our training day, as it was a relatively short walk (only 12km long) without too much incline. That night we camped at the foot of the Andes cliffs with mules who roamed freely around our tents. We were all presently surprised with the quality of the food made for us.
The porters who ran the majority of the Inca trail were constantly a marvel to us all. Legally they could only carry 25kgs, but in the old days of no rules they would carry up to 6okg each and they would still run the Inca trail!
The next morning we were woken by the 2nd guide and 2 porters who brought us our morning coffee in bed - such service! That day was the beginning of the hardest walk of all. We walked to the highest point at 4200m. My stomach would often feel nautious and both Darren and i were short of breath occasionally, but i'd been instructed to buy coca lollies to combat the effects of altitude sickness and they did work to settle the stomach.
Unfortunately for the rest of the group they seemed to get the worst of altitude sickness. There weren't many that could pass Darren and I. Many suffered from soar knees due to the steep and narrow inca stairs.
Once at the highest point it started to rain and rain and rain. So we spent the next 2 hours walking down the steep stairs soaking wet and feeling very sorry for ourselves. Darren thought he'd rush down, until he slipped on his back and put himself off rushing for the rest of the trip. Luckily he was not hurt because the backpack saved his fall.
That night we were all soggy and damp. Darren had brought a sleeping bag made for summer weather, so was not in the best of moods when he realised he had no dry clothes to layer on for the cold night.
We survived that night though and we were all revived the next day to start again on our longest walk yet at 18kms. Our soggy clothes had not dried much over night, but after an hour or so all of the soggy clothes started to steam and we warmed up in no time.
Having made it almost to the end we were ready to finish. In the last 30 minutes though, we were given the chance to go the short way to find camp or go the long way to see the archaelogical ruins of another trail. So Darren and I felt compelled to take the long route. Lucky we did because it was one of the most profound experiences for us.
One of the biggest complaints on the Inca trail is that there are too many people and you never get a moments peace to yourself. Well Darren and I had this whole trail to ourselves. Then after 20mins we found ourselves at the most massive archaelogical site that we'd seen yet. A fort sprawled the size of a steep cliff ending at the top with palace top architecture.
Darren and I climbed the steep stairs and then sat on the top wall looking down the valley of the cloud covered Andes and the Amazon below. On our way back down to camp I came across a guy who had fallen down 2 flights of Inca stairs and taken off all of the skin on his shins and elbows. He was fortunate to have not broken a bone, let alone not died after that fall.
We were all so happy to have it to camp that we cracked open Inca spirits sold to us before the trail (tastes like aniseed) and had a celebratory shot to warm our bellies. Next thing we know we are all in the bar having a wine and a beer to unwind. That sent us all off to sleepy mood and everyone was back to camp and to sleep.
The next morning was the earliest yet. We were woken up at 4am to get to Machu Picchu before anybody else. I wasn't ready to wake up and i'd pushed myself too much the day before on the long walk that i could've slept all day, but rise we must, so off we went.
We got to the sun temple and unfortunatly couldn't see Machu Picchu from that point. We were all so disappointed but it was all made up for when actually reached the grounds down below. The first half an hour Machu Picchu was clothed in cloud and then miraculously the cloud just disappeared, leaving us with the clearest picture.
The green of the Amazon against the clifftops and the white fluffy mist in the background makes for the most beautiful picture as you stand amongst the ruins.
We were given a 2 hour trek of the wonder of the world. Half way through the tour we saw a lama give birth and then proceeded to see the baby take her first steps. I think it added to whole experience of making the Inca trail and Machu Picchu a very special and enlightening spiritual journey.
