Back in internet territory at last. Had long trip from Bageshwar, felt at times that I was going to be stuck there, its so hard to get information about getting away.I was about to get a share jeep for R300 to Haldwani, not looking forward to being jammed in with others for 7 hours or more, when a small car with 3 young guys stopped and asked if I wanted to go to Haldwani. After momentarily considering the risks, but knowing that they were legit, I decided to go, R400. Best decision - had a great trip, wonderful music all the way, the driver looked 18, but may have been 22, and a good driver. After we had been on the road an hour, we were about to go round a really tight (like most of them) bend. There was yet another truck coming down so we pulled to the side to let him pass and suddenly there was a loud bang - he had hit the right front corner and damaged it, but just kept going after stopping for a second. The guys yelled at him, but he just kept right on down the hill- of course the driver was very upset. An hour later 2 young boys came up the road towards us too fast, got stuck in a rut and missed our car by millimetres after almost coming off their bike - whew!
The drive back was even more beautiful than on the way up, because a lot of the harvesting had been done and the colours of the countryside more intense with yellows, golds and greens of the hay in various stages of drying, and the dark green of the trees. Amidst it all the brilliant splashes of colour from the women in their saris threshing and tying the small hay bundles ready for stacking. They place them around either a tree or a very tall solid stakes to make beehive-shape stacks, and the countryside is dotted with these.
We stopped at a small roadside restaurant, and the men who were there were very sweet and really looked after me, and I was able to use a good toilet - these little things matter! Actually the half hour we spent there I will remember a long time. As we climbed up to Ranikhet had great views of the Himalayas, the cloud was just about to enshroud them, as happens around the middle of the day until late afternoon. Still lots of landslides, every corner in some places but they are slowly getting the road better, with lots of people chipping away and shovelling, and the odd earthmoving equipment. Sometimes I looked up at the loose rocks and gravel and willed them to stay up there.
There were some lovely little village high up on the hills as we travelled further south, some even reminded me of Greece, with blue, yellow and white houses and trims, and pots of geraniums and other bright flowers. There is a lot of tropical planting here - bananas, paw paw, guavas etc. We passed a major herbal farm that advertised "you can get your drugs here direct". We then drove straight through for the next 5 hours (we left at 10) stopping only for a quick splash of water and toilet, arriving at Haldwani Bus depot at 5pm.
The trip to Rishikesh was rather interesting. At the depot I was shown where the Government deluxe sleeping bus departed. I looked at it and thought "thats the bus? To Rishikesh - oh my goodness - no grill in the front, and battered panels!" I asked the guy standing outside it when it departed. He said right now, get on! I asked if I had time for the toilet, which was right there, but he said no, leaving now - of course it didn't, but I couldn't risk not being on it. However it did leave 5 minutes later, and off we went slowly through the traffic out of town. After nearly an hour, there was a sudden bang and loud hissing - yes, a puncture! Oh, I hope he manages to get the bus of the railway line we were crossing!! And yes, he did, slowly slowly. Everybody climbed out to see the damage - left front tyre flat as a pancake. Out came the jack, so ancient I couldn't believe it, and the attempts to get the wheel off started. A couple of bricks were place in front of the tyre, and the bus driven onto them - of course they crumbled with all that weight, but were apparently enough to help get the wheel off half an hour later. Then I watched as the driver ran off down the road with the wheel rolling in front of him. Where is he going? Guess what, no spare! I thought maybe he knows there is somewhere he can replace the tyre just around that corner. In the mean time, the police had arrived for traffic control, had put the barriers down for the rail crossing as people were trying to get around the bus from both directions. I could see a nasty accident happening if a train came, so was relieved to see them there. A train did come of course, but then they managed to get most of the long queues moving.
So what was going to happen with our bus? After 45 mins, people were getting onto the conductor man, he was on his mobile I assumed trying to get another bus. After an hour of us being there, a bus stopped - a "real" bus, sleeper and everything, quite luxurious with curtains and layback seats. And it had room on board for us - wow! After the conductor had discussions re extra payment, we climbed on, so thankful (me) for the luxury, wondering how much extra I would have to pay. Well, it was only another 142 rupees. Would have paid 500. I checked it was going to Haridwar (I had been told I would have to change there for Rishikesh)and settled back for the night, estimating it would take another 11 or 12 hours to get there. A while later we stopped at a small town, and I asked if a toilet stop but a young guy said the bus would stop a bit further for that and refreshments (yes, English speaking, such a relief after the week or more without).
So we stopped at 2am for full on food and yes, toilets,thank goodness. I had a chai, and settled back for the next few hours and finally managed to get some real sleep. Until I as woken by the conductor saying "Haridwar, quick". I managed to wake up enough to get my things and get out - it was only 3.55am. The bus went off, and I was the only person to get off, very strange I thought, Haridwar is a major city, and I was not at the city bus stand, but on the main road. There was a bus right there, the guy asked where I was going, and when I said Rishikesh he said yes, and pulled me and my things on and off we raced - literally. Arrived at Rishikesh town at 4.45, I sat at the tea stand and had chai and biscuits till it was daylight enough to get the rickshaw to Ram Jula at nearly 7. I wondered where the bus I was on was actually going, that nobody else got out - was it in fact going direct to Rishikesh? I hadn't mentioned that was my destination on that bus. But they did look like they were more city people, so maybe it was heading to Dehra Dun, the capital of this state. Walked across the Bridge and arrived at my lovely little hotel, (who had sent an email saying they were fully booked - luckily I didn't receive it!- got the last room anyway, had a wonderful shower and sleep ready to start my stay here, and rejuvenate after the last week or two.
