Well, it is so nice to be here, everything is familiar, and some of the locals recognise me from my last visit, nearly 2 years ago now. My hotel is very comfortable, but I only have my room for a week as its fully booked for the next couple of months. Its Pilgrim season, with jeeps loads, and car loads of people from all over India, and various parts of the world, to make the long journey up to the Temples near the Himalayas. There are 4 of them, Bandrinath, Kedranath, Gangotri and Yamunotri,at the source of the respective rivers. So the place is quite buzzy. It is very pleasant to be able to talk to other travellers in English also. A lot of women, and some men, of all ages come here to do the Yoga courses, and Yoga Teacher Training, so we run into each other at the restaurants and tea places. It seems the food at the Ashrams is okay for a few days, but for some variety the local restaurants are an attraction - an escape to meet other less intense people also, I have been told! So I may, or may not book into one for the experience. I am enjoying very much my comfort zone at the moment.
The Ganga is still running quite high from the excessive rains, and instead of its usual turquoise colour is more light brown/blue, but the reflections from the hills around are still beautiful, and there is a feeling of tranquility looking at it.The huge statue of Shiva that sits in the river has been removed until the water level is down. This is where the nightly Aarti, prayers and singing happen on the steps in front of the Parmarth Ashram.
There is a great book shop at Laxman Jula, a 2 kilometre walk along the river and beach, where there are also a couple of nice restaurants. I went with a friend to the German Bakery (they are all over India, but this is a good one), which is perched above the bridge and we sat and looked at the view spread out before us, it is quite beautiful. The temples across the other side of the river look amazing from this view. I am staying in Swagashram because it is quieter and more relaxed, and its nice to be able to do the walk along the river, which actually is 3km from my hotel.
Have made friends with some of the Sadhus, they have a great sense of humour when you get to know them, and some speak reasonable English. My particular friend is called Rajubaba, he is not as old as the others and seems to have adopted me. He draws and paints little pictures in an art book, and gives them away to his friends, so I have one!
Met Dwai and Keiko again here, we had a nice dinner at a little place near my hotel that I found. Its set up Lebanese style, sitting on the floor with cushions and bolsters and nice little hanging lights - and the best food in Rishikesh! They said I always find the good places to eat, and that they kept going back to the one in Delhi where we had dinner. Have met a couple of Australian girls to chat with, and we have chai. My friend from Kanda, Nicki is arriving tomorrow, 14th.
Well, nearly a week has passed, and been filled with yoga, walking, shopping (Nicki) and eating, interspersed with relaxing with a good book. It has been pretty hot here, so nice to not do too much. I asked the local tailor where I had something stitched, what time he would be open the next morning, and his reply (with a smile)- "8.00 till 12, working, 12-1 eating, 1-2 sleeping, 2-3 loving, 3- 8 working" -doesn't sound like a bad lifestyle, does it!
On Friday Nicki and I went with Rajubaba in a share jeep (100 rup up and back) to the Shiva Temple, Neelkanten Mahadevi, 18kms up in the hills. The trip took about an hour, and from the moment we left, we were climbing all the way, initially along the Ganga, and then passing many small villages and farms on the narrow winding road. Lots of landslides had obviously happened here also, but it was a very picturesque trip, with several waterfalls flowing over the road. People use these to wash their cars and jeeps, and often there are several lined up being cleansed of the dust and dirt.
Neelkanten means blue throat. Shiva drank from the poisoned chalice and his throat turned blue, and this is a very important temple for Indian people, who come from all over to worship and receive blessings.Shiva is blue, so easy to spot amongst the many gods! We spent about an hour there, with our little tray of marigold and roses,plus incense to light, water to sprinkle and threads to tie to branches. Combined with the chanting in the background,it was a lovely experience, and it was great having Rajubaba to explain to us what all the little rituals meant.
Went to the beach on the way to Laxman Jhula to sit and meditate, read a bit and generally sit and look at the beautiful scenery, with the Ganga flowing gently by. It is so peaceful here. The sadhus come and do their bathing and chat to each other, its all very relaxed, and the weather has been just beautiful. Have met some really nice people, including Roopali, an Indian lady originally from Gudjarat, but living in Mumbai - she is great fun.
Well, once again Rishikesh has treated me us to a spectacular storm, pink/blue lightning, huge thunderclaps, rain and gale force winds - phew. We were across the other side of the river, so got drenched getting back. We had been taking photos of the beautiful full moon, and soft indigo twilight, went in to have some chai - and who would have thought what we came out to! The strong wind getting up should have given us a bit of a clue, but it was still nice and warm. Went back to my hotel, and half the bed was wet because the windows didn't shut (didn't need to) and the wind and rain appear to have come in horizontally. Spent the night with my scarf tying the windows up trying (in vain)to stop the wind coming through - the window on the other side didn't close either! Have moved hotels twice this week already, one due to construction work outside the window, the other because of noise on the inside, although I would probably have stayed there.
I heard today that the big Shiva statue wasn't taken down because the river rose so high - it was carried away! Apparently it was hollow, with an opening at the back that filled with water, and he didn't stand a chance. But a new one is being installed today, so all will be right with Rishikesh!
Well, have been here nearly 3 weeks now, although I planned to go last week, but wanted to do a Reiki course that wasn't starting till Saturday 23/10. Have spent most of the days just hanging out again, having chai, meeting up with and chatting to people. Did my Reiki course, and am now qualified to practice Reiki 1. Off to Mussourie tomorrow, an easy 2 bus trip.
